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-   -   Manual Mode for a Mypin TA PID (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/manual-mode-mypin-ta-pid-336198/)

Ravenshead 06-18-2012 10:43 PM

Manual Mode for a Mypin TA PID
This may be posted but I can't find it.

I just received an Mypin TA4 -SNR PID and the associated SSR and thermocouple. I know how to use it for strike water and mash temp based on the temp, but how do I control the duty cycle during the boil? I see something call manual mode for other PIDs but the instructions that came with mine don't mention such a mode.

Double-R 06-18-2012 11:33 PM

Read the last post on this tread.


summerofgeorge 06-19-2012 02:02 AM

You need the TD4 for manual mode, not the TA4. I've been contemplating this vs the goto Auber PID (comment not intended to start another PID debate).

deadboy 06-19-2012 06:40 AM

Couldn't you wire around it with a switch to bypass the pid when you want it manual? I ask because I have 3 of these myself and this is my eventual plan...

Ravenshead 06-19-2012 10:29 PM


Originally Posted by deadboy (Post 4183137)
Couldn't you wire around it with a switch to bypass the pid when you want it manual? I ask because I have 3 of these myself and this is my eventual plan...

No, you want to be able to set the duty cycle manually during the boil. If you bypass the PID altogether you just leave the heater on 100% of the time. That's usually a little much.

I went ahead and ordered the other kind of PID for the boil kettle. I'll use this one for my HLT. It's going to be very nice brewing all electric.

deadboy 06-20-2012 03:08 AM

OHHH, yeah. I mean I guess you still have the pid temp readings to turn it back off with but what I was talking about with a bypass was for my pump. If it drops below the approp. temp it'll kick on the pump to run the mash thru the heat exchanger till it warms up.

Ravenshead 06-20-2012 09:47 PM

Most of the recirc systems I've seen leave the pump on continuously and turn the heater on and off to maintain temp. No need to bypass the PID either way.

Just for explanation, I won't be using the temp probe for the boil kettle. I want to maintain a boil so there won't be any temperature change to trigger the heater on and off (water boils at a constant temp no matter how much heat you add to it). Instead, I'll use the manual mode to set the heater at 50% or so duty cycle to keep the boil rolling but not so much that I loose too much wort.

deadboy 06-20-2012 09:59 PM

Hmm, I was looking at a PID for the boil element, one for the pump from the mash tun to warm it, and one for the HLT element. The pump for the heat exchanger will also pump to the kettle so I wanted to be able to bypass the PID when it's time to move it.

Ravenshead 06-21-2012 01:56 AM

I think we're talking past each other. You don't need a PID for your pumps. Just run them off of a simple on/off switch. Most people run their recirc pump continuously through the mash.

The TA4 PIDs will work fine for controlling your HLT, RIMS, HERMS or anything else you need to maintain a temp below boiling. You only need the TD4 PID for the boil kettle since it needs to switch based on manual duty cycle rather than temp. However, based on post #2 above you can still use a TA4 if you set the temp for a couple degrees below boiling. I'm not going to do that because I don't plan on putting a thermowell on my kettle.

deadboy 06-21-2012 01:46 PM

I guess my concern was running the pump less meant less chance of disturbing the grain bed. Admittedly I'm new, so new I haven't done it yet, to all grain so I've just been looking at other people's designs.

My plan was to run 3 PIDs. One for HLT element, one for kettle element, and one for MT pump. I'm using a 10 gallon igloo cooler for MT so it should hold temp well enough not to need an element. So if I just have an on off for the boil element and the mash pump and kettle pump do I only need one PID and therefore one thermocouple? That seems weird. Am I forgetting something?

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