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Old 05-02-2013, 04:45 PM   #11
Chris7687
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Thanks for the advice Kal. I will have to do this next week as I am headed out of town, but I will post my findings.

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Old 05-02-2013, 07:11 PM   #12
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as an aside, someone previously had a very similar sounding issue and had the wrong probe setting (using thermo with pid setting or vice versa). op, verify that your probe type and setting for pid

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Old 05-08-2013, 07:28 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kal View Post
Yup. Sounds like something is set wrong or wired wrong. Could also be something defective.

Try a simple test: Set the PID to AUTO mode and set it to around 100F and try to heat some cold water to that temp. Without having done auto-tuning it should get to that temp and stay pretty close. Auto-tuning just makes it more accurate.

If you go more than a degree or two above (and keep rising) something is not right and odds are that the element is firing continuously.

If the little "OUT" light on the PID is always on once you go past that 100F set point then the problem is in the PID settings, the PID is defective, or you're not actually in AUTO mode (hit the A/M button - the A-M light should be OFF when in AUTO mode).

Check the SSR light. If it doesn't go on/off in unision with the PID "OUT" light but stays on all the time (or is always off) then you've wired incorrectly or the SSR is defective (always on).

Good luck!

Kal
Kal,
When I set my PID to 100, it went to 100 just fine and then shut off. The out light and the SSR light both shut off in unison.

When I went to set the temp to 154 and tried doing the AT set to 2, it ran all the way up to 166 before I shut it off. I am not sure why this keeps happening. Also, when I set it to AT the A/M light didn't flash on and off like you say it does on the Setup page.

Here is a picture of my PID. I had an knowledge electrician/technician help me wire it. The only thing I see funny, which doesn't follow your schematic is the nuetral wire (yellow #9) running to #13.



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Old 05-08-2013, 07:51 PM   #14
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#13 is part of ALARM1. It probably has to do with that. While it's nearly impossible to troubleshoot wiring with pictures, nothing jumps out at me as being incorrect. Without sitting down and playing with it in person, I'm not sure why you're experiencing the issues you are. Sorry.

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Old 05-08-2013, 09:47 PM   #15
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At this point, if you can successfully enter into Autotune mode (AT=2), and the A/M light is not flashing, and the element just stays on, you should probably call Auber.

Is it possible that you aborted the autotune before it finished? Probably not, but since you have already verified that it can heat to 100F and automatically stop, and if you really did get into autotune mode correctly, I cannot think of anything else.

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Old 05-16-2013, 02:43 PM   #16
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Hey guys, got it resolved. Nothing wrong with the wiring. Turns out you can not AT the PID when it is in A-M mode. A-M should be to set to 1, not 0. Setting to 1 means it is unlocked for manual mode, but still in PID mode. AM-0 means controller is in manual mode, there is nothing to tune in manual mode.

Still trying to figure out the percentage to use on manual mode. Made my first beer on the system yesterday and seemed to go perfect. Ended up a little short on the amount of liquid, but that's fine. First time trial and error learning.

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Old 05-16-2013, 04:52 PM   #17
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If you're using a 5500w 240v element, then something around 60-65% will give you a great rolling boil.
If you're using a 4500w 240v element, then it's more like 65-70% for the rolling boil. Experience will teach you.

Glad you figured it out. I was wondering why were trying to tune it in Manual mode.

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