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Old 11-26-2013, 05:44 PM   #21
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The complete panel most likely wont be UL approved. The components can be. There are a lot of factors that play a role in being UL approved, from placement to actual schematics. Things like controllers next to breakers will most likely void this approval, unless they are in separate enclosures. I know this because I have had numerous conference calls with them trying to get a large building automation module approved.

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Old 11-27-2013, 12:21 AM   #22
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have you seen what Blichmann announced earlier this year? looks like they will incorporate a new electric system into their tower of power. Im sure itll cost a bunch, but maybe that will be UL approved. just a thought

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Old 11-27-2013, 02:45 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadie View Post
Your BIL could probably do it in a weekend. Like anything else it depends on how well prepared you are and how much time you have. Kal specifically answers questions like this on his site. My understanding is that it costs more for you to order all the parts yourself as opposed to ordering Kal's kit unless maybe you are reusing some parts you already have or maybe your BIL gets a discount. If ordering the kit from Kal remember that there is a multi-week lead time so plan accordingly.
He's planning on helping me re-mount the hardware I'm already using inside the box. Right now I have everything mounted on a piece of plywood that's fastened to my three tier brew stand. He said the only problem he'll have will be cutting a square hole for my PID. He doesn't think they have a square punch that large at work. He also said he should be able to mount the SSRs to the steel side of the box & do away with my heat sink.
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Old 11-27-2013, 03:12 PM   #24
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Don't omit the heat sinks! Preferably, mount them externally through a cut out, bonded to the SSRs with thermal grease.

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Old 11-28-2013, 03:20 AM   #25
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Don't omit the heat sinks! Preferably, mount them externally through a cut out, bonded to the SSRs with thermal grease.
Right now I have three SSRs mounted on one long heat sink and the heat sink is strapped to my plywood panel with two zip ties. The fins are clamped against the plywood but the heat sink is oriented so the fins run vertical. It cools great - I can actually feel the warm air coming out of the top during my boil.

I asked if he could cut a slot in the side of the panel so we can just mount it from the outside. He measured the length and width of the heat sink and is supposed to let me know.
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