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Old 01-30-2011, 06:54 PM   #1
hrspowr
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Default Need help diagnosing no heat!

Put together a simple control panel.

Auber PID, DSSR to control my 5500w boil kettle and HLT (only one plugged in at a time).


Worked great for 3 brews, then yesterday the element stopped working. You could hear the "Fizzing" noise as it heated, then suddenly stopped.

I unpluged the HLT and plugged in the Boil kettle to be sure I had not burned up the element. Neither element works.

The control panel seems to be working corectly. When I switch to manual, and put output to 100% I have 110 coming out of both legs on the panel outlet (with load plugged in). But neither element heats up.

Is it possible I burned out both elements at same time? They were never fired dry, and only a couple weeks old. Is there a resistance test for elements?


Help!

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Old 01-30-2011, 07:31 PM   #2
samc
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http://www.plumbingstore.com/heater_...ermostats.html

testing water heater element "How do I check an electric water heater element? Should the elements be removed to check it, and do I need to drain the tank?"
It isn't necessary to remove the elements or drain the tank to test them, but the elements must be removed (and the tank drained) to replace them. To test the elements, you will need a voltage/OHM meter. Turn off the power to the heater first and disconnect the two wires to the elements. Set the meter to the "OHM" function, and check the flow between the two screw connectors of the elements: If there is a positive reading, then the circuit is "closed" and the element is fine; if there is no reading, the circuit is "open" and a new element is needed. Also, if you get a reading on your meter between either of the screw connections and the metal element, the element is shorted and must be replaced. You should expect an approximation of the following readings on the OHM meter (give or take a little) for functioning elements:

* 15.5 ohms for 3500 watts
* 13.0 ohms for 4500 watts
* 10.0 ohms for 5500 watts
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Old 01-31-2011, 09:53 PM   #3
hrspowr
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Thanks! I get 9 ohms across the two terminals on both elements and no continuity from either terminal to the metal base of element. If I am reading the testing proceedure correctly, looks like they are ok.

Back to the drawing board. I guess I will try plugging elements straight into 240v outlet to see if something is wrong with control panel. I suppose my DSSR could be bad, letting voltage through when switched on but not enough amperage?

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