I have been wanting to go electric for a long time now. I have been accumulating parts and finally decided on using the BCS-460 for control. Please don't try to change my mind, it has already been purchased! I still have a long way to go so let's start with the wiring diagram.
The system will use the vessels that I currently use to brew 10 gal batches. It will be a HERMS setup with 5500W elements in the HLT and BK. I am only bringing 40 amps from the panel so it is being designed with the intent of only having one element on at a time.
I am no electrician. At least I'm not showing you the version I did in crayon! Luckily my brew partner is an electrician and will ok everything once we get closer to completion.
The E-stop switch I have has NC and NO contacts. In my updated diagram the NC controls the contactor and when opened the 2 hot lines are disconnected (this was my original plan). After reading the above thread I decided to use the NO contact, so that when closed will trickle current to ground and trip the GFCI breaker in my panel. I like this as it shuts it down at the source and not only inside the panel. I was thinking of adding this dual shut down as a sort of fail safe (blown fuse, contactor problem, ?).
So what do you think about this idea? Is it overkill? Is there going to be a problem?
Yeah. After taking the better part of a year to collect the parts I have started to build. Just a little slow at updating this thread!
I have updated the wiring diagram (again). Just some slight changes with the main switch - instead of only controlling the BCS power supply it controls the main contactor providing power to the panel. Here is the updated pic:
I started with the panel first. I went with a Budd Industries NEMA 4x ABS enclosure. I chose this based on it being water-tight, easy to drill, and easy on the wallet. Dimensions are 19.7" x 15.7" - figured this would be plenty big with room for expansion (e.g.: valve control) later. As it turns out things will be pretty tight anyway! I mounted all the switches and LEDs on the door. The best thing for drilling this box was a step bit. Spade bits work too. I did need to use hole saws for some of the larger holes but the melting plastic and fumes probably took a few years off my life!
You can see the holes where the L6-30 receptacles will be going. The other 3 smaller holes are for the L5-15 outlets. These won't be flange outlets but regular round outlets fitted and sealed with silicone. I couldn't justify the price difference here. No hole for power IN yet - it is not totally ironed out yet and I want to make sure I use the right size gland (not springing for a NEMA connector..).
I started mounting things in the box. Contactors are 40A with 120V coil (Ebay), Eurostyle terminal blocks, 3AG fuse holders, 4-relay board for the pumps and HLT stirrer (Ebay). The heatsinks (40A external from Auberins) are mounted on the top with the SSRs attached:
I've mounted a few more things since taking the pics: XLR connectors for temp probes and a pass through panel mount RJ45 connector. These come in near the BCS. Oh, and the outlets for elements and pumps at the bottom are in place.
Where did you buy the box from? I like the idea of a plastic enclosure if the price is right (no worries of it melting and burning if it being monitored.) Looks like you have a ton of room in there for expansion too.
Love the build, nice wiring diagrams too. I know I'm getting obsessed with the electric part of this hobby when I'm staring at wiring diagrams for 10 minutes at a time, I love it!
But I see that it also says the 8-relay version needs an external power supply. Or is that just for the 12V version?? The datasheet I found for the relays says they need 89.3mA each (Ebay seller says 71.4mA), the BCS can put out 300mA, so it sounds borderline. But then at that same link it says "The following relays have a transistor booster on the input, which virtually eliminates the current requirement of the coil. This means that a BCS 5vdc 20ma output can easily switch the relay." I guess some testing is in order.
I don't understand the comment about having the fuses after the relays. Shouldn't they be before the board to protect the board and the pumps?