Kegconnection Complete Starter Kit and More Giveaway!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Myth? SSRs fail in the CLOSED state?

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 03-21-2011, 01:56 PM   #41
Hugh_Jass
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,961
Liked 28 Times on 27 Posts
Likes Given: 15

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reelale View Post
Seriously, I wonder if most of these failures are the result of amp draw on 220 vac elements? Or is it equal opportunity? I only use a 110 vac 1500W in a RIMS tube. I'm scared now. I have the alarm working to de-activate the signal on overshoots, but that doesn't do any good when the SSR is not answering the phone.
I had one fail on an electric smoker I built. It uses 110v@1500W. I walked away for an hour. When I returned, the heat sink had melted through my control box :shock:

Felt fortunate there was not more damage.

Had to finish the pork in the oven.
__________________
Quote:
"My new company is going to sell Aqua-infused(tm), Alphabetamashed(tm), Wortboiled(tm), Multihops Brewed(tm), Saccharomented(tm), Lageriffic(tm) beer. - Bobby_M
Pigs are fantastic creatures. They convert vegetables into bacon.
Hugh_Jass is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-21-2011, 02:18 PM   #42
Walker
I use secondaries. :p
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Walker's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Cary, NC
Posts: 11,235
Liked 72 Times on 64 Posts
Likes Given: 11

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugh_Jass View Post
I had one fail on an electric smoker I built. It uses 110v@1500W. I walked away for an hour. When I returned, the heat sink had melted through my control box :shock:

Felt fortunate there was not more damage.

Had to finish the pork in the oven.
That sucks.

I forgot to mention that I also hat a little collateral damage. A little indicator lamp that I was attached to the output of the SSR was fried at some point. I've got a replacement in a box somewhere, but the light never worked as intended due to the leakage current that the SSR let through, so I am in no rush to put the other one in.
__________________
Ground Fault Brewing Co.
Walker is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-24-2012, 05:25 AM   #43
NiteOwlBrewing
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 143
Default

Methinks I have a faulty/defective SSR. The very first autotune I had on my HLT it WAY over shot and was heating even though the output LED on the PID AND the SSR test LED were not lit. It seems to happen every first heating cycle. Then, I turn off my contactor (which resides in my system prior to the SSR) and back on and it behaves ok. I've since updated the input to the SSR (and switched its duty from HLT to kettle) with a wall wart and the same thing happens. I turn off the signal input and it stays closed. Guess its time to drop another $12. Has anyone else seen this?

__________________
NiteOwlBrewing is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-26-2012, 05:01 PM   #44
86turbodsl
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Albion, MI
Posts: 30
Default

I have Crydom SSR's driving my home's lighting system and I can state without question that SSRs can fail closed. My symptoms were lights that won't shut off. Replace the SSR, and problem fixed. I had this happen when the output was shorted to ground. Always remove power first when working on SSR's.

__________________
86turbodsl is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-14-2013, 05:14 AM   #45
ekjohns
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: St Louis, MO
Posts: 1,379
Liked 20 Times on 19 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Walker what PID are you using and can you better explain how you have the fail safe connected. I would like to use mine for sous vide but am worried about the SSR failing while I am at work

__________________
ekjohns is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-14-2013, 02:40 PM   #46
vindee
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lake Tapps, Washington
Posts: 184
Liked 5 Times on 3 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker View Post
That sucks.

I forgot to mention that I also hat a little collateral damage. A little indicator lamp that I was attached to the output of the SSR was fried at some point. I've got a replacement in a box somewhere, but the light never worked as intended due to the leakage current that the SSR let through, so I am in no rush to put the other one in.
A 1 microfarad 250v capacitor across the terminals of the light will snuff out the leakage current from the relay when off.
Steve
__________________

Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy

vindee is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-14-2013, 03:36 PM   #47
jeffmeh
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
jeffmeh's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,805
Liked 131 Times on 112 Posts
Likes Given: 17

Default

Since it appears that nobody has explicitly stated it in this thread, ruining one's beer by overshooting on the mash, or having to scrap one's brew day, are minor nuisances compared to the worst case scenario if you have 20+ amps of live current without knowing it. It is very good safety practice to switch a normally open, 2-pole contactor, controlling both hot legs, between the SSR and the element. That way one knows that off means off (OK, technically both the SSR and contactor could fail open, but that is highly unlikely).

__________________
jeffmeh is offline
P-J Likes This 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Normally closed SSR's? chuckjaxfl Electric Brewing 20 01-25-2011 03:42 PM
2PDT mech relay that is normally closed? terrazza Electric Brewing 7 01-05-2011 03:53 AM