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Old 10-20-2011, 11:59 PM   #1
nspaldi0
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Default PJ wiring diagram

Like many here, I've been drooling over the electric systems and want to go route. I am in the process of planning a system exactly like the system at this link http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/brew...27/index2.html. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this? I won't be wiring this because that is a skill I don't have but do have an electrical engineering friend who is happy to wire it for me but I'd like to give him a diagram to go off of.

PJ,
Do you have a diagram already for this?

Thanks for the help! Winter is here and this is my latest project. Still need to finish the keezer top! But it never hurts to have multiple projects!

Nick

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Old 10-21-2011, 01:36 AM   #2
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Nick,

I just saw your post and I'm not seeing any layout for you to wire it. Maybe I didn't dig deep enough?

Please tell me exactly what you want to achieve. With that info I'm sure that I can give you a diagram for setting it up.

P-J

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Old 10-21-2011, 01:59 AM   #3
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From my quick look, he wants a 120V version of this:



(from this post)

He probably meant to link to page one of the thread he linked, not page 2. That system looks like 1 PID, 1 E-Stop, a pump switch and a Heater switch, (no PID switch like you have...dunno how he feels about that bit), PID, pump, and a 2000W element.

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Old 10-21-2011, 02:01 AM   #4
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PJ,

Thanks for the reply. The system in that link is what I want to achieve. It's 120v based with 2 vessels, heat exchanger, 1 pid and one pump. It has 2 switches one for the pump and one for the pid and heating element. On page 2 of that thread, Resslerk posts a picture of his control panel. It's a simple system that I love. Thanks again for any help.

Nick

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Old 10-21-2011, 02:16 AM   #5
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Thanks Shorty. I left out the e-stop in my last post but meant to include it. I assume having separate switches for the PID and element would allow you measure the temperature of wort while chilling. Any other advantages to having a separate switch for PID and element?

Nick

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Old 10-21-2011, 02:19 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nspaldi0 View Post
Thanks Shorty. I left out the e-stop in my last post but meant to include it. I assume having separate switches for the PID and element would allow you measure the temperature of wort while chilling. Any other advantages to having a separate switch for PID and element?

Nick
No other advantages, I suppose, although that's one nice one. I just like having separate switches for each step of the operation, that way nothing happens without my expressly permitting it to happen. For example, you might want to set up your parameters in your PID before you let it fire the element...separate switches allow this.

Plus, flipping switches is fun.
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Aging - None :-(
On tap - Big Dog, Apfelwein, Steppe 112 PA

My invisible AG sculpture, with no actual sculpture and a tiny footprint.
My Kegerator goes offroading!
My Coors Home Draft dispenser for boating/beering on the go.
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Old 10-21-2011, 03:53 AM   #7
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PJ,

So would that diagram work for what I am looking to do? Do you receive PM's?

Nick

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Old 10-22-2011, 06:56 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nspaldi0 View Post
PJ,

So would that diagram work for what I am looking to do? Do you receive PM's?

Nick
Yes I do. I'm still not understanding what you want to achieve. Your referenced thread does not help me either as I have no clue about his wiring.

The referenced diagram posted by shortyjacobs is for a BIAB setup.

Please explain what you want to achieve. Details help.

P-J
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:48 PM   #9
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I think this is what he needs, from studying the other thread....The other thread is a hybrid system with one PID controlling BK element, a pump, E-Stop, and various switches. It runs 120V, 2000W. I modified P-J's diagram, P-J please let me know if I screwed anything up. I'd been considering building something VERY similar to the system in the thread the OP linked, which I think is why I understand what he's asking for...

Just like P-J's pics, click the pic to embiggen.



P-J! One thing I don't know is what resistance the E-Stop button will need to simulate leakage current on a 20A, 120V GCFI....is the 2x 1 kohm, 1W resistor setup still correct?

Edit: Also note that you don't really need the contactor if you go with a different switch....20A, 120V switches are easy to find, so you could skip the relay if desired....

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Primary - Steppe 112 PA, 2x Monday RyePA
Aging - None :-(
On tap - Big Dog, Apfelwein, Steppe 112 PA

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My Coors Home Draft dispenser for boating/beering on the go.
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:00 PM   #10
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shortyjacobs,

Good job modifying the diagram.

My confusion comes with this:

Quote:
It's 120v based with 2 vessels, heat exchanger, 1 pid and one pump.
Two vessels would mean a HLT and a BOIL kettle. (I think) That would mean 2 heating elements that could be switched depending on the task at hand.

Oh well, If it is what you are understanding, The job is done with your diagram.

Thanks for that. Good Job.!!!

I think I'm done (Confused - but done.).

P-J
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