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Old 07-08-2011, 03:35 PM   #11
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where in wny are you?

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Old 07-08-2011, 05:00 PM   #12
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Thanks wza it looks like this might work
I wouldn't recommend it as standard practice, like I said the boil was VERY WEAK with that 2000W element, just barely turning over in the kettle. But nonetheless it did work. I'd imagine insulating the kettle well would help, but it may not be enough.
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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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Old 07-08-2011, 05:07 PM   #13
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I'm southeast of rochester

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Old 07-08-2011, 05:11 PM   #14
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If I could heat sparge water this way it would help my process.

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Old 07-08-2011, 05:13 PM   #15
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If I could heat sparge water this way it would help my process.
Great! Just keep in mind that you won't be able to run anything else on that circuit with the heatstick plugged in.
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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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Old 07-08-2011, 05:44 PM   #16
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http://gnipsel.com/beer/software/beer-software.html

This might help. Couldn't see it on my phone though.
Sorry, looks like the link didnt work. This is the one I was looking for...scroll to the last calculator.

http://www.manskirtbrewing.com/calcs.shtml#electrichdr
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Old 07-08-2011, 06:19 PM   #17
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thanks! That link worked. So earlier in the thread buffalobrewer was saying to run an element at 80% draw. If I'm just plugging this element in with no control over the draw I need to go with an element smaller than 1920 watts right?

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Old 07-08-2011, 06:27 PM   #18
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thanks! That link worked. So earlier in the thread buffalobrewer was saying to run an element at 80% draw. If I'm just plugging this element in with no control over the draw I need to go with an element smaller than 1920 watts right?
No, you don't want to run your element at 80% draw. It is my understanding that you are to run electrical appliances at 80% amp draw based on the size of the wire/outlets/breakers/etc there. If you've got a 20A breaker with 12AWG wire feeding a 20A outlet then technically you should only run a 16A draw on it. This means that technically you should run a 1920W maximum element on that circuit.

In the real world you probably aren't getting 120v to that outlet (you can check with a multimeter) so running the 2000W element should be fine.

THIS spreadsheet has a lot of useful info, and is what I used to calculate your heating time.
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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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Old 07-08-2011, 06:56 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killian
thanks! That link worked. So earlier in the thread buffalobrewer was saying to run an element at 80% draw. If I'm just plugging this element in with no control over the draw I need to go with an element smaller than 1920 watts right?
The 80% rule is from the code and is more intended for designing electrical systems. The circuit breaker or fuse is there to protect the wire and prevent fire. I wouldn't worry about going over 80% especially if you are standing there watching it the whole time.

My HLT draws 94% of my circuit capacity plus the same feed powers everything else in my shop. The breaker will tell me when I'm drawing too much...it has a few times.
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Old 07-08-2011, 07:10 PM   #20
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I'll trust the 'Lectric Guy ^^up there^^.

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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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