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Old 09-09-2012, 01:05 PM   #11
WroxBrew
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Here's a link to some relatively cheap 3/4" id silicon tubing you may be interested in. Good luck with the build. Your Kettle looks like it came from Stout tanks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370613846042...84.m1497.l2648

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Old 09-09-2012, 01:12 PM   #12
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Thanks for the link WroxBrew. I was talking with Derrin and Brewers Hardware, by the way this is where the kettle came from, and with the 3/4" barbs, he suggested just sliding the 1/2" ID silicone tubing, after heating up in hot water, over the barbs. I've ordered the 1/2 ID silicone tubing and if I find it to restrictive, I'll go the 3/4" ID route and use clamps on the barbs.

Jim

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Old 09-09-2012, 01:28 PM   #13
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Thanks for the link WroxBrew. I was talking with Derrin and Brewers Hardware, by the way this is where the kettle came from, and with the 3/4" barbs, he suggested just sliding the 1/2" ID silicone tubing, after heating up in hot water, over the barbs. I've ordered the 1/2 ID silicone tubing and if I find it to restrictive, I'll go the 3/4" ID route and use clamps on the barbs.

Jim
Interesting. I didn't think of that. I bought some 3/4 inch barbs, that tubing and have 2 of the same chuggers. I'll let you know how mine works out.
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Old 09-10-2012, 03:27 AM   #14
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doing something very similar- can't wait to see your progress!

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Old 09-10-2012, 03:03 PM   #15
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Here's how I anticipate brewing with my new system. First, all will be stationary on the SS cart, with the CCF chiller and chugger pump on the lower shelf. All components will be in line all the time. Coming from the brew kettle outlet to the CCF chiller to the chugger pump then to the top tri-clover in the kettle lid, recirculating constantly during the mash. Once mash out has been completed, the tri-clover will be taken off the lid and placed on the tangential inlet of the kettle. The bayou classic SS basket with bag/grains will be lifted and allowed to drain while turning up the electric element to boil. Recirculation will continue during the boil. Once the boil has completed and the electric element turned off, recirculation will continue into the tangential inlet while turning on cold tap water to the CCF chiller. Chilled wort will be recirculated back into the kettle constantly, creating a whirlpool until desired temp is reached in the kettle. Once ~70 degrees is achieved, let set for 15 minutes, then pump to SS Conical and pitch yeast.

These steps/plans are very much a rough draft and any input here would be very much welcomed.

Jim
Why would you recirculate during the entire boil?

Michael
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Old 09-10-2012, 03:38 PM   #16
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I may need to reconsider that. All connections will be intact and with the single-vessel, removing the Tri-Clamp on the lid after mashing is complete and then putting it on the tangential inlet would be all that is required. My thinking here was if the recirculation wasn't continued during the boil, my lines would have unboiled wort, but thinking about that, turning off the pump during the boil and then starting the recirculation 15 minutes before flame-out would purge the lines of unboiled wort and be enough to sterilize the C-CFC. Any other thoughts on this? I'm just trying to stick with the KISS philosophy.

Jim

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Old 09-10-2012, 04:00 PM   #17
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I'm going to post my problems and issues thread for my eBIAB system soon. One issue I ran into while recirculating during the mash was that at full open, the pump actually emptied the space under the basket and bag. I didn't notice and most likely dry fired the element for a while. Continued at a lower flow rate, basically a trickle.

Possible solutions are to use a coarser bag, or use the lower flow rate. Can't stop recirculating because I placed my temperature sensor inline after the kettle drain.

Just something to keep mind.

Edit: 9/11/2012 "recirculating during the boil" - mistake.

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Old 09-11-2012, 11:00 AM   #18
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Notkevinc, I would be interested in the problems you've encountered so far. I've done some research and your issue with recirculation is the one thing that worry's me. I've got a few ideas, but will have to test once I get my system together. Here's what I think I'll try first. Inside the basket, I'll place the bag, but also place a coned SS false bottom in the bottom AFTER I put the bag in, this would not allow the bottom of the bag to clog and should aid in recirculation at better volumes by keeping the grain above the bag mesh. Again, this is just a theory right now and I'll have to wait to see if it actually works.

Jim

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Old 09-11-2012, 12:09 PM   #19
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When you recirculate during your mash you don't want to be at WOT, I made that mistake as well and scorched a mash. (Ashtray Wit anyone?) Granted I was using HWD elements so I was probably asking for it. Now I recirculate pretty slowly and haven't had any issues, mash efficiency has stayed the same and I haven't run my kettle dry.

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Old 09-11-2012, 01:27 PM   #20
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I'm going to post my problems and issues thread for my eBIAB system soon. One issue I ran into while recirculating during the boil was that at full open, the pump actually emptied the space under the basket and bag. I didn't notice and most likely dry fired the element for a while. Continued at a lower flow rate, basically a trickle.

Possible solutions are to use a coarser bag, or use the lower flow rate. Can't stop recirculating because I placed my temperature sensor inline after the kettle drain.

Just something to keep mind.
BTDT, got the t-shirt.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/sin...38/index3.html

My conclusion after months of testing?

"Update: I don't recirc any more once I have mashed in and stabilized temp; had a couple of burned batches. Best I can figure, the pump was drawing faster than the wort was flowing through the grain bed (even though it was cranked down to a mere trickle) causing some cavitation under the basket resulting in an air pocket around the element allowing the wort to scorch. Now I simply heat to strike temp, dough in, circulate until temp stabilizes, stick the lid on, throw a blanket over it, and come back in 90 minutes. Normally don't lose more that 2 degrees over the 90 minute mash and haven't had a burnt batch since switching to this method."

YMMV
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