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lukez 01-28-2013 08:25 PM

Making hole for element question
 
So kal's website says to use a 1 1/4" punch for the element. I tested this hole on a scrap peice of metal and the hole seems alittle large? Looks like the seal covers the hole but still sloppier then I would have imagined. Maybe a 1/8" gap between hole and threads.
Is this normal or is my element threads different than the ripp element kal uses?

I'm using this element:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100150507/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=camco&storeId=10051#.UQbry_JCzwQ

castermmt 01-28-2013 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lukez (Post 4836919)
So kal's website says to use a 1 1/4" punch for the element. I tested this hole on a scrap peice of metal and the hole seems alittle large? Looks like the seal covers the hole but still sloppier then I would have imagined. Maybe a 1/8" gap between hole and threads.
Is this normal or is my element threads different than the ripp element kal uses?

I'm using this element:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100150507/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=camco&storeId=10051#.UQbry_JCzwQ

What did you use to cut the hole? There are different type punches, if its a conduit punch then it's may be the wrong punch. Should be be 1-1/4" hole, did you measure it? GreenLee 1-1/4" chassis/radio punch not a Conduit punch.

lukez 01-28-2013 09:06 PM

You're right, the hole measures 11/16" not 1 1/4".
Thanks

hot_carl 01-29-2013 01:31 PM

11/16"? I assume thats a typo since it would be smaller than the element threads. Maybe 1-11/16"? I would be careful mounting an element in a hole that is too big. If the element gets torqued when the seal BARELY seals the outside of that hole, you could get a leak in a very invonvenient place. I have seen one setup where this happened, and the guy took a 1-1/4"-1" bushing (make sure that the element will screw into the bushing deep enough to seal at its seal), and used a silicone gasket and a 1-1/4" NPS nut to make a sort of bulkhead in the keggle, and the element screws into it with its original seal. Overcomplicated, yes, but he had no means of welding/soldering and it works like a charm.

lukez 01-30-2013 12:12 PM

ya I meant 1 11/16". I can't for the life of me find anyone with a radio punch, everyone has conduit punches and I'm not buying one just to make 1 hole.
I'm almost tempted to cut it out with my dremel or make a smaller hole and use the dremel to grind it down the rest of the way.

OMJ 01-30-2013 12:40 PM

you would be much better off getting a step bit or a hole saw than using a dremel. Would be hard to make a uniformally round hole with a dremel. You can get a step bit at harbor freight for under $20 and while its not a great bit its certainly good for 1 hole.

g-love 01-30-2013 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lukez (Post 4843299)
ya I meant 1 11/16". I can't for the life of me find anyone with a radio punch, everyone has conduit punches and I'm not buying one just to make 1 hole.
I'm almost tempted to cut it out with my dremel or make a smaller hole and use the dremel to grind it down the rest of the way.

I'm running into the same problem. There are conduit punches everywhere. I need to make a bunch of holes though, so i'm going to end up eating the cost and buying some.

You can use a step bit. They're not cheap either, but it's better than purchasing a greenlee punch for one hole.

g-love 01-30-2013 12:43 PM

OMJ beat me to it. :-)

jCOSbrew 01-30-2013 05:39 PM

1" conduit punch makes the correct size hole (1.25")
I used the cheap harbor freight set. These punches work great on AL or plastic, but their lifespan is limited on SS.

OMJ 01-30-2013 05:48 PM

1" conduit punch makes a 1-11/32" hole. Close but still bigger than 1.25".


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