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Old 03-20-2011, 04:25 PM   #21
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If you had both legs of a 220 install switched with SSR's, wouldn't it still function with one failed (closed) SSR? Am I correct that this would be a built in back-up? Then again how do you keep track of your set-up to know that both SSR's are still working?

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Old 03-20-2011, 05:26 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooper

Good thing you and I had a long conversation last week about heat sinks and why it's where it is, huh?

I'm glad I stopped whining about how much room it took up and just let you do it!
"
By the way, I love the way it's set up with the "main" off/on.
[QUOTE="Yooper"]

Worst case you will boil in your hlt. It could boil the element dry though if the ssr was stuck on. The float only interrupts the control to the ssr. The boil switch is similar. It only interrupts ssr control.

The main power switch will kill everything. As long as you keep an eye on things and don't walk away for a few hours, I think you are fine.
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Old 03-20-2011, 05:48 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by lschiavo View Post

As long as you keep an eye on things and don't walk away for a few hours, I think you are fine.
That seems to be a recurring thing around here......

I guess I wasn't remembering that the float only would interrupt the control to the SSR- but it really doesn't matter. Several things would have to fail for that to even be an issue.

Since the HLT gets the water to strike temps in such a short time now, I have no reason to have it on for hours like I used to. I flipped it on yesterday when I went to crush grain, and I was at temperature by the time I crushed grain and grabbed coffee.

This is off-topic from Walker's point about SSRs, but I wanted to tell you that the auto-tuning worked well. The temperature stayed within a degree or two before turning off/on.

I'm really glad that the heat sink is on the back the way it's set up. My previous CP was the same way, so I guess I didn't really think about it.
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Old 03-20-2011, 06:18 PM   #24
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The big 5500W ULWD elements (Lime-Life or something) can be dry fired and survive I'm told. I have not tried it... I have my SSR mounted with the heatsink out the outside of the control box, seems to never get above warm.

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Old 03-20-2011, 06:41 PM   #25
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Add another to the list... Just saw this posted:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/ssr-failure-233653/

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Old 03-20-2011, 11:09 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samc View Post
If you had both legs of a 220 install switched with SSR's, wouldn't it still function with one failed (closed) SSR? Am I correct that this would be a built in back-up? Then again how do you keep track of your set-up to know that both SSR's are still working?
Yes, it would act as a built in backup, and would let you continue on with your brewday. However, you could have a failed SSR and not know it, as you mentioned. The only way to be sure is to occasionally do a systems check where you take a peek at the LED on each SSR.
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:53 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Chefkeith View Post
Yes, it would act as a built in backup, and would let you continue on with your brewday. However, you could have a failed SSR and not know it, as you mentioned. The only way to be sure is to occasionally do a systems check where you take a peek at the LED on each SSR.
The LED on the SSR isn't going to help. That thing is driven by the control signal to the SSR and not by the load current flowing through. The LED on my busted SSR behaves properly and only lights up when the PID or PWM says to.
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:56 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by conpewter View Post
The big 5500W ULWD elements (Lime-Life or something) can be dry fired and survive I'm told. I have not tried it... I have my SSR mounted with the heatsink out the outside of the control box, seems to never get above warm.
I dry fired my 5500W ULWD element once. It's a Camco, but is not one of the ripple shaped ones. It's just long and folded back on itself. It survived, but it STUNK up the garage. There was calcium and residue from brewing on it, and that stuff burned up in an instant and left crusty ash on the element that I had to scrub off.

But.... the element looked better than ever after that. Seriously considering a short dry fire every now and then, like a self-clean on an oven.
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Old 03-21-2011, 01:28 AM   #29
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...Seriously considering a short dry fire every now and then, like a self-clean on an oven.
You are kidding right? I mean there are alot of people out there that hang on every word you guys say.... Could be a lot of snap crackle and poppin' going on out there. My buddy told me that he powered up his hot water tank with out water in it and the elements immediately blew out and sounded like a gun shot. or so he says....
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Old 03-21-2011, 01:31 AM   #30
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The sad part is mechanical relays are even less reliable. Damn sticky springs.

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