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Old 01-31-2012, 04:40 PM   #21
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Gfi outlet in wall wired to relay/ssr wired regular outlet so element can plug in. But again each separate circuit would only protect itself.

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Old 01-31-2012, 04:41 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by yjfun View Post
I don't see a voltage rating on that one. This is what I would use

http://www.discountfuse.com/KTK_10_B...se_p/ktk10.htm

This is what we use at work for anything 120-480 volt. They are relatively cheap and very easy to find in a lot of different ampacities. There are also standardized fuse block assemblies for them at the bottom of the link page.
That's perfect. Thanks.
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:20 PM   #23
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Since you already have the circuits run pvtschultz is right the cheapest way is to just replace your existing outlets with gfi outlets. The only downside is if one circuit has a problem the others all stay on.

It does cost more money but you could take out your 4 peanut breakers and install one 2 pole gfi breaker in the 30-50 amp range and run a 4 wire cord over to your control panel. By doing this you could use the two legs as separate 120 volt circuits and not have to change your existing keggle elements.
So if I do this, I just need one 30 amp 240v gfci breaker, right? This will in effect provide two 30 amp lines, correct?

I can then run these to my two contactors and use fuses to protect the #12 gauge wires.

But will the gfci trip if just one of the elements is losing current? Or will both cut off in this circumstance?

Thanks for the ideas. I think this is the way I'm going to go if I can put a gfci in the panel that will really protect everything down stream.
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Old 01-31-2012, 11:30 PM   #24
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I'm not sure how much current that single #10 neutral is going to be able to carry (30 amps by NEC in residential applications actually). The two hot legs will be fine since they are each rated for 30 amps, but you'll still have one neutral for up to 50 amps should you go with the larger main breaker. I'm a mechanical engineer so I'm not sure how the neutral is treated in this application, but I'm thinking that the one #10 wire is going to limit you to 30 amps (that is unless you go with #6 wire which will get you to 50 amps total IIRC.

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Old 01-31-2012, 11:35 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by pvtschultz
I'm not sure how much current that single #10 neutral is going to be able to carry (30 amps by NEC in residential applications actually). The two hot legs will be fine since they are each rated for 30 amps, but you'll still have one neutral for up to 50 amps should you go with the larger main breaker. I'm a mechanical engineer so I'm not sure how the neutral is treated in this application, but I'm thinking that the one #10 wire is going to limit you to 30 amps (that is unless you go with #6 wire which will get you to 50 amps total IIRC.
Out of phase legs, the neutral current cannot be larger than the greatest leg.
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Old 01-31-2012, 11:36 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pvtschultz
I'm not sure how much current that single #10 neutral is going to be able to carry (30 amps by NEC in residential applications actually). The two hot legs will be fine since they are each rated for 30 amps, but you'll still have one neutral for up to 50 amps should you go with the larger main breaker. I'm a mechanical engineer so I'm not sure how the neutral is treated in this application, but I'm thinking that the one #10 wire is going to limit you to 30 amps (that is unless you go with #6 wire which will get you to 50 amps total IIRC.
No, the two hot legs can share a nutrual, they are out of phase. You are fine with your neutral conducter.
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