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Old 11-16-2011, 06:05 PM   #11
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Get a tap and die set, and thread holes on your control panel if you can.

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Old 11-17-2011, 01:23 AM   #12
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Nice build! Nice brewspace! I used a couple self-tapping screws to secure the heat sink. JB weld is liquid duct tape...it has it's place.

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Old 11-17-2011, 01:40 AM   #13
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Thanks for the compliments! I'm pretty happy with how things are turning out.

I've got another update tonight - I drilled out the holes in the 62 qt Bayou Classic kettle and mounted the ball valve, thermometer and heating element. My element mount is Kal inspired, but I used a single gang box and the o-ring and nut from Bargain Fittings to seal everything from the inside.

I did a test run with 4 gal of water and there were no apparent leaks and the water heated from 67 to 150 in about 10 minutes. That is way faster than propane.

I won't complete the build this week probably, because I realized I don't have a bulkhead fitting for my keggle, and I want to go stainless so Bargain Fittings is getting another order. I can still brew on Saturday with the new e-brewery, I'll just have to use the Bayou boil kettle to heat the strike and sparge water and pump it to the HLT and MLT. No big deal.

Next week I can finish mounting everything on the keggle, mount my heat sink with either a tap and die or self tapping screws, and build a stand for my boil kettle. I'm ready for a little break since I've been working on this every day for the last 8 days. It's worth it though, and I love this stuff.

Here's some more e-brewery pron for you:

The new Electro-Bayou






Here's my setup for this weekend. The HLT cooler will be replaced later with an electric keggle HLT. My propane burner stand will be used for my e-kettle until I can build a proper wood stand for it that's a bit taller.



Cheers!

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Old 11-17-2011, 04:46 AM   #14
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Looks awesome! This is exactly what I'd like to do. Can you give us a price break down on your build?

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Old 11-17-2011, 05:46 AM   #15
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So... I see that extra set of contacts on your e-stop... that is a NC set of contacts. If you ran the dark green wire on the schematic that feeds the selector switch through those contacts(after the 10A fuse), you would be obeying a big rule in the one and only sticky in this forum "DO NOT DEPEND ON A GFCI TO SAVE YOUR ASS!" As an electrical engineer, I really dislike the idea of a GFCI being used as an e-stop.. (worse than using ground as a neutral in my opinion!) I have had 2 household GFCI's in my house stop responding to the test button, which is what your circuit does.. and what if a wire comes loose? no worky the e-stop? If you have that AND the NC contacts wired up, you are safe, safe, safe..

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Old 11-17-2011, 11:36 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clearwaterbrewer View Post
So... I see that extra set of contacts on your e-stop... that is a NC set of contacts. If you ran the dark green wire on the schematic that feeds the selector switch through those contacts(after the 10A fuse), you would be obeying a big rule in the one and only sticky in this forum "DO NOT DEPEND ON A GFCI TO SAVE YOUR ASS!" As an electrical engineer, I really dislike the idea of a GFCI being used as an e-stop.. (worse than using ground as a neutral in my opinion!) I have had 2 household GFCI's in my house stop responding to the test button, which is what your circuit does.. and what if a wire comes loose? no worky the e-stop? If you have that AND the NC contacts wired up, you are safe, safe, safe..
The e-stop switch I am using is a momentary spring loaded switch so running the power thru the NC contact would cut power to the contactors and PID temporarily if the switch were hit, but it would come back on again after it was released. The reason the GFCI option is used is because if something goes wrong power is completely shut off to the entire panel when the GFCI trips, not just to the kettles. It will stay off until I reset the GFCI back in the spa panel. I plan to regularly check both the continuity of the kettles and control panel to ground, and also to regularly test the e-stop button and GFCI at the spa panel. If either become ungrounded or the GFCI stop worky, then me stop brewy.
I'm assuming you never enter any home jacuzzis then, because I'm sure many of them use spa panels and it's a pretty safe bet that most homeowners never test the GFCI in it. I think the GFCI is as safe an option as any - it's not a guarantee of safety by any means, but if it's regularly tested I am comfortable with it.

EDIT: After thinking about it on my way to work, it wouldn't hurt to run the power thru the NC contact on the switch. That way if for some reason the GFCI were to fail I'd at least be able to temporarily cut off power to the PID and kettles by holding in the e-stop button. It would only take a few minutes to re-route the power thru the NC contact. I've got nothing against redundancies when it comes to safety. I think I'll add that to my list of follow ups for next week. Thanks
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:54 AM   #17
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Looks awesome! This is exactly what I'd like to do. Can you give us a price break down on your build?
Thanks, I'll post a $ total and a basic parts list sometime when I'm done. For just the control panel, elements and wires I think it was around 500.
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Old 11-17-2011, 12:41 PM   #18
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Subscribed. This is sweet and pretty darn close to what I wanna build. Thanks!

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Old 11-17-2011, 01:20 PM   #19
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Looks like you need some of my control panel decals. I just sent a couple orders out this week so maybe you already ordered?

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Old 11-17-2011, 01:38 PM   #20
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Subscribed. This is sweet and pretty darn close to what I wanna build. Thanks!
Thank you. I'm a formerly from GR, and used do a lot of partying with friends from Comstock Park when I was younger.
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