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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > My FULL-ON electric build thread
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Old 03-16-2011, 01:01 AM   #41
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well... i use a much cheaper... say ghetto way to do this... i use two heating elements for my boil kettle (240 volts) with a dimmer switch for lights on each leg of 120. works ok for temp control for mashing. Though I just use straight connections for my boil kettle due to the fact that these dimmer switches cant really handle the wattage for that.
You lost me... ...a dimmer switch or do you mean a variac or maybe an infinite control thingamabob?
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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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Old 03-16-2011, 01:04 AM   #42
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should say mashing tun with the controls not boil kettle... indulging in a bit of homebrew.

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Old 03-16-2011, 01:09 AM   #43
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Though I just use straight connections for my boil kettle due to the fact that these dimmer switches cant really handle the wattage for that.
Does the dimmer work for you? Does it get hot? Most are not able to handle much more than 300-1000W, I think. I would think the triac inside would get mighty toasty with these higher powered heating elements.
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On Tap 1: Rootbeer, On Tap 2: NB White ouse Honey Ale, On Tap 3: Nitrogen, On Tap 4: Air, On Tap 5: Air
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"No sense having empty carboys around when full ones take up just as much space. " - Me
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Old 03-16-2011, 01:10 AM   #44
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The dimmer switch that is used for lighting in residential applications basically cuts voltage to the lights by rapidly shutting the voltage on and off and off at whatever speed you choose... i use these for the mashing tun to keep a relatively constant temperature.. though these dimmer switches cant handle high wattage so under 600 watts per leg of power is max.

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Old 03-16-2011, 01:13 AM   #45
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The dimmer switch that is used for lighting in residential applications basically cuts voltage to the lights by rapidly shutting the voltage on and off and off at whatever speed you choose... i use these for the mashing tun to keep a relatively constant temperature.. though these dimmer switches cant handle high wattage so under 600 watts per leg of power is max.
Still a bit confused... ...so if you turn them up too much then the dimmer switches melt or make pretty fireworks? Or they just don't work?
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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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Old 03-16-2011, 01:14 AM   #46
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like i was saying just maintaining the temperature an not for heating. otherwise i think they might melt. But i closely monitor it myself and only turn it on when the temp begins to drops because i have not built any kind of thermostat for it yet.

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Old 03-16-2011, 01:21 AM   #47
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they wont allow passage of enough electricity really to work past a certain point in my experience wont allow it to fully heat... though i am not 100 percent sure on the specfics of how this works... only a jack of all trades... but master of none.

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Old 03-16-2011, 03:16 AM   #48
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Looks good, but where's the picture of that "Sweet Wort" being boiled?
Here you go, fresh pictures from my brew currently in progress:

Steeping the grains.



And the boil rolling along. Built a $0.99 hop filter since this beer has quite a few ounces added. The 4500W element is kept at about 60-70% to maintain a nice rolling boil.

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Primaries: Air
Secondaries: Lakefront India Brown Ale

On Tap 1: Rootbeer, On Tap 2: NB White ouse Honey Ale, On Tap 3: Nitrogen, On Tap 4: Air, On Tap 5: Air
On Deck: DIPA, Imp Stout, Porter, Wheat, Black IPA

"No sense having empty carboys around when full ones take up just as much space. " - Me
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:44 PM   #49
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Here you go, fresh pictures from my brew currently in progress:

Steeping the grains.



And the boil rolling along. Built a $0.99 hop filter since this beer has quite a few ounces added. The 4500W element is kept at about 60-70% to maintain a nice rolling boil.

That's better.
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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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Old 03-28-2011, 03:49 PM   #50
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Default Element seal

@TheFlyingBeer - Q on your element design ... i just built mine up over the weekend and had some issues sealing the element-to-box cover transition tight enough to not leak without squishing out the silicon o-rings. Right now I've got one o-ring on the element, then thru the cover plate and another o-ring before screwing into the tri-FPT collar.

I'm wondering what you did ... I've seen a few different solutions - one used large washers to keep the o-rings in snug, another used hi-temp silicone sealant - which kinda defeats the purpose of the o-rings.

Tonight I may try not using the o-ring between the coupler and the box cover and see what happens. One caveat to using two o-rings ... the element housing is completely isolated, meaning ground does pass thru to the vessel which I discovered during ground test checkout.

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