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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Manual Mode for a Mypin TA PID
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Old 06-27-2012, 06:52 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by stlbeer View Post
I've reread this thread twice now and I still don't have a clear sense of what it is you're trying to accomplish.

If you could give us a complete run down of how you are planning to brew then you will likely get more assistance on how to accomplish your goal. Something like this:

1. Heat strike water to temp using 5500w 240v water heater element in HLT. Using PID to reach/maintain temps.
2. Mash in Igloo cooler for appropriate time. Cooler will hold temps. Recirculating through heat exchange only when temps drop x degrees below set point. Thermometer is in MLT.
3. Heat sparge water in HLT.
4. Pump first runnings wort from MLT to BK
5. Add sparge water to MLT
6. Pump second runnings wort from MLT to BK
7. Boil wort - using manual mode on PID
8. Recirculate wort via ??? to chill

Right now your use of "heat exchange" has been used in 2 different contexts (to heat up and chill down wort). These require further explanation.

Or I'm completely wrong.
Yeah, that's confusing to me to but I suppose it's accurate, as I was informed in another thread. The HLT heat exchanger (which is just a 50' coil of copper running thru the HLT) and the chiller plate to cool the wort.



Aside from that your outline of the process I planned is spot on. Is there a problem with it? Is it counter productive to only pump from the MT to the coil in the HLT when the temp drops or am I better off running it all the time?
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Old 06-27-2012, 07:15 PM   #22
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I believe that he is setting up either a HERM or RIM heating system whereby the wort is constantly recirculated during the mash and the heater is used to control mash temperature. This has the added benefit of being able to precisely control mash temperatures and with the added ability to do stepped mashes and mash-out without adding additional water. Quite popular actually.
I agree. My system is a RIMS.

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I ordered a Mypin TA4 for my univessel eBIAB setup and then figured out that I'd need another way to control boil. I ended up making a PWM circuit to drive the SSR to control the boil and use a switch to select the input for the SSR. This system works quite well. For a dedicated boil kettle, a PWM would be all that you needed since that is what the manual mode is doing on the controller.
Agree with you here too. I built a PWM and got it functional before I bought a PID with a PWM built in.
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Old 06-27-2012, 07:19 PM   #23
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Aside from that your outline of the process I planned is spot on. Is there a problem with it? Is it counter productive to only pump from the MT to the coil in the HLT when the temp drops or am I better off running it all the time?

For a recirculation technique like a HERMS (which is what you describe) you should run the pump continuously during the mash. It will keep the temperature of your mash closer to your desired temperature.
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Old 06-27-2012, 08:54 PM   #24
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There you go then. Well, I've already bought the PID so I'll still install it as just a digital thermometer I guess. Then if something comes up where I need it I suppose it'll be ready.

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Old 06-28-2012, 10:10 PM   #25
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Back to the TD4 series, how do you set it to control the duty cycle in manual mode. I've got mine working off the thermocouple but I can't figure out how to operate the manual mode. The instructions are somewhat cryptic.

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I had no problems whatsoever getting my pee to ferment.
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:01 PM   #26
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Back to the TD4 series, how do you set it to control the duty cycle in manual mode. I've got mine working off the thermocouple but I can't figure out how to operate the manual mode. The instructions are somewhat cryptic.

Have you figured it out.
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:10 PM   #27
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No. I think their definition of manual mode means not in auto-tune not %-duty cycle. I gave up and ordered an Auber. It came in yesterday and I love the fact that it's instructions were written by an "English is my first language" author. Much easier to figure out.

I'll use the Mypins for fermentation control and what-not.

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Old 11-16-2012, 04:53 AM   #28
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I know this is an old thread but I figured out how to get the TD4 to go manual mode. You've got to have a probe attached or else it doesn't work:
-- Press the SET button to switch to output display mode. The left-most LED will glow red. SV will report the duty cycle.
-- Press and hold the <</M button for 3 seconds. The right-most LED will glow green.
-- Press and release the <</M button to enter 'edit' mode, the right-most digit will flash.
-- Use the up and down buttons to set the duty cycle. The duty cycle will change as you adjust the value.
-- Press SET to lock in the value.

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Old 01-25-2013, 04:17 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by CapnBry View Post
I know this is an old thread but I figured out how to get the TD4 to go manual mode. You've got to have a probe attached or else it doesn't work:
-- Press the SET button to switch to output display mode. The left-most LED will glow red. SV will report the duty cycle.
-- Press and hold the <</M button for 3 seconds. The right-most LED will glow green.
-- Press and release the <</M button to enter 'edit' mode, the right-most digit will flash.
-- Use the up and down buttons to set the duty cycle. The duty cycle will change as you adjust the value.
-- Press SET to lock in the value.

Does the TD4 work as well as the aubers ?
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:49 PM   #30
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For a TA4-SNR, if there isn't a specific manual mode couldn't you make a pseudo manual mode using the proportional band and temp setting? Technically the proportional band is what controls the duty cycle.

I've never tried this, but here's what I would do to get a "Manual Mode"

Set P value to 100 and turn both I and D off.

Why? Since P is a temp multiplier each degree difference between your set value and actual temp will change your duty cycle by 1%.

Example: If your actual temp is 100 degrees and your set temp is 150 degrees then the duty cycle is 50% (Temp diff / P value) = 50 / 100 = 50%

Every degree you raise the set temp from the actual temp will increase the "On Time" by 1% of the duty cycle.

On Brew day I would make my set temp something like 300F, the duty cycle will run at 100% until it goes above 200F. When you reach a strong boil, just lower the set temp until you have a nice steady boil.

If you don't care about the BK temp, then you could leave the probe out of the kettle and just use the air temp as your control temp and not have to worry about the actual temp changing.

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