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Old 10-25-2010, 05:03 PM   #21
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Looks pretty good to me. I am not really sure that I personally like the idea of relying on a GFCI for the E-Stop. Personally what I would do is put a double pole contactor across the incoming lines and have the E-Stop cut the coil current when it is pushed. But again this is my personal opinion.
That does sound safer...or at least more direct! Ill have to check it out...

Thansk!
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Old 10-25-2010, 05:22 PM   #22
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That does sound safer...or at least more direct! Ill have to check it out...

Thansk!
Look at Ohio-Eds design. Basically you have a E-Stop with 120V running through it. The 120V line connects to a DPST contactor with a 120V coil. The E-Stop line will energize the coil of the contactor thus connecting the two 120V lines to your system. If you push the E-Stop it denergizes the coil and cuts the power.... Ohio-Ed did basically that except he also added a "power-up" button. Basically the power up button powers another relay which in turn powers its own coil and the contactor coil.... so to turn the system on you disable the E-Stop and then push the start button.... I think it is a safer approach. If you get any ground leakage the GFCI will still fault, but it is really serving its intended purpose and not as a E-Stop.

Let me know if you have any questions.
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Old 10-25-2010, 05:27 PM   #23
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My thought on that is this: if you're going to rely on the GFCI to save your life anyway, why not use it for a kill switch? You should be testing your GFCI periodically anyway, and if it works, your kill switch will work, cutting power furthest upstream of your power source possible. If it doesn't work, you shouldn't be brewing with it until it's fixed.

There's nothing wrong with the other method as well, so the choice is yours.

TB

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Old 10-25-2010, 05:30 PM   #24
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I do have room (at least I think I do) but the MLT PID is solely for monitoring temperature. Thanks for taking the time!
No problem. Like I said, I'll take another look when I get home.

TB
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On tap:
1. Bourbon Barrel Imperial Oatmeal Stout 2. Oktoberfest 3. IPA 4. Bohemian Pilsner 5.[Nitrogen] Dry Stout
Primary:
1. Ger Pils 2. Ger Pils 3. Lambic 4. Lambic 5. none 6. none
Secondary:
1. Brett Ale 2. Ger Pils 3. Ger Pils 4. none
Bottled:
About 36 gallons of beer & 4.2 gallons of mead
Kegged & conditioning:
Breakfast Stout x2, Belgian Dubbel, Chocolate Milk Stout, Oktoberfest (lagering), Pale Ale x2
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Old 10-25-2010, 05:45 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Tiber_Brew View Post
My thought on that is this: if you're going to rely on the GFCI to save your life anyway, why not use it for a kill switch? You should be testing your GFCI periodically anyway, and if it works, your kill switch will work, cutting power furthest upstream of your power source possible. If it doesn't work, you shouldn't be brewing with it until it's fixed.

There's nothing wrong with the other method as well, so the choice is yours.

TB
Agreed you could just rely on the GFCI for your E-Stop, but I like the idea of having the E-Stop not just for electrical emergency, but any emergency. I'm using motorized ball valves that are normally closed unless enegrized. If for some reason I spring a leak or anything goes haywire I can kill the power for the entire unit.
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Old 10-25-2010, 06:15 PM   #26
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Agreed you could just rely on the GFCI for your E-Stop, but I like the idea of having the E-Stop not just for electrical emergency, but any emergency. I'm using motorized ball valves that are normally closed unless enegrized. If for some reason I spring a leak or anything goes haywire I can kill the power for the entire unit.
And you can do exactly that by tripping the GFCI. When I hit my kill switch, the GFCI kills all power to my system, including pumps. If your valves are normally closed, and open when energized, then a GFCI trip will close them back up if you hit the kill switch.

Again, nothing wrong with the other method; they both ultimately accomplish the same objective.

TB
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On tap:
1. Bourbon Barrel Imperial Oatmeal Stout 2. Oktoberfest 3. IPA 4. Bohemian Pilsner 5.[Nitrogen] Dry Stout
Primary:
1. Ger Pils 2. Ger Pils 3. Lambic 4. Lambic 5. none 6. none
Secondary:
1. Brett Ale 2. Ger Pils 3. Ger Pils 4. none
Bottled:
About 36 gallons of beer & 4.2 gallons of mead
Kegged & conditioning:
Breakfast Stout x2, Belgian Dubbel, Chocolate Milk Stout, Oktoberfest (lagering), Pale Ale x2
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Old 10-25-2010, 07:45 PM   #27
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True dat, tomato tomahto.

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CBC Bodhi IPA



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Old 10-25-2010, 09:04 PM   #28
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:16 PM   #29
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Would you happen to have a close-up pic of your kill switch wiring (including the fuse and resistors?)

Thanks!
I can try getting a better shot when I get home, but there are a few shots of my wiring in my build thread. I'm posting from my phone, else I'd provide a link for ya. Perhaps someone will spot me a link...?

TB
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On tap:
1. Bourbon Barrel Imperial Oatmeal Stout 2. Oktoberfest 3. IPA 4. Bohemian Pilsner 5.[Nitrogen] Dry Stout
Primary:
1. Ger Pils 2. Ger Pils 3. Lambic 4. Lambic 5. none 6. none
Secondary:
1. Brett Ale 2. Ger Pils 3. Ger Pils 4. none
Bottled:
About 36 gallons of beer & 4.2 gallons of mead
Kegged & conditioning:
Breakfast Stout x2, Belgian Dubbel, Chocolate Milk Stout, Oktoberfest (lagering), Pale Ale x2
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:20 PM   #30
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http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/ele...5/index25.html

in the first wiring pic: fuse holder and the two in line resistors covered by heat shrink...nice job!
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