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Old 04-02-2013, 03:45 AM   #1
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Default Modified P-J design, need verification

Here's a design I took from the illustrious P-J and modified it a bit. Thank you very much for the original drawing, P-J, and thanks to jtkratzer for letting me stand on your shoulders for this build.

I just want to make sure that I didn't change anything to make it unsafe or unworkable.

Original drawing name: Auberin-wiring1-a11d-RM-SYL-2352-5500w dated 05/08/2012.

Original thread here

Changes made to the original drawing:
* 25a DIN-mounted breakers changed to 30a
* 240v element power lights changed to 120v
* SW1 switches changed to SW11 switches
* Added an SW2 switch to the HLT side of the alarm setup, so there would be individual off/on switches for each PID
* Changed the numbers of the SW2 switch connections
* Designated the 1A fuse going to the E-stop as "fast blow"
* Swapped the boil kettle stuff to the left and the HLT stuff to the right (no biggie)
* Changed the color of the illuminated switches (big freaking deal, I know)

And that's it.

I am also planning on adding two RTD temperature displays, one for the MLT and one for the chiller. I'm planning on adding these to the circuit that is powering the PIDs. There won't be any switches for them. I don't think that there is much chance of them overloading that circuit.

And I'm going to be installing float switches in the positive side of SSR circuits (between the PIDs and SSRs) to stop the SSRs from firing if the float switches say that there's not enough liquids in the kettle or HLT.

So please let me know if I'm doing anything wrong with this. Thanks!



Link to the full-size drawing here in case the image doesn't show up

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Last edited by LandoLincoln; 04-02-2013 at 04:11 AM. Reason: Added float switch info
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Old 04-02-2013, 04:14 AM   #2
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Really nice job.!
Congrats.

P-J

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Old 04-02-2013, 08:54 AM   #3
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Good idea on the float switches. They will work fine in that configuration if they are NO (normally open).

If you are using the stainless ones with the M10 thread - can I ask how what you are doing for a washer to seal the connection? Thanks.

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Old 04-02-2013, 03:14 PM   #4
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Really nice job.!
Congrats.

P-J
I couldn't have done this project without you. Thanks for your seal of approval.
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:21 PM   #5
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Good idea on the float switches. They will work fine in that configuration if they are NO (normally open).

If you are using the stainless ones with the M10 thread - can I ask how what you are doing for a washer to seal the connection? Thanks.
I haven't drilled the hole for them yet, but the SS Auber Instruments float switches come with a clear silicon flat washer and a locknut. I'll probably drill that this weekend and see how water tight it is. The end of the float switch where the wires come out is sealed shut with some clear epoxy. It looks like it would be pretty waterproof.
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:25 PM   #6
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I haven't drilled the hole for them yet, but the SS Auber Instruments float switches come with a clear silicon flat washer and a locknut. I'll probably drill that this weekend and see how water tight it is. The end of the float switch where the wires come out is sealed shut with some clear epoxy. It looks like it would be pretty waterproof.
Hi,

I have a buring question for you regarding the Auber Instruments Float Switch Model: FSW1. The info on the Auber web site states that the switch is N/C when it is installed as shown (float at the bottom). They also say that if you want the action reversed the float switch has to be mounted with the float pointing up.

I have this idea buzzing around in my head that if you pull the bottom "C" clip and flip the actual float & then reclip it - the action of the switch will be reversed. i.e. it now becomes a N/O switch when the float is at the bottom. If this is true, the switch now becomes a superior product for our use. It sure would make your install a less cumbersome possibility.

Could you test out my theory and let me know? Please?

P-J
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:44 PM   #7
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Hi,

I have a buring question for you regarding the Auber Instruments Float Switch Model: FSW1. The info on the Auber web site states that the switch is N/C when it is installed as shown (float at the bottom). They also say that if you want the action reversed the float switch has to be mounted with the float pointing up.

I have this idea buzzing around in my head that if you pull the bottom "C" clip and flip the actual float & then reclip it - the action of the switch will be reversed. i.e. it now becomes a N/O switch when the float is at the bottom. If this is true, the switch now becomes a superior product for our use. It sure would make your install a less cumbersome possibility.

Could you test out my theory and let me know? Please?

P-J
Yes, I could try that. I'll let you know the results sometime this week.
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:15 PM   #8
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@P-J, it's a good observation. I believe the design of these sensors is that there is an internal reed switch in the arm and the float contains a ring magnet with S on end and and N on the other. So by reversing the float you should reverse the action of the switch from NC to NO.

See e.g. http://www.flow-network.com/mechanical_float_level_switch_nc.html

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Old 04-03-2013, 03:50 PM   #9
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It looks like your design allows you to enable the contactors for Boil and HLT at the same time. Not a good idea since your input power is limited to 30amps.

Consider using a 3-way switch to select Boil OR HLT and enable the appropriate contactor.

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Old 04-03-2013, 04:19 PM   #10
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It looks like your design allows you to enable the contactors for Boil and HLT at the same time. Not a good idea since your input power is limited to 30amps.

Consider using a 3-way switch to select Boil OR HLT and enable the appropriate contactor.
The power input is 50A feeding a set of circuit breakers for the different functions. The input power is not limited to 30A.
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