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Old 12-28-2012, 03:39 PM   #21
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I agree with mabrungard. If you put the LED on the SSR control circuit and the SSR fails closed, you'll never know except that your mash will get too hot. The control circuit will still do it's thing and the element will have power the whole time.



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Old 12-28-2012, 04:57 PM   #22
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If you are disabling 220v power properly with a contactor upstream or downstream of the SSR then ther SSR leakage and light are no longer an issue. The other benefits are no power to the element when it is "off" and can successfully turn off power event if the SSR or PWM ckt fail.



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Old 12-28-2012, 05:44 PM   #23
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I have a 40A switch (rotary cam lock-out) in my panel that cuts power to the entire panel. But there are times when I want the power switched on and also have the elements unplugged. What I do not like is that in this instance the "element on" indicator comes on falsely, due to the ssr leakage current. Also, I cannot check to see if the PWM is functioning properly unless I plug in an element which in turn means water in the kettle.

I agree that having a 12V light on the SSR input is not ideal. However I just had an interesting thought - in addition to the 12V light I could put 230V indicator lights on my element junction boxes that are attached to the kettles.

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Old 12-28-2012, 05:55 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jCOSbrew View Post
If you are disabling 220v power properly with a contactor upstream or downstream of the SSR then ther SSR leakage and light are no longer an issue. The other benefits are no power to the element when it is "off" and can successfully turn off power event if the SSR or PWM ckt fail.
To clarify, are you saying that the relay provides enough resistance so that, when the relay is closed, the led will not light from leakage, even if no element is plugged in?

Or, are you saying that with the relay the led can still light from leakage with no element plugged in, but you should keep the relay switched open unless you have the element plugged in and submerged, and not worry about it?
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Old 12-28-2012, 07:49 PM   #25
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No, I am saying that the 2 phase contactor cuts power to the outlet (and light and element).
No power = no leakage = light OFF.
It sounds like TH has a single contactor at the input to the panel and relies on the SSR to cut power to the element, keeping 1 leg of the element hot at all times. Depending on how the panel is designed, you could enable/disable the main power contactor when one element is enabled and run the PID and pumps off of fused 110v upstream of the contactor.

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Old 12-28-2012, 08:17 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jCOSbrew View Post
No, I am saying that the 2 phase contactor cuts power to the outlet (and light and element).
No power = no leakage = light OFF.
It sounds like TH has a single contactor at the input to the panel and relies on the SSR to cut power to the element, keeping 1 leg of the element hot at all times. Depending on how the panel is designed, you could enable/disable the main power contactor when one element is enabled and run the PID and pumps off of fused 110v upstream of the contactor.
That's what I thought. Run the SSR hot through one pole of the contactor, run the other hot through the other pole of the contactor, and switch the contactor off unless an element is plugged in and submerged. Contactor off, then light off. Contactor on and element plugged in, with no power through the SSR, then light off. Contactor on and element plugged in, with power through the SSR, then light on. Thanks.
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:19 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jCOSbrew View Post
No, I am saying that the 2 phase contactor cuts power to the outlet (and light and element).
No power = no leakage = light OFF.
It sounds like TH has a single contactor at the input to the panel and relies on the SSR to cut power to the element, keeping 1 leg of the element hot at all times. Depending on how the panel is designed, you could enable/disable the main power contactor when one element is enabled and run the PID and pumps off of fused 110v upstream of the contactor.
Right now I have a key switch to turn off and on the pwm but if I were to do it again I would also use a contactor that switches both 230 legs. This seems best and most logical. However its too late in the game for me to do that. I'll let you know what I end up doing...
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:27 PM   #28
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Quote:
If you put the LED on the SSR control circuit and the SSR fails closed, you'll never know except that your mash will get too hot.
You might notice that the LED was never turning on.
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:46 PM   #29
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You might notice that the LED was never turning on.
No. The control side would operate normally, and the LED would turn on. The output would stay on (or off) forever.
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Old 12-29-2012, 02:52 AM   #30
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Tonight I tried a 7.5 kohm 8W resistor wired in parallel with the LED and BINGO! No more light on when the element is unplugged.



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