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Old 12-28-2012, 08:29 PM   #1
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Default Parts needed?

Hey guys, I'm putting together a E-HLT and I need help choosing the right size (water heater) element and SSR. I have a 20A 250v outlet on a 20A breaker and nothing else is on the line. I have allready purchased a mypid ta4 controler. Here is a pic of the setup I will be using. Any input is appreciated.

Thanks
Chris

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Old 12-29-2012, 03:09 AM   #2
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Watts / Volts = Amps

3500W / 240 = 14.6 amps
4500W / 240 = 18.8 amps
5500W / 240 = 22.9 amps

assuming you are going to put some sort of selector switch to select only 1 element at a time? 4500 ultra low watt density (ULWD) is your best bet. you can use a contactor to do that but i doubt you'll be able to find a DPDT switch hardcore enough to handle 20 amps of 240v.

i assume that SSR you list is a 25amp based on the part #? if you can, get a higher rated SSR, it'll get less hot as it isn't as close to its limit.

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Old 12-29-2012, 04:53 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slakwhere View Post

assuming you are going to put some sort of selector switch to select only 1 element at a time? 4500 ultra low watt density (ULWD) is your best bet. you can use a contactor to do that but i doubt you'll be able to find a DPDT switch hardcore enough to handle 20 amps of 240v.

i assume that SSR you list is a 25amp based on the part #? if you can, get a higher rated SSR, it'll get less hot as it isn't as close to its limit.
I was not planning on using a selector switch... I was just hoping by using two elements it would use less amps.

So basically I need something under 80% of 20Amps. It does not matter how many elements.

Will a single 3500W / 240 = 14.6 amps element heat up and maintain my HLT to 175 degrees?

And is the bigger the SSR the better? say 40A?
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:00 AM   #4
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Sorry I suck at electrical work, and I have read a weeks worth of sticky's on this lovely forum about E-Brewing and I still need help.

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Old 12-29-2012, 05:49 AM   #5
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you want 1 3500 or 4500 element. remove the second one from the diagram. the 80% rule doesn't apply to you. that's NEC code for circuits at install when other devices may be added to the circuit later.

a 4500W element will do a great job in an electric HLT up to about 15 or 20 gallons.

a 40 amp ssr will stay cooler and last longer than a 20 amp ssr switching a 20 amp circuit.

now, all that being said... if you don't really understand what i posted originally, maybe building your own electric circuit isn't a good idea. water + electric = death. i see no mention of your GFCI protection, no ground anywhere in your diagram. both of those are HUGE issues. proceed with caution.

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Old 12-29-2012, 01:21 PM   #6
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Thanks slakwhere. I was going to look for a GFCI that is built in the power cord or is it better to have a GFCI outlet?

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Old 12-29-2012, 03:10 PM   #7
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Ok here is my revised wiring diagram. Now my question is... can I use a switch like this one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PBC-SS22CPMA.../390143796261?

If I get a relay like this one?

http://www.amazon.com/Packard-C240A-...m_cr_pr_sims_t

And will I need a transformer for the switch?

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Old 12-29-2012, 09:41 PM   #8
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you definitely need a contactor to switch that big of a 240v load. that contactor requires a 24v transformer to trigger.

so you'd go 120v -> transformer -> switch -> contactor coil

240v -> contactor -> SSR in -> SSR out -> element.

you still don't have any grounds listed anywhere in your diagram

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Old 12-29-2012, 11:06 PM   #9
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Can I ground the control box with a post and ground everything to that?

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Old 12-30-2012, 06:03 AM   #10
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Why a 24V coil for the contactor as opposed to a 120V or 240V coil? Do you have a need for a transformer in your control panel?

The switch listed on ebay does not list the voltage (or I missed it).

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