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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Odd GFCI Connections?
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Old 12-23-2010, 01:31 AM   #21
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It's a 40amp. It should work. The challenge with a panel mount breaker floating free in 3rd party box is how to connect the line side conductors, insulate those connections, and ultimately secure it to the panel. I wouldn't say it's impossible, just challenging (and for sure the code nazis would be all over that.

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Old 12-23-2010, 02:20 AM   #22
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Well, this particular multi 9 model would go inside my toolbox controller....properly insulated and most likely epoxied to the floor. Duh, I see now that it's 40A. What I can't figure out...even from the MANUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS, is, "where's the neutral pigtail?" i.e. how will the GFCI work if it is only hooked to both hots? In the 2P configuration, it looks as if both hots are to be connected to the line in, and in the same way the load outs are connected.....so only 4 holes...not 5? Sorry for my ignorance, wasn't aware of this type of breaker.....

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Old 12-23-2010, 02:37 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by ScubaSteve View Post
What about THIS one? Looks like it's a DIN rail mountable breaker without the funky bussbar connectors. Should be able to be installed inline....but I can't tell the rating. The info makes it look like it's multi-use?
It will work as a 40 A ground fault protection device only, its not a circuit breaker.
There is no thermal or magnetic overcurrent protection.
Enlarge the picture and look at the symbols.


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Old 12-23-2010, 03:19 AM   #24
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Thanks, Claudius....I finally realized I could zoom Ground fault is what's important, as any outlet I plug into will have overcurrent protection at the main panel. As long as I don't plug into a >30A circuit (plug won't fit anyway).....it should be fine.

Anyone want to weigh in on mA sensitivities? Is 30 milli-amperes too high? I thought most GFCI's would trip around 4-6 mA......?

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Old 12-23-2010, 03:55 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by ScubaSteve View Post
Thanks, Claudius....I finally realized I could zoom Ground fault is what's important, as any outlet I plug into will have overcurrent protection at the main panel. As long as I don't plug into a >30A circuit (plug won't fit anyway).....it should be fine.

Anyone want to weigh in on mA sensitivities? Is 30 milli-amperes too high? I thought most GFCI's would trip around 4-6 mA......?
What does the data sheet show for a non IEC panel mount GFI?
The circuit will start to trip at 26mA.

IEC standard
1.1 Electric shock
An electric shock is the pathophysiological effect of an electric current through the human body.
Its passage affects essentially the muscular, circulatory and respiratory functions and sometimes results in serious burns.
The degree of danger for the victim is a function of the magnitude of the current, the parts of the body through which the current passes, and the duration of current flow.
IEC publication 60479-1 updated in 2005 defines four zones of current-magnitude/
time-duration, in each of which the pathophysiological effects are described (see Fig F1). Any person coming into contact with live metal risks an electric shock.
Curve C1 shows that when a current greater than 30 mA passes through a human being from one hand to feet, the person concerned is likely to be killed, unless the current is interrupted in a relatively short time.
The point 500 ms/100 mA close to the curve C1 corresponds to a probability of heart fibrillation of the order of 0.14%.
The protection of persons against electric shock in LV installations must be provided in conformity with appropriate national standards and statutory regulations, codes of practice, official guides and circulars, etc. Relevant IEC standards include: IEC 60364 series, IEC 60479 series, IEC 60755, IEC 61008 series, IEC 61009 series and IEC 60947-2.

If you need the curve I will make a JPEG pic.

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Old 12-23-2010, 04:53 AM   #26
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Read this info

GENERAL ELECTRIC
Install GFCI Circuit Breakers on Grounded Power Supply Circuits only
CLASS A
1) To minimize false tripping: Do not connect to swimming pool equipment installed before adoption of the 1965 National Electrical Code.
2) 30 milliampere ground fault equipment protection circuit breakers (yellow TEST button) are NOT intended, and are NOT suitable, for ground fault protection of personnel coming in contact with electrical parts. Use 5 milliampere GFCI circuit breakers for this application.
3) 5 milliampere GFCI circuit breakers (red TEST button) and 30 milliampere ground fault equipment protection circuit breakers (yellow TEST button) are intended for use on 120Vac circuits (1-pole circuit breaker) or 120/240 or 208Y/120Vac (2-pole circuit breaker), 60 Hz circuits onl

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Old 12-23-2010, 07:14 PM   #27
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Great info! I can be stubborn at times, but in this case there is no room for error or cheaper components! Gonna keep an eye out for a cable.....plus I'll probably get a look in the panel to see exactly what breakers I have......

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Old 12-24-2010, 09:28 PM   #28
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If you have a Cutler Hammer BR series you can pick up a 50AMP hot tub sub panel, yank the GFCI out of it and put it in your main panel for $80 (Lowes). Since it sounds like you want to keep everything portable why not wire a 50amp breaker from your main panel down to a suitable outlet, put the GFCI hot tub sub panel in your portable control box and build a 6AWG extension cord to connect the two?

I have a Cutler Hammer CH series and the cheapest 50amp GFCI I could find was over $150 so I'm going from my main box to the BR series hot tub sub panel GFCI and from there to another sub panel with a 15amp and two 30amp breakers. I'll then go from the subsub panel to a simple control box. I already have about 20' of 6-3 wire and need to go about 30' to the brew area so this option was the best on my wallet when factoring in all costs.

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Old 12-27-2010, 05:57 PM   #29
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Unfortunately, I also have the Cutler Hammer CH series in my main panel. I have a $60 gift card for Lowe's, so I'm leaning in the direction of getting a spa panel and a few feet of 6ga wire. I'd like to install a receptacle next to it and keep it putting out 50A in case I get a welder....so then I'll need a 50A range cord and a 30A breaker inside my toolbox control panel.

On another note, anyone seen or use one of THESE DONUT STYLE GFCI'S? Looks like you need a contactor as well.....

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Old 12-29-2010, 01:38 AM   #30
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Would this work for a GFI Cord? It's only got 3 wires...

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