New Giveaway - Wort Monster Conical Fermeneter!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Need help with automation direct switches




Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-04-2010, 12:28 AM   #1
Dgonza9
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Evanston, Illinois
Posts: 1,183
Liked 9 Times on 9 Posts

Default Need help with automation direct switches

I bought the following switches from automationdirect.com

Here are the switches

I was expecting them to work like ordinary sp switches only pushbutton with an led. But they came with a "contact block." The contact block is N.O or normally open. So I assume this means it's off and when I push the button in will be closed and power the devices.

I'm not sure about wiring, though. Can anyone offer some guidance on wiring or on what the contact block is and how this puppy works?

Many thanks. I was hoping to get a RIMS control panel going this weekend, run some tests and brew next weekend.



__________________
On Tap: Belgian Barrel Aged Barleywine, Da Yooper's Oatmeal Stout, Breakfast Stout, Hop Your Face Off IIPA, Catcher in the Rye Saison, "Wino-head" Nelsin Sauvin Gumballhead.

Bourbon Barrel Duchesse De Bourgnone
Kegged:

Fermenting English Mild

on Deck: Lager?
Dgonza9 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-04-2010, 01:42 AM   #2
Budzu
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 793
Liked 16 Times on 15 Posts

Default

The contact block will switch the load. Here's how you should wire it to illuminate when switched on.

Top of contact block:
incoming load (120v +)

Bottom of contact block:
switched load
AND jumper wire to the top terminal of the switch body

Top terminal of switch body:
See above

Bottom terminal of switch body:
120v neutral (to activate the lamp)

These switches are rated for 10 amp max.

You can share the loads in the top contact block terminals (between multiple switches), and you can share the neutrals.



__________________
Countertop Brutus Budzu-style
Budzu is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-04-2010, 03:02 AM   #3
Dgonza9
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Evanston, Illinois
Posts: 1,183
Liked 9 Times on 9 Posts

Default

Thanks for that information. Unfortunately, I wanted to use one of these for my element, which will draw 12.5 amps. Any recommendations for a switch I could use for that?

Thanks.

__________________
On Tap: Belgian Barrel Aged Barleywine, Da Yooper's Oatmeal Stout, Breakfast Stout, Hop Your Face Off IIPA, Catcher in the Rye Saison, "Wino-head" Nelsin Sauvin Gumballhead.

Bourbon Barrel Duchesse De Bourgnone
Kegged:

Fermenting English Mild

on Deck: Lager?
Dgonza9 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-04-2010, 03:54 AM   #4
Cede
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Cede's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Thetford Mines, QC, Canada
Posts: 66
Default

Just put a relay ie 781-1C-120A 120V coil, 15A contact rating

__________________
http://www.bieremaison.fr data for french speaking homebrewers
Cede is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-06-2010, 03:52 PM   #5
Dgonza9
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Evanston, Illinois
Posts: 1,183
Liked 9 Times on 9 Posts

Default Opposite of light switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Budzu View Post
The contact block will switch the load. Here's how you should wire it to illuminate when switched on.

Top of contact block:
incoming load (120v +)

Bottom of contact block:
switched load
AND jumper wire to the top terminal of the switch body

Top terminal of switch body:
See above

Bottom terminal of switch body:
120v neutral (to activate the lamp)

These switches are rated for 10 amp max.

You can share the loads in the top contact block terminals (between multiple switches), and you can share the neutrals.
So it sounds like it's the opposite of a typical light switch where the "line" wire (hot) comes in the bottom and then the "load" wire (what line is supplying) goes out the top, no?

And the neutral wire can be "daisy chained" from the body of the switch?

Thanks. I thought it might be helpful for myself and others to compare this to a typical light switch installation. Cheers!
__________________
On Tap: Belgian Barrel Aged Barleywine, Da Yooper's Oatmeal Stout, Breakfast Stout, Hop Your Face Off IIPA, Catcher in the Rye Saison, "Wino-head" Nelsin Sauvin Gumballhead.

Bourbon Barrel Duchesse De Bourgnone
Kegged:

Fermenting English Mild

on Deck: Lager?
Dgonza9 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-06-2010, 03:53 PM   #6
Dgonza9
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Evanston, Illinois
Posts: 1,183
Liked 9 Times on 9 Posts

Default How do you wire it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cede View Post
Just put a relay ie 781-1C-120A 120V coil, 15A contact rating
The instructions got me a bit lost on their site. Do you essentially wire it like an SSR?

Thanks and sorry for the dumb question.
__________________
On Tap: Belgian Barrel Aged Barleywine, Da Yooper's Oatmeal Stout, Breakfast Stout, Hop Your Face Off IIPA, Catcher in the Rye Saison, "Wino-head" Nelsin Sauvin Gumballhead.

Bourbon Barrel Duchesse De Bourgnone
Kegged:

Fermenting English Mild

on Deck: Lager?
Dgonza9 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-06-2010, 04:34 PM   #7
Dgonza9
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Evanston, Illinois
Posts: 1,183
Liked 9 Times on 9 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dgonza9 View Post
So it sounds like it's the opposite of a typical light switch where the "line" wire (hot) comes in the bottom and then the "load" wire (what line is supplying) goes out the top, no?

And the neutral wire can be "daisy chained" from the body of the switch?

Thanks. I thought it might be helpful for myself and others to compare this to a typical light switch installation. Cheers!
Top and bottom are kind of relative on one of these push button switches.
__________________
On Tap: Belgian Barrel Aged Barleywine, Da Yooper's Oatmeal Stout, Breakfast Stout, Hop Your Face Off IIPA, Catcher in the Rye Saison, "Wino-head" Nelsin Sauvin Gumballhead.

Bourbon Barrel Duchesse De Bourgnone
Kegged:

Fermenting English Mild

on Deck: Lager?
Dgonza9 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-06-2010, 09:45 PM   #8
ClaudiusB
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: El Paso, Texas
Posts: 1,220
Liked 50 Times on 45 Posts
Likes Given: 105

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dgonza9 View Post
Top and bottom are kind of relative on one of these push button switches.
Additional info
This is an Automation Direct illuminated switch I use.
The green part is NO contact block.
One side gets connected to the supply voltage you like to switch (L in my case) and the other side goes to the load (L1 in my case).
The black block is the lamp part you wire to your voltage as required for your project.
In my case wire number 10 is DC common and 240 is 24 V+.


Now you can follow Budzu instruction based on the pics.
Edit:
Quote:
So it sounds like it's the opposite of a typical light switch where the "line" wire (hot) comes in the bottom and then the "load" wire (what line is supplying) goes out the top, no?
It does not matter how you wire the contact block.
My rule is for switches and circuit breakers supply on the top.
As you can see in the picture 24, 240 and L are all supply.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB
__________________
My Brewery Pics
Grain Mill Glycol Chiller
Keg Washer
ClaudiusB is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-09-2010, 07:47 PM   #9
kal
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
kal's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 1,957
Liked 177 Times on 120 Posts
Likes Given: 5

Default

I also found industrial switches confusing to understand at first. I documented how they work with pictures here describing the parts like operator (or selector), contact blocks, etc:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-1?page=9

Kal

__________________
TheElectricBrewery.com: A step by step guide to building your own electric brewery
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
kal is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-09-2010, 10:41 PM   #10
Cede
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Cede's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Thetford Mines, QC, Canada
Posts: 66
Default

Quote:
The instructions got me a bit lost on their site. Do you essentially wire it like an SSR?
Yes, sorta.
Wire switch terminal one to live, the other to the relay coil, and from the other pin of the relay coil to neutral.
You can wire the light in the switch in parallel with the charge at the relay contacts.


__________________
http://www.bieremaison.fr data for french speaking homebrewers
Cede is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Illuminated switches...(WARNING REALLY DUMB QUESTION AHEAD) JayInJersey Electric Brewing 10 11-01-2010 03:18 PM
How do I run lower volts and amps to my switches? Ranger9913 Electric Brewing 8 10-17-2010 02:38 PM
120v Switches CoalCracker Electric Brewing 7 10-15-2010 08:53 PM
Source for 20 Amp, 240 V Toggle switches Windsors Electric Brewing 19 10-15-2010 04:50 PM