Ss Brewing Technologies Giveaway!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Need help with my electrical diagram!!!
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 10-24-2010, 06:01 PM   #11
EuBrew
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 491
Liked 4 Times on 3 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

I am designing mine as well. I will have a 50A breaker in my main feeding a 50A GFCI spa panel that feeds my control enclosure. For kids lock out I will be powering off both the main breaker and the spa panel breaker with a padlock on the sub panel. Then for the system I'll have an E-Stop. When the E-Stop is depressed it has to be reset by pulling it out again. The wiring for the E-Stop is well documented in Ohio-Ed's post here.

It may be a little more work to flip 2 breakers and lock the sub panel, but to me it's worth it. Also the E-Stop allows you to power down the entire business with the slap of a button in case of an emergency during a brew.

Good luck!

__________________
Primary 1: empty
Primary 2: empty
Primary 3: still at LHBS waiting for me to purchase
Secondary 1: empty
Secondary 2: empty
Secondary 3: empty

Kegged: New Belgium Ranger IPA Clone attempt #1
Bottled Southern Tier Pumking Clone

Planned: EdWort's haus pale ale
CBC Bodhi IPA



I may be naive but I make up for that with inexperience!!
EuBrew is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-24-2010, 06:12 PM   #12
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,257
Liked 250 Times on 201 Posts
Likes Given: 441

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by EuBrew View Post

... The wiring for the E-Stop is well documented in Ohio-Ed's post here.
That is a whole bunch of pages and posts to wade through to find the info you suggest. (33 pages - 325 posts)

Just saying...
__________________
P-J is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-24-2010, 06:41 PM   #13
EFaden
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Rochester, New York
Posts: 546
Liked 12 Times on 12 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

FYI I looked through the Digikey catalog for a keylock. It seems that they don't make one large enough for your current draw. If you want the keylock I would suggest using a SPST keylock connected to contactors. You could then also build an E-Stop button into it by running the line to the contactors through it. Does that make sense? or you want me to sketch it?

__________________
EFaden is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-24-2010, 07:54 PM   #14
EuBrew
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 491
Liked 4 Times on 3 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by P-J View Post
That is a whole bunch of pages and posts to wade through to find the info you suggest. (33 pages - 325 posts)

Just saying...
True, but if Gabrew isn't comfortable with his wiring diagram, which I'm guessing he's not since he's requesting info, this is one of the best threads out there, lots of good info especially in the first 100 posts or so. The E-Stop starts around post #68.

Ohio-Ed's final drawing (I think final) drawing is on post 204, the E-stop is at the very top. The rest may or may not apply for Gabrew.


Gabrew, you should also read through CodeRages sticky electrical primer, there's info on the E-Stop in there too.


Brew On!!
__________________
Primary 1: empty
Primary 2: empty
Primary 3: still at LHBS waiting for me to purchase
Secondary 1: empty
Secondary 2: empty
Secondary 3: empty

Kegged: New Belgium Ranger IPA Clone attempt #1
Bottled Southern Tier Pumking Clone

Planned: EdWort's haus pale ale
CBC Bodhi IPA



I may be naive but I make up for that with inexperience!!
EuBrew is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-25-2010, 02:22 PM   #15
Gabrew
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Montreal
Posts: 376
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

Awesome guys!

Thanks once again for the great input!

Ive thought about it and will probably go with a simple e-stop or nothing at all and simply lock the breaker themselves once Im done!

Ive rechecked my diagram with my pops and he suggested that:

-there only be one hot line running through the indicator lights for the elements, if not they will blow.
-He also suggested that there be a neutral running from all indicator lights.

Can anyone validate this please??

Thanks!

Gabrew

__________________
Gabrew is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-25-2010, 03:26 PM   #16
Tiber_Brew
It's about the beer.
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Tiber_Brew's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Upper Peninsula, Michigan
Posts: 2,050
Liked 94 Times on 71 Posts
Likes Given: 138

Default

Are your indicator lights 120V? I presume they are, so you should have one hot and one neutral fed to each. You can daisy chain the neutral to all the lights.

By the way, my kill switch is a momentary normally open button switch. That works perfectly for the GFCI method that P-J described.

TB

__________________
On tap:
1. Bourbon Barrel Imperial Oatmeal Stout 2. Oktoberfest 3. IPA 4. Bohemian Pilsner 5.[Nitrogen] Dry Stout
Primary:
1. Ger Pils 2. Ger Pils 3. none 4. none 5. none 6. none
Secondary:
1. Brett Ale 2. none 3. none 4. none
Bottled:
About 36 gallons of beer & 4.2 gallons of mead
Kegged & conditioning:
Breakfast Stout x2, Belgian Dubbel, Chocolate Milk Stout, Oktoberfest (lagering), Pale Ale x2
Tiber_Brew is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-25-2010, 04:35 PM   #17
Gabrew
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Montreal
Posts: 376
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

Thanks TB

So heres an update with what Ive learned (thanks to you guys). Please let me know what you think!!!



Gabrew

__________________
Gabrew is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-25-2010, 04:44 PM   #18
EFaden
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Rochester, New York
Posts: 546
Liked 12 Times on 12 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Looks pretty good to me. I am not really sure that I personally like the idea of relying on a GFCI for the E-Stop. Personally what I would do is put a double pole contactor across the incoming lines and have the E-Stop cut the coil current when it is pushed. But again this is my personal opinion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrew View Post
Thanks TB

So heres an update with what Ive learned (thanks to you guys). Please let me know what you think!!!



Gabrew
__________________
EFaden is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-25-2010, 04:53 PM   #19
Tiber_Brew
It's about the beer.
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Tiber_Brew's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Upper Peninsula, Michigan
Posts: 2,050
Liked 94 Times on 71 Posts
Likes Given: 138

Default

At first glance, that looks good. I will take a closer look when I get home.

Do you have room in your enclosure for a third SSR & contractor? Or is the MLT PID dedicated only to monitoring mash temps, not controlling?

Looking forward to seeing your CP build.

TB

__________________
On tap:
1. Bourbon Barrel Imperial Oatmeal Stout 2. Oktoberfest 3. IPA 4. Bohemian Pilsner 5.[Nitrogen] Dry Stout
Primary:
1. Ger Pils 2. Ger Pils 3. none 4. none 5. none 6. none
Secondary:
1. Brett Ale 2. none 3. none 4. none
Bottled:
About 36 gallons of beer & 4.2 gallons of mead
Kegged & conditioning:
Breakfast Stout x2, Belgian Dubbel, Chocolate Milk Stout, Oktoberfest (lagering), Pale Ale x2
Tiber_Brew is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-25-2010, 05:02 PM   #20
Gabrew
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Montreal
Posts: 376
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiber_Brew View Post
At first glance, that looks good. I will take a closer look when I get home.

Do you have room in your enclosure for a third SSR & contractor? Or is the MLT PID dedicated only to monitoring mash temps, not controlling?

Looking forward to seeing your CP build.

TB
I do have room (at least I think I do) but the MLT PID is solely for monitoring temperature. Thanks for taking the time!
__________________
Gabrew is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Electrical Primer for Brewers CodeRage Electric Brewing 208 07-28-2014 02:10 PM
Show me your cheap electrical enclosure Dgonza9 Electric Brewing 34 12-30-2011 03:39 PM
Electrical Soldering setups, what do you have/what do you recommend Boerderij_Kabouter Electric Brewing 20 11-03-2010 06:43 PM
Wiring diagram advice frank551 Electric Brewing 6 10-19-2010 01:56 PM