Twang

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I am building a 2-3 gallon beverage cooler heat exchange vessel to maintain temperature and step mash.

Originally I was going to use a 120v 1500w element since I do not have a 240 outlet. But I discovered I have a 20amp circuit next to where I brew so I want to take advantage of it w/ the 2000 element.

My understanding is the johnson, ranco, love controllers can not handle this amperage (only 16 amps).

I am new to PIDs and SSRs.

Can anyone recommend a PID and SSR + Heatsink that would best fit my situation? Or the critical specs I need to be aware of when searching?

bbognerks

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Auber SYL-2352, 23A SSR from ebay with included heatsink. Done deal.

Twang

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Thanks.

I've read people prefer rtd over the thermocouple. What rtd/thermowell setup is recommended for putting in a tee on the copper coil outlet from the heat exchange?

And can I use a plastic project box from Radioshack or will it get too hot?

bbognerks

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If you buy the RTD/Thermo from Auber, get a liquid tight one with NPT threads, probably 2" lengthif you want it in the tee. As far as heat, as long as the heatsink is outside the box it should be fine.

P-J

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Also if you get the PID from Auber Instruments, you might want to consider their Project Box. It's a great fit for what you are trying to accomplish. It is already set up and cutout for the PID.

Plus a bunch on the suggestion of a RTD probe from Auber Instruments. You will not regret it.

chrisdb

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+1

audger

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FWIW- i have a 2kw 120v element in my HERMS tank, too. it pulls just over 15 amps in actuality. its good to have some head room built in, but if you are using the ballpark of 20+amps, you may be way over-provisioning.

this is the setup i use
temp probe
PID controler
40A relay
_______________
~$65 total

Walker

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This would be because you don't actually have 120V available. You only get 2000W if you run on 120V, and that will pull 16.6A.

If you actually measure 110V in your outlets, then your 2kW element is functioning only as a 1680W element and pulling 15.3A.

Everyone gets a little variation in their voltage measured at the outlet. I measure almost 125V on my outlets, and I know people who measure 110V. That's a significant difference when it comes to power.

edit: at my house, a "2000W/120V" element would actually be a "2150W/125V" element and would pull over 17A. that's almost a 500W difference between 125V and 110V.

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