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Old 01-03-2013, 01:50 AM   #11
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Here is my rats nest of a control panel with everything in it. So there weren't any exposed wires hanging around I plugged the ones that will go to the pump into a double outlet I had laying around. Need to get that outlet I want and then do some clean up. img_1388.jpg

And here is the front/top of the panel with the RTD probe dipped in an ice bath. It's reading at 33* but that's ice cubes not crushed ice. Should probably check it at boiling. And compare to some other thermometers I have laying around at mash temp. img_1389.jpg

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Old 01-03-2013, 01:52 AM   #12
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So I guess up next that means getting the kettle in working order with the RTD and heating element mounted. Also need to make an input for the recirculating wort during the mash.

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Old 01-10-2013, 07:38 PM   #13
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Alright, it's kettle time!
img_1390.jpg

Need three holes in the kettle, the one on the left is an 1.25" for the element and the others are for the ballvalve and the RTD prode. I had a friend help with the 1.25" hole because he had a bimetal hole saw and it punched through easy.
img_1391.jpg

I used an old step bit for the other two holes and it went poorly. Midwest lists this kettle as "not available for drilling" and I'm wondering if it is because of how thin it is which caused it to cave in the kettle walls under the pressure of drilling. That and the step bit was kind of murdered going through a couple 16 gallon kegs in it's last endeavour. Either way the holes needed some clean up.
img_1393.jpg

I got a 1" SS locknut online through amazon for around $9. Using that, and the gasket that came with the camco element to attach it.
img_1395.jpg

And the element is in!
img_1396.jpg

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Old 01-10-2013, 10:24 PM   #14
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SS Ball Valve, lock nuts and a 90* elbow for a diptube.
img_1399.jpg

Dip tube is in, hopefully this works out well. Had a copper diptube last time around and figured I'd give this a go.
img_1400.jpg

Everything on the inside. I got this element as a X-mas gift. I wanted ULWD but they got the wrong thing so we'll see how this goes.
img_1401.jpg

On the outside. Kind of wishing I had put the element and RTD Probe on the same side.
img_1402.jpg

Using this simple barb on the top of the kettle for the recirculation return. May switch it up or add to it.
img_1403.jpg

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Old 01-11-2013, 01:27 PM   #15
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Looking good! Have you done a leak test?

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Old 01-14-2013, 07:47 PM   #16
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did a leak test over night and we are up and running

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Old 01-14-2013, 10:04 PM   #17
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My boil kettle also has a elbow for a dip tube....works well!

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Old 01-15-2013, 01:45 PM   #18
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I hate to be a party pooper, but I suspect this element will scorch your beer. I used a 4500w element that probably had a similar watt density and my beer tasted like burnt porridge. I suggest you invest in a new one before spoiling a whole batch of beer.

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Old 02-08-2013, 06:02 PM   #19
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Great build
Trying to decide how to connect element. How did you finish your element attachment. Did you bond the ground wire someway to the kettle ? Most of these builds use the Kal box method or some variation but others have smaller PVC type covering system. Just wondering how you approached this.

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Old 06-20-2014, 07:55 PM   #20
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Resurrecting this one...

I'm also working of off jrb03's build but, like the OP, am planning to use a plastic box for the controller. Also, I'm new to electric stuff so I apologize if this is really obvious. Does the plastic box need to be grounded and, if so, how do you do it?

Cheers!

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