Happy HolidaySs Giveaway - Winners Re-Re-Re-Re-Drawn - 24 hours to Claim!

Get your HBT Growlers, Shirts and Membership before the Rush!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > modulating 4500w heatstick
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 12-18-2013, 03:46 AM   #11
johns
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: warrenville, illinios
Posts: 463
Liked 34 Times on 32 Posts
Likes Given: 35

Default

Well its just a good question.. I plan to build one of these soon and want to keep informed.

I was also going to email http://www.stilldragon.com/diy-controller.html for more info on the specifications to this build like, what are the parameters for the potentiometer and I am assuming that its a 40 amp ssr. I did not see this info listed on the link given.

What about some kind of breaker?

__________________

Beauty lies in the hands of the beer holder
WC Fields
Kegged: two heartednot, cascade, ale, pumpkin ale, rye ale.
Bottled: Mambo in your mouth,
Primary: imperal brown
Secondary: two hearednot, 2 fisted IPA, chimay white, breakfast stout

johns is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-18-2013, 05:51 PM   #12
jCOSbrew
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 620
Liked 38 Times on 34 Posts
Likes Given: 8

Default

If you buy the kit it includes the SSVR and the pot. The SSVR will have a spec for the resistance range and watt rating of the potentiometer.

__________________
jCOSbrew is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-18-2013, 10:37 PM   #13
BadWolfBrewing
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: South Bend, IN
Posts: 448
Liked 59 Times on 42 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

You want both over current protection and ground fault protection. A 30a gfci breaker will do both.

I got a spa panel that has a 50a gfci. The wiring I used is 10g so I added a DIN mounted 30a breaker as well.

__________________
BadWolfBrewing is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-15-2014, 09:44 PM   #14
F_R_O_G
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: north Seattle, wa
Posts: 150
Liked 9 Times on 9 Posts
Likes Given: 7

Default

fyi, the one listed does not come with a heatsink, damn china sales

__________________
F_R_O_G is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-11-2014, 06:24 PM   #15
mswebb
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 41
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

Don't know if this is reviving an old thread or beating a dead horse...

I have an electric setup which I would like to add variable output control to one element.

Here's my current system.

60amp breaker in panel goes to 60amp spa panel.
Spa panel connects to control box with 4 on/off switches controlling 4 SSRs (interlocked so that only two switches will activate at a time)
SSRs connect to 5500 watt elements - 2 in HLT, 2 in boil kettle

The issue I have is that 2 elements in my boil kettle are needed to get to boil. Once at boil, 2 is too many, 1 is just enough. I'd like to add a portion of the second element to get a better boil without over doing it.

Can I use the stilldragon kit in the post below and add it inline between the main control panel and the element. If the main panel is off, then there will be no power, but when it is on I can then control the output. I'd like to keep the main panel with the interlocked switches as it is if possible.



Quote:
Originally Posted by BadWolfBrewing View Post
Warning, pedantic explanation ahead...

An SSVR has an impact on the net power flow to the load, but its direct action is to control the flow of current from source to the load (either block or allow, more or less).

An SSVR is a triac circuit, like a dimmer, based on two antiparallel thyristors.

The potentiometer controls the phase angle at which the switch will 'close' and allow current to conduct. Once the current reaches zero, which will always happen in an AC system, the switch automatically opens again until it receives the control signal that says close again. The potentiometer, in conjuction with a built in IC, provides that control signal. How long the circuit waits into the voltage AC cycle to send the 'close' command depends on the resistance of the potentiometer

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Triac_funktion.gif

The switch only regulates when your load is or isn't connected to the power source.

Stilldragon has a cheap kit people seem happy with. Cheap, easy, gets the job done.

http://www.stilldragon.com/diy-controller.html


I'd add a suitably rated switch, as the SSVR will likely allow some small amount of power flow even with the potentiometer railed. Doesn't need to be a fancy relay, this will work fine:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-3...2WS/100356941#

The stilldragon kit and that switch, IMHO, is the easiest way to safely control the heating element. Naturally, you need a GFCI protected circuit as well.
__________________
mswebb is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-11-2014, 06:31 PM   #16
Brumateur
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Brumateur's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 411
Liked 50 Times on 48 Posts
Likes Given: 20

Default

Yes it possible. Not a most efficient solution but it will work.

__________________

Keep it simple.

Brumateur is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-11-2014, 06:51 PM   #17
mswebb
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 41
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

Thanks. I assumed it would work but this is the first electrical modification I will be making by myself. Had an electrician build the basic controller panel to my spec. I'm confident I will be able to sort out the connections for the secondary variable switch.

__________________
mswebb is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
70 gallons with 2 x 4500w dirtyal Electric Brewing 13 11-13-2012 01:41 AM
2x 4500W elements? worstbrewing Electric Brewing 56 04-20-2012 06:25 PM
4500W for 5 Gal. Overkill? bikesnbeers Electric Brewing 20 01-18-2012 10:03 PM
Modulating Gas Valve kmroepke Equipment/Sanitation 4 02-07-2008 07:47 PM



Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS