Electric Brewing Supply 30A BCS Giveaway!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > My two 5500 watt element 1 PID and SSR build
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 11-26-2011, 03:31 PM   #41
bigljd
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 471
Liked 22 Times on 18 Posts
Likes Given: 6

Default

OK folks, here's the grand finale of this build. I got the vinyl panel decals from Bobby yesterday, so this morning I stuck them on and took some pics!

The completed control panel - there's some funky reflections going on in this picture, but the panel looks really good up close.


The guts of the panel:


The finished brewery:


eKeggle HLT:


The kettle stand I built from some spare MDF and 2x3s I had lying around:


The receptacle wired into a 30amp 2 pole breaker in the home's main panel:


Utility room where the main breaker panel lives, with my brew shed in the background:


The spa panel mounted in the shed which provides GFCI protection to the system. I also mounted a 120v outlet that I wired to the panel with an inline 10 amp fuse. I use it to plug in a light for night brewing and to power the drill I use with my barley crusher:


Another view of the brewery:


I brewed my first German style lager yesterday and used the e-brewery to heat water and boil with, but used my propane burner to do a decoction with. It turned out well even though I botched the decoction volume and had to do another decoction to get the mash to the correct sacch temp.

I want to add the HERMs coil in the future to be able to do step mashes, hold temps more evenly during the mash, and possibly upgrade the MLT to a 15 gal size to do larger 10 gal IPAs. But for now I love my new setup! Electric brewing is so easy to use - just flip a couple switches and push a button and your water is heated for you and your boil holds steady for as long as you like!

Happy brewing

bigljd is offline
inamays Likes This 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-26-2011, 11:59 PM   #42
Sock
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Vancouver, B.C.
Posts: 49
Liked 10 Times on 6 Posts
Likes Given: 33

Default

I might have missed it in the thread somewhere, how do you control the 60 minute boil with a e brew setup.

__________________
Sock is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-27-2011, 12:40 AM   #43
HawkATP
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Wakefield, MA
Posts: 114
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Default

Few more questions, I like your build and have the parts on order:

1) Are the resistors soldered in series and heat shrinked?
2) How did you splice off the ground from the spa panel? I see the two hots and neutral go to the blocks, but the ground goes off to the lower left portion of the box
3) What gauge wiring did you use in the control box. I see 10 gauge for the heating elements (contactors), but what about the rest of the wiring?

__________________
HawkATP is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-27-2011, 02:08 PM   #44
bigljd
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 471
Liked 22 Times on 18 Posts
Likes Given: 6

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sock View Post
I might have missed it in the thread somewhere, how do you control the 60 minute boil with a e brew setup.
When I've sparged enough wort to cover the heating element in the kettle, I flip the switch on the panel to the boil kettle side (BK). Then I switch the PID controller to manual mode and set it to 100% power until I reach a boil. Then I'll dial it back to 50 or 60% for the remainder of the boil and it holds a nice steady rolling boil for 60-90 minutes.
The same PID controller is used for both the HLT and BK.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HawkATP View Post
Few more questions, I like your build and have the parts on order:

1) Are the resistors soldered in series and heat shrinked?
2) How did you splice off the ground from the spa panel? I see the two hots and neutral go to the blocks, but the ground goes off to the lower left portion of the box
3) What gauge wiring did you use in the control box. I see 10 gauge for the heating elements (contactors), but what about the rest of the wiring?
1. Yes, I soldered the 4 resistors in series, and on 1 end of the chain I soldered a ring connector, and on the other I soldered the wire that runs to the E-stop switch. Then I heat shrinked the resistors. You can sort of see them in the picture running along the bottom of the panel behind the 120v receptacles to the ground post.

2. The ground actually runs to the bottom right corner of the box, and all of the receptacle grounds and the control panel ground are joined on a ground post, which is just a bolt runs up through the back plate of the panel. The grounds are crimped to ring connectors and a nut secures them to the bolt. Kal does a much better job of showing it here:
Control Panel (Part 2)

3. The wire carrying the element load is 10g, but all the other wire is 14g and is protected by a 10 amp fuse (which is way more than the PID and pumps will every use). The only exception is the wire from the PID to SSR - the SYL-2352 PID only outputs 12 volts DC at 30mA so I used some wire cut from an old cell phone charger for the PID to SSR connection.
bigljd is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-28-2011, 03:41 AM   #45
Sock
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Vancouver, B.C.
Posts: 49
Liked 10 Times on 6 Posts
Likes Given: 33

Default

Thanks!

__________________
Sock is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-07-2012, 09:49 PM   #46
bigljd
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 471
Liked 22 Times on 18 Posts
Likes Given: 6

Default

OK, so I thought I would update this thread with some upgrades I've done since finishing my original e-brewery build. The first addition was a HERMs coil I built into the HLT keggle. I used the SS coil from a spare 25' immersion chiller I had bought from NY Homebrew supply and SS parts from Bargain Fittings.com. I accidentally kinked one section of the coil, but was able to fix it. The HERMs works great.



This week I built a PWM circuit from Bakatronics following the instructions in this thread. Here's the circuit:







Then I built it into my control panel. I needed a 12 volt power supply and a 4 pole double throw switch for the PWM circuit, both of which I found for pretty cheap at AllElectronics.com.

I have 1 pole of the 4 pole element selector switch controlling 120VAC to the contactors, 1 pole turning on the indicator lights, and 2 poles switching the 12VDC legs between the PWM circuit and the PID controller, so that the SSR is run by the PID when switched to the HLT, and the SSR is run by the PWM circuit when switched to the BK.

Here's how it looks in the panel - the PWM knob is on the top row between the E-stop and the power LED:



I mounted the 12VDC power supply to the top inside of the enclosure using a big piece of adhesive velcro. Here's the guts of the panel:



I've done some testing with it with only 120VAC wired into the panel just to test the PWM circuit and the new switch. Everything seems to work great - the SSR LED barely blinks at all when the PWM circuit knob is turned to Lo, and is on about 98% of the time when the knob is cranked to Hi.

I won't do a full power test for a while though, since I've shut down the brewery for the summer. I've got too much beer to drink, and it's too hot to make more.

Cheers!

bigljd is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-24-2012, 01:48 AM   #47
lunchbox
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 431
Liked 9 Times on 8 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

I really like your setup. Is the BK dimmer switch used to control the amount of power the heating element uses?

__________________

Resident Minarchist

lunchbox is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-24-2012, 02:18 AM   #48
bigljd
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 471
Liked 22 Times on 18 Posts
Likes Given: 6

Default

Yes, the BK Control knob is actually a PWM circuit that controls how much power goes to the boil kettle heating element. When set all the way on Lo, the BK element will only be at about 5% power. When all the way on Hi it will be at about 95% power. You can hold a good rolling boil at about 50-65% for 5-10 gals of wort. The PID controller is being used only for maintaining water temps in the HLT, and the PWM circuit controls the kettle element.

In all honesty, the PWM circuit was not necessary. The Auber PID has a manual mode on it that you can use to control the boil pretty much the same as the PWM circuit does. I just thought it would be a cool project to build a PWM, and after I built it I decided to add it to the control panel. I was having to fiddle with some of the settings with the PID controller to get a smooth boil in the kettle each brew, so that is part of the reason I added the PWM, but it wasn't really necessary. The optimum PID settings to maintain water temps in the HLT are not always the optimum settings to boil wort in the kettle. So now I have separate controller for each.

EDIT: I see you are in Charlotte - if you are looking to upgrade to electric and want to check out my rig, let me know. I'm not far away in Indian Trail.

__________________
E-Brewery Build

$10 DIY Stainless Hop Stopper
bigljd is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-24-2012, 04:40 AM   #49
Lulzman
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 7
Default

Awesome. This would be an interesting project.

Do you have any specs for boil times? Say from room temperature to full boil in X minutes for X volume of water. Say X minutes for X gallons of water from X temperature?

Saw you listed 63 to 150 in 21, but i was just curious how much longer it takes to get from that temp to full boil.

__________________
Lulzman is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-24-2012, 11:28 AM   #50
lunchbox
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 431
Liked 9 Times on 8 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

bigljd, I'd love to check out your rig. It's a bit overwhelming to jump into electric when you have little to no experience with that type of stuff.

__________________

Resident Minarchist

lunchbox is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
tri-clover removable element - brewershardware element adapter canyonbrewer Electric Brewing 44 04-22-2013 02:24 AM
ULWD element dry firing and element lifespan Ajgeo Electric Brewing 5 08-04-2011 07:42 PM
Photos of the new 5500 watt electric system GRHunter Electric Brewing 22 06-16-2011 02:58 AM
Video tour of my 5500 watt heatstick nostalgia Electric Brewing 5 05-22-2011 05:02 PM
Reliance Low Watt Density Element Chefkeith Electric Brewing 6 12-01-2010 02:06 AM