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Old 03-21-2012, 02:01 AM   #1
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Default Long vs. Short Tri Clamp Ferrule

Hi all,

I'm planning on using this element: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02953-14.../dp/B0002YU2YS

With this fitting: http://www.brewershardware.com/TC15F10NPSCOV.html
or: http://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tri...t-Adapter.html
or: http://www.hillbillystills.com/Heati...ate_p/hecp.htm

1) Does anyone know if I need a short ferrule or can I use a long one?
2) Does the short ferrule get in the way of removing the tri clamp?
3) Will the element hit the side wall of the pot with a short ferrule?
3) Do you have a recommendation for which tri clamp x NPT fitting to use?

Thanks!

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Old 03-21-2012, 04:00 AM   #2
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I tried to use the Camco 02963 (5500W) ripple element with the Brewer's Hardware 1.5" Tri Clover X 1" NPS Element Adapter and it doesn't fit. It's not an issue with the ferrule but the adapter. I have both a long and short ferrule but before I even get to the ferrule, the ripple element gets stuck.

It seems like it's real close and possibly could work with a little bending of the element but I'll probably go with a straight element.

I'd be curious if anyone has the 2" element adapter and if it works better.

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Old 03-21-2012, 04:27 AM   #3
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Yes, I did it. Give me a day and I will send you photos.

I did the Camco 5500W element with the Brewershardware & Tri-Clover connection.
Welded on a long ferrule, since the tri-clover had to have room to close (spinning the lock nut).
---- okay, jpalarchino, this is where I made it work ----
Then, I bended the Camco element to fit through the ferrule and also inside the kettle.
It is pretty flexible, so was able to make it work. But, a straight element may be better.

My only concern is the space inside the ferrule, if it will fill with gunk and may be hard to clean out.

*** UPDATED - Photos below ****

1.jpg   2.jpg   3.jpg   4.jpg  
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Old 03-22-2012, 12:31 AM   #4
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Thanks for the pics. Given how much you had to bend that element, it's not too far off from a straight one. I'll probably end up going with a straight one as it looks like removing it would be another bending exercise.

Thanks for the tip on the ferrule and clamp clearance. I bought both and was hoping to use the short; not sure I would have caught that the clamp couldn't be tightened.

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Old 03-22-2012, 01:35 AM   #5
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Sparky- thanks for posting those pics. Wow, that really doesn't fit. I'm planning on using the tri clamp because I need to remove it every brew day so I can pack the system away for storage. I guess I should be looking at a straight element. It doesn't look like the short ferrule would help the situation. Any recommendations for my situation?

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Old 03-22-2012, 02:18 AM   #6
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(1) Go with the short ferrule, as long as the tri-clamp locknut can spin without hitting the kettle.
(2) If you can get a 5500 watt STRAIGHT element, that is the way to go.
Then, you should be golden.

I had already purchased the Camco twisty element, next time the straight one!

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Old 03-22-2012, 03:06 PM   #7
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I used a long ferrule in my kegs. I didnt have to bend the element much at all, maybe 1/8" or so.

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Old 03-22-2012, 03:41 PM   #8
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sv_1 - are you able to easily remove the element from the kettle? Did you use the 1.5" or the 2"? If you had gone with the short ferrule, do you think you still would have had to bend the element? Did you use the ripple or straight? Thanks

I'd prefer to use the ULWD ripple element, but I dont mind using the fold back if it will work. It sounds like there's really no good solution for a removable ULWD element.?

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Old 03-22-2012, 04:12 PM   #9
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How hard was it to bend that element? Think it could have bent even more?

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Old 03-22-2012, 05:42 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NinjaJoe View Post
How hard was it to bend that element? Think it could have bent even more?
It was not too hard to bend it. It should not be bad putting it back to remove it. But, I am finishing my build and will run it through a couple test cycles in the next few weeks.
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