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inhousebrew · 01-02-2013, 08:40 PM

Alright so it's finally that time. After reading multiple threads on here I think I'm ready to go. I'm setting up an eBIAB system very much like jbr03's 2.5 gallon 110volt system. While it is pretty similar I am not following everything to the tee. Here's a sneak peak at my awesome Microsoft paint wiring diagram. I posted it on here a while back and think it should work? The only changes I made were adding a third switch to the diagram as the main power switch which goes from the the incoming power cord and the terminal bar thingy.

inhousebrew · 01-02-2013, 09:03 PM

Here is a rundown of the main parts. I've pieced this together over time so it's kind of all over the place. Also got a few things for free from gift cards, my birthday and Christmas so that also attributed to the diversity of stores.

Kettle:
Midwest Supplies
• 7.5 Gallon Stainless Steel Kettle: 13 ½” high, 123/4” wide: $70
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/stainless-steel-kettle-with-handles-and-lid-7-5-gallon.html

Northern Brewer (ball valve and diptube)
• ½” SS Ball Valve: $21
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/review/product/list/id/1300/category/36/
• 90* ½” SS Elbow for dip tube: $10
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/s-s-elbow-1-2-male-x-fem.html
• Weldless Adapter: $11
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/weldless-adapter-for-1-2-mpt-thermometers.html

Pump: $75

US Solar Pumps
• SS Pump: $75
http://www.ussolarpumps.com/onlinestore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_22&produc ts_id=32

Temp Regulation:

Auber
• PID: SYL 2352: $45
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_ id=3
• Liquid Tight RTD Sensor: $35
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&produ cts_id=246

Amazon
• 40A SSR and Heatsink: $12
http://www.amazon.com/DC-AC-Solid-State-Relay-Heatsink/dp/B005K2IXHU/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1355152467&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=25A+ssr+and+heatsing
• Camco 1500W Screw in element: $9
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02143-1500-Screw-Element/dp/B0006IX89Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1355153326&sr=8-4&keywords=120v+water+heating+element

Wiring Dohickies:

Target:
• Plastic storage box: $3
http://www.target.com/p/sterilite-clip-box-set-of-4-green-medium/-/A-13487783?reco=Rec|pdp|13487783|ClickCP|item_page.v ertical_1&lnk=Rec|pdp|ClickCP|item_page.vertical_1

Home depot
• (3) Gardner Bender single pole 20 amp toggle switches: $12
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100030219/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=20+amp+toggle+switch&storeId=10051#speci fications
• (1) 15 Amp Outlet: $3
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202066674/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=15amp+outlet&storeId=10051&superSkuId=20 2887036#.UN4UIG8SffI
• Gardner Bender 22 - 10 AWG 30-Amp 600-Volt 6-Circuit Terminal Block: $6
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202522482/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=terminal+block&storeId=10051#.UN4JEG8Sff I
• 16 awg wire: $5 for 25’ (bought a red and black)
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202206417/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=16+gauge+wire&storeId=10051#.UN4RT28Sf fI
• An assortment of spade terminals, butt splices, heat shrink, electrical tape and probably a few other things.
Menards
• 12-3, 25’ Extension cord: $21
http://www.menards.com/main/p-1908971-c-6410.htm

inhousebrew · 01-02-2013, 09:09 PM

Here is most of the stuff laid out. I still need to get the outlet for the pump but other than that this is most of it.

Here is me already making a mistake. I couldn't find the box cutter so the exacto knife came through in a pinch although that cheap plastic bin was a bit thicker than I thought.

pid is in!

I pre drilled the holes for the toggle switches and am using a 1/2" step bit to finish them up

And they're in. The big one with the cover is the main power switch just because it looks cool. Other ones are for the pump and the element.

inhousebrew · 01-02-2013, 09:19 PM

This is everything on the inside. Yep, tight squeeze. Well, I guess I should have listened to the advice and gotten something bigger than what I thought would work....

Some chopped up extension cord

Crimping is fun. Never really done much of it before.

And since everything was all ready to go I decided to take it out and slap some primer on it.

And red was the only spray paint we had laying around so I guess the control box is going to be red.

inhousebrew · 01-02-2013, 09:29 PM

And now we're getting somewhere! And that somewhere is an incredibly tight little space. It's hard to see but the incoming power is the yellow cord on the right. That runs through the middle toggle switch to the terminal block to the element toggle switch on the right to the SSR and back out to the outgoing cord.

Crossing my fingers, double checked the wiring and plugged it in. Flip the main power. I'm still alive. Flip the element switch. Still alive. And the light is on! Great success!

Or is it? Just to test this out I plugged in the drill I had laying around and tried to use it. Nothing. Not only nothing but every time I tried to use it the light on the end of the extension cord actually switched off. Any ideas?

**stlbeer** · 01-02-2013, 10:19 PM

Do you have the PID control circuit hooked up the SSR and do you have a temp sensor attached to the PID?

inhousebrew · 01-02-2013, 10:32 PM

Nope. The PID is not yet installed. I thought I would do that last. Shouldn't the outlet still work though? I thought I would check that before moving forward. Or maybe not? Does the SSR need the PID to be hooked up to work?

**stlbeer** · 01-03-2013, 12:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by inhousebrew

Nope. The PID is not yet installed. I thought I would do that last. Shouldn't the outlet still work though?

Not if the SSR is in the circuit. There will be a few mA leaking through the SSR, but it's normal state is open.

If you have a multi-meter, you should be able to detect 120v across the SSR, however, due that leakage, but no enough to power an element.

Quote:

Originally Posted by inhousebrew

I thought I would check that before moving forward. Or maybe not? Does the SSR need the PID to be hooked up to work?

The SSR needs the PID to turn on the control circuit and the PID needs the temperature sensor in order to work.

**wilserbrewer** · 01-03-2013, 12:16 AM

Wow nice build....wish I had your industrious nature, I simply pull the plug at strike temp and insulate the kettle and pray to the beer gods...

inhousebrew · 01-03-2013, 01:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wilserbrewer

Wow nice build....wish I had your industrious nature, I simply pull the plug at strike temp and insulate the kettle and pray to the beer gods...

Lol! I hear if you just leave the beer gods some virgin beer sacrifices this normally works out. More seriously though thanks for the comments. I don't like messing with insulation and then I saw a couple threads on here that got me thinking and I decided if I wanted to do this I should do it. At the very least it will help me learn about electronics a little more. I like diving into these projects I know almost nothing about to so that I can read up a bit and then put what I've learned to the test. The last one started as fixing a flat tire and I wound up disassembling my entire bike and then upgrading a bunch of components. Projects tend to snowball on me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by stlbeer

The SSR needs the PID to turn on the control circuit and the PID needs the temperature sensor in order to work.

This makes sense now that it is all together! Thanks for that, it seems to be working now that I've plugged in everything.