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Old 11-14-2011, 08:09 PM   #1
bigljd
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Default My two 5500 watt element 1 PID and SSR build

After tons of help and ideas from P-J, Ischiavo, Kal’s website, and all of the other builds shared on this site, my build is underway!

To start, here’s the diagram I’m using for the wiring. It started as a P-J diagram but I've significantly modified it to add in 2 contactors to control current to the elements. I also threw in a 240v LED to indicate when the control panel is live.

EDIT 11/26/11: IF YOU WANT TO SKIP TO THE BIG FINISH, CLICK HERE

EDIT 7/7/12: CLICK HERE TO SEE THE UPGRADES I MADE TO THE HLT AND CONTROL PANEL




The 120v circuit in the diagram uses 14g wire and is protected by a 10 amp fuse. The element load uses 10g wire and is protected upstream from the control panel by a 30 amp 2 pole breaker in the home’s main breaker panel.

I’m going to use 80 ft of 10/3 with ground UF cable plugged into a 4 prong 30 amp receptacle mounted next to the home’s main breaker panel to run power out to a spa panel in the brew shed. The spa panel will provide GFCI protection to the e-brewery, and the e-brewery control panel will be hard wired into the spa panel with 10/3 with ground romex inside the shed.
You can read more here about wiring up the receptacle:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/how...er-box-276680/

Here are some pictures of my build as it progresses:

My used Hoffman 12x12x6 enclosure that I won in an Ebay auction for $26 plus $13 shipping:





I drilled/cut out the holes and painted it with some Rustoleum hammertone finish:



Here’s the control panel with the most of the components test fitted (later I did swap locations of the E-Stop and Main Power LED):



And here it is partially wired up. The SSR/Heat sink will go into the rectangular hole cut on the right hand side of the picture:



And here’s my shiny new 62 qt Bayou Classic kettle that will become my boil kettle. The keggle I’m using now will become my HLT.



Feedback on the wiring diagram and setup is encouraged. I hope to finish wiring it over the next couple days so I can start testing it and maybe do a test brew on it this weekend if I can get the elements drilled and wired up by then.

I’ll update this with new pictures as I make more progress.

Thanks,

Larry

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Old 11-14-2011, 08:36 PM   #2
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Nice work! Very clean.

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Old 11-14-2011, 08:46 PM   #3
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Where do the temp probes fit into the wiring diagram?

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Old 11-14-2011, 08:56 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sarrsipius View Post
Where do the temp probes fit into the wiring diagram?
There will be just 1 probe wired into 3,4, and 5 of the PID controller. The probe will be mounted in the HLT to monitor strike/sparge water temps. When I switch to the BK for the boil, I will switch the PID to manual mode the probe won't be used. I'll have a thermometer mounted to the boil kettle to read the wort temps during chilling.

Last edited by bigljd; 11-14-2011 at 09:29 PM. Reason: Made it more clear
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Old 11-14-2011, 09:50 PM   #5
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I had a similar question about the temp probe, I was wondering how you where planing on switching from one vessel to the next. Any reason why you are not going to install a locking XLR receptacle in your control panel like Kal did so when you switch from your HLT to your BK, you can simply swap the probes?

I've watched my neighbors boil kettle with run by the PID at a boil and it switches on and off quite often to maintain it at a low rolling boil. It might be quite a chore to manually run an element.

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Old 11-14-2011, 11:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bsquared View Post
I had a similar question about the temp probe, I was wondering how you where planing on switching from one vessel to the next. Any reason why you are not going to install a locking XLR receptacle in your control panel like Kal did so when you switch from your HLT to your BK, you can simply swap the probes?

I've watched my neighbors boil kettle with run by the PID at a boil and it switches on and off quite often to maintain it at a low rolling boil. It might be quite a chore to manually run an element.
I actually won't be manually running the element - the PID will be controlling the boil in manual mode. You don't need a probe in the boil kettle to run the element in manual mode, so switching of the probes isn't necessary. The probe will be in the HLT, and I'll switch over power to the BK and run the PID in manual mode at 50% or whatever is necessary to maintain a rolling boil.
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Old 11-16-2011, 01:24 AM   #7
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Default It's alive

It's alive! Last night I wired up the spa panel and finished wiring up the control panel. Tonight after triple checking the wiring I flipped on the power and to my amazement everything worked exactly as planned. No explosions, fireballs, or meltdowns!

I did some checks with my multimeter and all the voltages are correct, and the emergency stop immediately trips the GFCI in the spa panel, so I'm a happy camper.

Now I just need to mount the elements in the kettles and start testing everything under a full load.

Here's some pics:







More pics to come when everything is up and running!

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Old 11-16-2011, 01:35 AM   #8
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Awesome job LD. Can't wait to try the first electric brew!

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Old 11-16-2011, 01:53 AM   #9
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Looks great. Working on a very similar build.

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Old 11-16-2011, 05:39 PM   #10
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A question for you all - what's the best way to mount the heat sink on top of my control panel?
I have a rectangular hole cut out in the enclosure and the SSR slides thru the hole and is mounted to the heat sink (you can see it in the pictures a couple posts up). I tried some JB weld but it came undone when I was wrestling the control panel up on the wall trying to screw it into the wood. So now the heat sink is not secured to the enclosure - gravity is holding it in place but I'd feel more comfortable with it secured.

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