Happy HolidaySs Giveaway - Winners Re-Re-Re-Re-Drawn - 24 hours to Claim!

Get your HBT Growlers, Shirts and Membership before the Rush!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > March Pump and SSR Troubles
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 09-22-2011, 12:55 PM   #21
CidahMastah
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: , New York
Posts: 4,266
Liked 37 Times on 35 Posts
Likes Given: 17

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by skinny View Post
These are the ones I have tried so far. I also have a couple i got from auber ins somewhere I plan on trying.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...%20Depot%20Inc
the pictured SSR (if that is the same as yours) in the link is input dc output AC.
__________________

Man,... That's a lotta hooch!
Steel rig in progress
ebuild info

CidahMastah is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-22-2011, 04:50 PM   #22
skinny
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 40
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by flananuts
I had a similar issue when wiring a simple auber temp controller with a 120/240 v sir to control my freezer/lager chamber. I had the exact issues described. I ended up just using the internal auber relay because I could not get it to work properly. On your march pump in your setup, are they process controlled vs manual switching, hence the need for an ssr/relay?
I have processes set up for everything and all of my wiring and controls are hidden. That makes it difficult to run the pump manually.
__________________
skinny is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-22-2011, 05:00 PM   #23
audger
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: ., Connecticut
Posts: 1,497
Liked 40 Times on 40 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CidahMastah View Post
the pictured SSR (if that is the same as yours) in the link is input dc output AC.
yea, that link is the same type of SSR i use (from light-object.com too). they are pretty cheap but ive had one die already, though it was probably from poor heat sinking on my end. i keep a spare around anyway, its only $8.

if yours actually is AC, then it could just have died. that thing i said earlier about AC SSRs using two mosfets- if one of the two mosfets died, you would have pretty much the same problems as using a DC SSR (meaning- you would see around half the voltage, as it would be blocked in one direction).

you may be able to read 120v with no load because even a dead mosfet will leak small amounts of current. but then when you go to try to pull more current, the voltage will drop like a rock. also- not all $7.99 walmart multimeters are capable of acurately reading strange voltages situations like these (half blocked, or irregular sine wave, or non-RMS ones). which would probably explain....
Quote:
Originally Posted by CidahMastah View Post
I accidentally bought output DC ssrs and they worked absolutely fine reading 238V as they should have on my system.
__________________
audger is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-22-2011, 05:31 PM   #24
CidahMastah
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: , New York
Posts: 4,266
Liked 37 Times on 35 Posts
Likes Given: 17

Default

audger - You may be right on the meter, but I don't have a cheapo walmart one for 7.99 Mine was probably more like a whopping $30-40 one if I remember right! ha


I tested mine before running with and without the element hooked up and still got 238v under a load. But that might be the meter.

Either way I know I am a quasi jackass for running it on the DC now. I have two ac out SSRs hanging out in my spare parts for my control panel. I will probably swap it out this coming weekend or next when I finish building my last pot for my system. I would like to baseline my setup and recalibrate my temp probes once I get everything up and running, and autotune, all at once. Seems like if I ever have enough time to test the system that means I have time to brew - you can guess which I end up doing over the other.


I temped my heat sink at 190F, even though it was rated for 40amps. Shortly after I put in a fan that blows across the fins and vents through the back, that seems to keep the heat down pretty good, though I haven't temped the sink with the fan on, because the way I mounted it requires the box to be closed (tapped in some brews on the top half of an auberins lid). But I can very comfortably touch the bottom of the box and feel warm, but not hot from the ssr. Before it was hot.

__________________

Man,... That's a lotta hooch!
Steel rig in progress
ebuild info

CidahMastah is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
eHLT: Recirulation Pump or Stir Motor? Squeeky Electric Brewing 49 12-26-2013 06:58 PM
A 3-Vessel 2-Tier 1-Pump E-RIMS for 30A Quaffer Electric Brewing 65 01-25-2012 12:02 AM
What happens when you use your pump to shoot water at your control panel bf514921 Electric Brewing 40 11-25-2011 09:32 PM
Can I use this pump? acefaser Electric Brewing 5 04-25-2011 02:09 PM
Pump breaker ExHempKnight Electric Brewing 6 01-09-2011 08:52 PM



Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS