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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Mistakes I made while attempting Kals Electric build
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Old 10-29-2012, 11:21 AM   #21
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A&G Homebrew supply (Portsmouth, NH) has an enclosed pipe system. I dont think I took a picture of it but he did a masterful job of designing it. Depending on what he is doing, the liquid may be flowing different directions through the same valves. He also only uses one pump (gravity from HLT cuts out the second). If I took a picture I will post it. If not, I will email him and ask for one.

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Old 10-30-2012, 02:05 AM   #22
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4) This system is not "cheating." Maybe somewhere in the back of my mind, I thought that if I built this system, somehow that would help me become a good brewer. Nope... only studying, experimenting, experience, and time can do that. It is fun to flip the switches though..
Well said. I have taken notes of each brew day and learn a lot from each round. Figuring out how the system reacts to different actions is a delicate thing. The more you introduce to a brew day the more that go wrong. I knew I would have a learning curve, but I would agree that it was a lot larger than I expected.
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Old 11-05-2012, 03:35 AM   #23
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One aspect of ky learning curve is my strike temp. It takes awhile to get back to mash temp if I strike too low but it also takes awhile to cool down if too hot. Really seems like something I need to nail down.

Any thoughts? 5 degrees? 10? 2 degrees per 4 lbs of grain? Im sure there is a good way to make educated guesses instead of just winging it.

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Old 11-05-2012, 04:14 AM   #24
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Promash has a calculator that takes into account the thermal mass of your tun and the temperature for the lbs of grain you have. It's pretty close for my system.

I'm willing to bet other calculators are available as well.

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Old 11-05-2012, 11:06 AM   #25
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BeerSmith 2.0 gives a decent estimate of what temp your water needs to be given the quantity of water, grains, material of your tun, size, and ambient temperatures. Easy enough...
-Kevin

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2014:
5gal Scottish Wee Heavy
5gal Saison
15gal American Pale Ale
20gal Belgian Wit
10gal Oktoberfest
10gal Southern Pecan Ale

Keg 1: Apfelwein
Keg 2: Oktoberfest
Keg 3: Southern Pecan

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Old 11-05-2012, 03:21 PM   #26
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Are those both ipad apps,computer software, or web calculators?

Anything good for the Android system? I have BrewAide but it only seems to work if I have preformatted recipes to import.

Sorry if this discussion derails the real purpose of the thread a bit.

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Old 11-05-2012, 04:46 PM   #27
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BeerSmith is a PC program that will cover your brew from the ingredients through to the finished drink. Not sure if there's a simple Android app.

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5gal Saison
15gal American Pale Ale
20gal Belgian Wit
10gal Oktoberfest
10gal Southern Pecan Ale

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Keg 2: Oktoberfest
Keg 3: Southern Pecan

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Old 11-07-2012, 02:02 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewBrewB
One aspect of ky learning curve is my strike temp. It takes awhile to get back to mash temp if I strike too low but it also takes awhile to cool down if too hot. Really seems like something I need to nail down.

Any thoughts? 5 degrees? 10? 2 degrees per 4 lbs of grain? Im sure there is a good way to make educated guesses instead of just winging it.
Just curious if you have checked out Kal's brew day section. I am assuming you have, but if not it is pretty detailed. His suggestions are right on the money.
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:35 PM   #29
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I have tried to refer to it but usually get annoyed that it isnt mobile friendly...

It would be much better if I could download a .pdf with the whole thing, or at least the option to load the whole page at one time. Trying to find info piecemeal on 20 different web pages is pretty irritating.

I'll take another look when I can.

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Old 01-05-2013, 09:43 PM   #30
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At the request of another brewer, I'm posting the measurements I used to do my keggle conversions.

First off, I wish I had done the kegs inverted--just a much cleaner/more efficient drain process for cleaning....but I didn't.

From the bottom rim of the keg to the center of the hole for the element(s) = 4" Could probably have gotten away with 3.5" but I was conservative.

My coil was a dissaster, so I placed my holes for the ball valves on each end where I thought they would be up off the element but low enough to stay submerged. My advice--DO NOT CUT YOUR HOLES UNTIL YOU HAVE THE COIL THERE TO MEASURE AND MAKE SURE IT IS LINED UP. (Also, if they are staggered, make sure you don't measure and punch your holes backwards...for instance, mine were top right & bottom left but should have been top left and bottom right....fixed it by using the extra lower hole for my dip tube and punched a new hole way to the right for the other coil valve...
From the bottom of the keg to the low coil valve = 7.5 "
From the bottom of the keg to the high coil valve = 13.5"

Here are a few more photos...kinda blurry because of the flash with the reflective stainless. If you have questions, I'll do my best to help.

Hmm.. having trouble uploading. Going to reboot then post.

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