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Old 03-29-2012, 04:20 AM   #1
Yevmeister
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Default my electric brew pot

over last few weeks i have been piecing together electric brewpot, i use 2 round coolers as a mash and liquer tan, it worked and fits perfectly since i just moved from a house to apartment

i sold my brew rig with propane burners to fund this project
i used:
7.5 steel brew kettle $60 shipped ebay
richmond 4500w 240vac element $10.28 menards
40A relay w/ heatsink $13 shipped ebay
acquarium pid $16 shipped ebay
home depot electric box $12
25Amp GFCI Cable $15 I bought a lot of seven, i still have some let me know if you are interested $25 shipped nationwide
dryer outlet $5
silicone ring w/ locknut $14 shipped from bargain fittings
pc molex cable, thermal paste
and 1 gang box with couple of covers ~2
dryer electric cord $10
= $157 total
i sold my 15 gallon brewpot from spikebrewing locally for $120

i have not polished the set up yet, but i just had a trial run to test things out













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Old 03-29-2012, 04:20 AM   #2
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more pics









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Old 03-29-2012, 04:21 AM   #3
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i would like to thank homebrewtalk members for providing me with great resources, and advice making this build possible

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Old 03-29-2012, 01:17 PM   #4
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Sorry in advance for the negative reply.

Those pictures are like lifting the skirt of an obese grandma with no panties. I can't help but look away. You need an electrician to come look at your work. Where do I start...

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Old 03-29-2012, 01:52 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goocher
Sorry in advance for the negative reply.

Those pictures are like lifting the skirt of an obese grandma with no panties. I can't help but look away. You need an electrician to come look at your work. Where do I start...
While not pretty, I don't see anything alarming or unsafe. Looks like a perfectly functional utilitarian build to me. Not everyone has money to build fancy shiny control panels with lighted switches and all...
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Old 03-29-2012, 02:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goocher View Post
Sorry in advance for the negative reply.

Those pictures are like lifting the skirt of an obese grandma with no panties. I can't help but look away. You need an electrician to come look at your work. Where do I start...
If you read my post I said that it was a hookup test, I am gonna seal the 1 gang box , and I plug my system in already prewired electric stove outlet

everything works great, Although I have a degree, I don't believe that people need to have specific title in order to qualify do silly electrical work like I did

yev
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Old 03-29-2012, 04:15 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yevmeister

If you read my post I said that it was a hookup test, I am gonna seal the 1 gang box , and I plug my system in already prewired electric stove outlet

everything works great, Although I have a degree, I don't believe that people need to have specific title in order to qualify do silly electrical work like I did

yev
You're right. For non-permanent installations, you can do as you like. Call me silly, but having exposed wiring with "kill you" kind of power around a pot of water, makes me nervous....

Had you "polished up" your wiring prior to testing, I would have been less apt to voice my opinion. I'm not rich and don't expect everyone to have fancy polished systems. But safety should be everyone's goal when dealing with this amount of current.

To offer a constructive piece of information, make sure to ground your outlet box. From what I can see, the ground goes directly to the outlet.

Edit: I have the exact same controller for my ferm chamber. I noticed your temperature sensor is in the water. Do you have anything protecting that? From what I remember, I don't think that's a sealed sensor.
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Old 03-29-2012, 05:04 PM   #8
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thanks for the grounding tip do you think i might have to paint the electric box if i were to ground to it, or its not necessary

as far as sensor, since the described application is for acquariums it would be submerged anyway

other than those two, i will report with further modifications soon

Yev

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Old 03-29-2012, 05:25 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Yevmeister View Post
thanks for the grounding tip do you think i might have to paint the electric box if i were to ground to it, or its not necessary

as far as sensor, since the described application is for acquariums it would be submerged anyway

other than those two, i will report with further modifications soon

Yev
Are you asking if you need to paint after grounding? No.

You got me on the aquarium NTC sensor. I guess in practicality it can be submerged but since it's a Chinese part, I can't find a specification sheet with details. The descriptions says -50 to +90 for the controller. After handling one myself, it doesn't feel like something that could be boiled. I may be wrong. I'd give it a taste test to see if it's leaching anything into the liquid. Boil some water in a tea pot and pour it into a glass with the sensor. Let it cool down, then taste it. If it tastes fine, then I guess I'm wrong...
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Old 03-29-2012, 05:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goocher

Are you asking if you need to paint after grounding? No.

You got me on the aquarium NTC sensor. I guess in practicality it can be submerged but since it's a Chinese part, I can't find a specification sheet with details. The descriptions says -50 to +90 for the controller. After handling one myself, it doesn't feel like something that could be boiled. I may be wrong. I'd give it a taste test to see if it's leaching anything into the liquid. Boil some water in a tea pot and pour it into a glass with the sensor. Let it cool down, then taste it. If it tastes fine, then I guess I'm wrong...
Seriously? You are telling someone to have an electrician check out their work and how life threatening their project is, and then advising them to boil something and then taste test the water to see if it is leeching chemicals into the water?


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