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Old 11-13-2012, 04:06 PM   #11
Jon73
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Since it's a phrase that I can't say often enough, nice box! I am finishing up a much simpler (for now) RIMS system myself. I hope to have as many buttons as you some day.

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Old 11-13-2012, 04:30 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon73
Since it's a phrase that I can't say often enough, nice box! I am finishing up a much simpler (for now) RIMS system myself. I hope to have as many buttons as you some day.
Haha...thanks!
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:36 PM   #13
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Did you use the contactor? Do you need the contactor?

Pete G

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Old 11-16-2012, 03:13 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by gForcex64
Did you use the contactor? Do you need the contactor?

Pete G
Yes and yes. A contactor is a type of relay so you don't necessarily have to use a contactor per se but you'll want to use some kind of relay. There are actually two contactors in the box; one for the main power, and one for the power to the element. The second is downstream of the first. Here's a link to a discussion that I found useful when I was researching the topic:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/how...3/index30.html
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Old 11-16-2012, 06:01 PM   #15
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One more question. Which switches did you use? 1NO/1NC or the 2 NO. SW1 or SW11, if you know the part #s?

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Old 11-16-2012, 07:50 PM   #16
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One more question. Which switches did you use? 1NO/1NC or the 2 NO. SW1 or SW11, if you know the part #s?
The switches have 2 N.O. contacts (SW1), but the only one that really needs to able to switch two components is the one for the main pump (The switch for "Pump 1" in my control panel). It switches power to the pump while simultaneously switching the PID's low voltage output to the SSR...effectively so that you cannot power your element unless your pump is on. You might already konw this, but the reason for wiring it like that is so you don't risk powering your element without liquid flowing through your RIMS tube. I think even having liquid idle in the tube can be trouble if the element is on...boiling/scorching I guess. But without any liquid it can ruin the element...my understanding is that it will burn itself out fairly quickly.

Anyway...I got just about all my parts from Auberins. Here you go:

Switches

SSR

Heat Sink

Temperature probe (with optional "deluxe" cable)
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:20 AM   #17
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looks fantastic! where did you get the labels for your control panel?

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Old 12-03-2012, 01:54 PM   #18
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looks fantastic! where did you get the labels for your control panel?
Thanks a lot! I got them here: http://www.binameplate.com/

I had never ordered electrical labels before so I don't know how their prices compare to others. But I really liked their site; walks you through a wizard for customizing your labels and shows you a preview, etc.
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:39 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by EvilBrewer View Post
The switches have 2 N.O. contacts (SW1), but the only one that really needs to able to switch two components is the one for the main pump (The switch for "Pump 1" in my control panel). It switches power to the pump while simultaneously switching the PID's low voltage output to the SSR...effectively so that you cannot power your element unless your pump is on.
for the pump: Is this equivalent to a DPST toggle switch? In the "off" position, no power is delivered anywhere. When in the "on" position, it completes both circuits?

For the other ones: do you have one contact that has nothing wired to it?
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:31 AM   #20
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for the pump: Is this equivalent to a DPST toggle switch? In the "off" position, no power is delivered anywhere. When in the "on" position, it completes both circuits?

For the other ones: do you have one contact that has nothing wired to it?
You are correct. The switches are all the same; most are only using one of their two contacts. There's also a third connection for each switch--which may not be completely clear from the diagram--that supplies power to the LED inside each button to illuminate it when it's in the "on" position.
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