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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Was planning on 120V, now thinking 240V...
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Old 02-13-2012, 06:23 AM   #21
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If going from 3-wire 240V into spa panel as shown would I still get to use 120V off one of the 240V legs like I am now with 4-wire 240V? If so that would be awesome as I built my panel around 4-wire 240V then moved to older apartment where both dryer and range are 3-wire and I'm stuck with running extension cords for pump and power for BCS-460 controller.

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Old 02-13-2012, 06:51 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by kevin509 View Post
If going from 3-wire 240V into spa panel as shown would I still get to use 120V off one of the 240V legs like I am now with 4-wire 240V? If so that would be awesome as I built my panel around 4-wire 240V then moved to older apartment where both dryer and range are 3-wire and I'm stuck with running extension cords for pump and power for BCS-460 controller.
It will work. You will be using an equipment ground as a neutral though. This was allowed in the past as a way around supplying a neutral to 120V control systems in 240V appliances. A bare ground wire is not intended to carry current. If you are using it that way it is "technically" not correct.
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:09 AM   #23
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Well the stuff Home Depot has (Cerro Wire) is only 25A, as is anything McMaster has. But I just found this that is 30A as well as nice and cheap. I'll be going with it.

http://lockingpowercords.com/Products/513-104-soow-wire.aspx
The temperature rating is critical in the ampacity rating. Most wire/cable is rated at 90C. Most connectors and some cable is rated at 75C. Lower temp rating-->lower amp rating. You will be fine using #10 protected at 30A. Derating for length is generally only necessary over 100 feet.
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