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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Need help with a simple wiring diagram please
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Old 12-27-2012, 02:23 PM   #31
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A bit of advice - you made a drawing and the folks who looked at it said it was ok. Now when you build your panel you need to stick to the drawing. Don't make modifications on the fly. There could be unintended consequences.

Please post a pic of the outside of the box with some text about it. That might help.

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Old 12-27-2012, 03:33 PM   #32
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I've studied your pictures a few times now and for the life of me can't tell what's going on in there... Sorry, but I'll be of no help on this one.

BTW - is that speaker wire you're running?

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Old 12-28-2012, 03:28 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlbeer View Post
A bit of advice - you made a drawing and the folks who looked at it said it was ok. Now when you build your panel you need to stick to the drawing. Don't make modifications on the fly. There could be unintended consequences.

Please post a pic of the outside of the box with some text about it. That might help.
I didn't try to make any change, I just made a stupid mistake. How I have it setup now is to the 'specs' of the diagram I believe (with the exception of the PID drawing power from the same source as the element.

I'll post pics sometime next week when I'm home from the holidays.

Thanks.
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:30 PM   #34
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I've studied your pictures a few times now and for the life of me can't tell what's going on in there... Sorry, but I'll be of no help on this one.

BTW - is that speaker wire you're running?
I'll try to take some better pics at some point.

Yes I have some speaker wire in there where there's lower voltage (to the PID, etc).
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Old 12-29-2012, 01:23 AM   #35
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In your picture it looks like speaker wire is labeled HOT and CONTACTOR... I don't think the insulation on speaker wire is rated for much...

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Old 12-29-2012, 02:00 AM   #36
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Speaker wire is ok for low voltage like the 12v signal from pid to ssr. It is not ok for 110v like you have it connected. Pick up some alarm or sprinkler wire a hd or lowes rated for 250v for pid power, contactor coil and other low current high voltage signals.

Your design is pretty basic and you should be able to ohm out all connections with a multimeter.

Consider bypassing the ssr and pid and verify you can turn the element on/off with a switch controlling the contactor coil.
If this works then hook up the pid and ssr and test in manual mode.
If this works then program the pod and test in auto mode.

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Old 12-29-2012, 02:27 AM   #37
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For the original setup did you break the tabs on the outlet? If not the heater was getting power directly from the incoming source through the outlet. That shouldn't matter now that you are using two outlets, but I figured I mention it.

I'm not familiar with the contactor, but in the schematic it is shown as if the contacts close across the distance of the relay, and that is how it appears to be wired. Some contactors close and connect the adjacent terminals, so that one set is on one side, the other set on the opposite side. Was there a diagram with it when you bought it? Or anyone already familiar with this contactor? Just one thought. Do you have updated pictures to show the new outlets?

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