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Old 06-25-2012, 02:59 PM   #11
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I have a pair of 240V 40A Auber contractors if you (or anyone else) needs them.

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Old 06-25-2012, 03:09 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtkratzer
I have a pair of 240V 40A Auber contractors if you (or anyone else) needs them.
I could definitely use them!
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Old 06-26-2012, 02:37 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P-J
Both of those contactors are double pole & are rated for switching 240V 40A. One has a 120V coil and the other a 240V coil.

They will work just fine for your setup. Just energize their pick coils appropriately.
Thanks p-j!
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:04 AM   #14
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Drilled holes before receiving the parts in the mail....

I recommend buying all "like" parts at the same time. I bought my doorbell transformers and variable output transformers at different times but went ahead and started drilling holes based on the sizes of the first one to arrive. Even though they are the same model and (I think) from the same seller, they were slightly diff sizes. Had to get creative when it came time to mount them.

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Old 08-12-2012, 04:39 PM   #15
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Question...

Working on the wiring. The two doorbell transformers each have pos/neutral/ground wires coming out. My question is about whether each of them should get connected separately back to the bus or if I can connect the ends of both transformers' hot wires to a third black wire that runs to the hot bus.

(same with neutral...both transformers' neutral wires to a third white wire connected with a twist connector and then the third white wire goes to the neutral bus.)

I cant upload photos so maybe this helps:

Positive (black)
Volt doorbell transformer-------\twist connect________hot bus
Amp doorbell transformer------/

Neutral (white)
Volt doorbell transformer-------\twist connect_____neutral bus
Amp doorbell transformer------/

Thanks

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Old 08-15-2012, 12:40 PM   #16
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Thanks Huaco for answering this question in a PM


As for more "mistakes"... I wish I had placed the hot and neutral buses further from each other because I didnt have much space for the jumpers. I got it done with about 1" of space but the jumpers overlap quite a bit.

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Old 08-15-2012, 06:33 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewBrewB
Thanks Huaco for answering this question in a PM

As for more "mistakes"... I wish I had placed the hot and neutral buses further from each other because I didnt have much space for the jumpers. I got it done with about 1" of space but the jumpers overlap quite a bit.
Just out of curiosity what did you go with? I would think it wouldn't be a problem, but I definitely am not the person for electrical help.


One mistake I made in the wiring process, although not a mistake, was to wire most of the front panel lights and switches back to the buses individually. I didn't read the part about connecting them until I was about 75% done. You can only imagine he rats nest inside.
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Old 08-18-2012, 08:36 PM   #18
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Sorry for the slow response...went with wire nuts but also soldered each set of three wires together. I think that should work out alright. I guess I will let you know once I get an outlet installed and plug it in.

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Old 10-29-2012, 03:38 AM   #19
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I haven't updated this in awhile.... Wanted to add a couple of comments.

1) The coil. The absolute hardest part of this entire process was getting the coil mounted inside the HLT. So I used a Keg... big deal. I don't care if you have a keggle or a $500 blichman--this part is tough. Hell, just coiling the thing was excruciating. My advice is if you are even considering building kal's brewery, START with the HLT. If you can get through that without losing your mind, this project is for you.

2) Consider ventilation. I cut this corner and filled my garage with steam. Worked out fine until I opened the garage door and almost walked into an adult black bear in my driveway. I guess bears like American Pale Ale.... funny, but scary at the same time (since I didn't get mauled to death I guess it's all good).

3) Think hard about the power cable design. Even though Kal's design is great for keeping water out of your electricity where the cable meets the element, having a long (heavy) black cable hanging off of it really is a pain. I'm not sure what the solution would have been, but there has to be another way that would make cleaning them easier. I also almost had a problem with temp probe cable lengths but ordered the whatever deluxe ones and they were long enough.

4) This system is not "cheating." Maybe somewhere in the back of my mind, I thought that if I built this system, somehow that would help me become a good brewer. Nope... only studying, experimenting, experience, and time can do that. It is fun to flip the switches though.

5) Oh, one other thing. I would recommend using DIFFERENT COLOR LIGHTS for the pump indicators. It is really easy to hit the wrong switch (yes, beer pump/switch on left & water pump/switch are on the right). If you hear that grinding noise, turn it off immediately.

6) I realized why people that are smart enough do enclosed systems. Every time you disconnect a hose, it drips a little (or a lot if you forget to close the valve). Boiling beer = boiling drips. With all of the money put into QDs and hosing, I bet I could have designed an enclosed system with a bunch of valves, that would have made clean-up MUCH easier and kept the mess off the floor.

That's it for now. I'm sure I made many more mistakes, but I hope this thread was at least a bit helpful.

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Old 10-29-2012, 04:22 AM   #20
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I'm in the beginning stages of building mine, and #6 (the mess of switching hoses around) was an obvious problem to me. Especially since my brewery will be indoors in the same room as my TV and expensive, as I've accidentally disconnected a hose before while it was still connected to the cold water... my kitchen got soaked!

So I've put together a design for a system that will be *fully* enclosed. Not just the vessels themselves, but the hot and cold water supply *and* drains. But another problem arises. It requires so many valves to accomplish (about twenty), and it's pretty difficult to set all twenty valves to the correct positions every single time.

So I've decided that my only choice is to go with automatic, motor-actuated ball valves. And buying twenty of those babies ain't cheap!

So yeah, I do think enclosed systems are the best choice, but they are also more expensive, and possibly even a HELL of a lot more expensive, depending on how far you decide you need/want to take it. So I can appreciate that not everybody can afford (or simply just don't want to spend that much on) such a system. And for most systems, that's okay. But I have almost $10,000 of electronics in that room, so spending the extra money (looking at about $800 for *just* the ball valves) is a no brainer, especially when I've already made a mistake before that could have caused some serious damage had those electronics been in the same room at the time.

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