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Old 10-29-2012, 05:17 AM   #31
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and here i used the Kal method to mount the heating element and covered the cable with braided hose. turned out pretty good

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Old 10-29-2012, 05:29 AM   #32
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sorry about the sideways pictures, not sure why it keeps doing that. I've also included the code i've written up for the BCS. I worked on programming it today and got it all uploaded onto the unit, i think it all makes sense. There was one post in specific on the ECC forum which helped me a great deal.

File Type: pdf BCS program.pdf (70.1 KB, 228 views)
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Old 10-29-2012, 01:57 PM   #33
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Which post was that? That is my final step remaining is getting the bcs programmed

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Old 10-29-2012, 07:22 PM   #34
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since my new brewery is 2 vessel i was able to use a lot of what this guy did:

http://www.embeddedcontrolconcepts.c...6cc2c7f19b0731

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Old 12-03-2012, 12:44 AM   #35
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So finished off the last few items on my list over the last few weeks and got all the final wiring done yesterday. I turned it on yesterday and everything seemed ok, so since everything seemed to be in working order i thought it would be a good idea to do a water trial today. Before doing the trial i had to update the web interface on the panel PC (it has an old version of IE on it). While in the process of doing this, i heard a pop in the panel and everything except the blue main power light died. first reaction, OH SH!T !!!!! after disconnecting the power i opened it up and started looking around, i was hoping it was one of the quick blow fuses for either the BCS or the panel. So i changed the fuse, connected the power and tried to turn it on again. The blue Main power light turned on but nothing else happened. So now I'm thinking to myself, ok time to see where there is and isnt power flowing. So with a pen style voltmeter i quickly started testing wires and low and behold it looks like i somehow blew the coil on the first contactor (the one which lets power into the enclosure and goes to everything else). So that was a HUGE relief. Now the question remains how did i blow the contactor coil???? Thoughts? I had a similar setup on my old system and never blew the coil, maybe it was just a faulty contactor, cuz if i'm not mistaken the coil should last for something like a million throws. If anyone has any other ideas please advise.

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Old 12-03-2012, 12:54 AM   #36
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What was the contactor coil rated voltage? It was rated as 120V (or mis labeled) and powered with 240V - done deal.

Edit: Or just plain bad component.

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Old 12-03-2012, 01:03 AM   #37
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P-J thanks for the quick response, it was labeled as a 240V contactor with 120V coil. If the key switch which activates the coil is pulling voltage from one of the input legs could it be that it drawing more than 120V?

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Old 12-03-2012, 01:10 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hammis View Post
P-J thanks for the quick response, it was labeled as a 240V contactor with 120V coil. If the key switch which activates the coil is pulling voltage from one of the input legs could it be that it drawing more than 120V?
I believe if the coil was powered from one line of the 240V power and Neutral the contactor was defective as 120V was being delivered to its coil.

Before you order a new one, just meter the coil input power to see what is being delivered. It just takes a moment and you will know for sure.

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Old 12-03-2012, 01:15 AM   #39
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ok thanks P-J, i'll check it out tonight and see what the multimeter reads

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Old 12-03-2012, 03:15 AM   #40
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So i checked out some of the wiring with a multimeter and the coil hot to neutral leg read 120V so it makes me feel a bit better. When i checked continuity of the coil it read infinity, meaning it is actually pooched. So i guess i'll be ordering a new relay and hopefully everything will be ok once that gets replaced.

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