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Old 04-24-2012, 11:54 PM   #61
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You can get some small 120VAC indicator lights from radio shack if panel space is a problem. Just have to get hot from your element outlet or output of your element relays, then you won't have to deal with SSR leakage. You'll also need to grab the white neutral, unless you can just find a 240VAC indicator light, which I wasn't looking for at the time. I used a red and a green (couldn't find blue) for my DIY temp controller. Here's what they look like installed:

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Old 04-25-2012, 12:50 AM   #62
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Yep, thats what I am using on the panel already (in green), and is what I would use for the "element fire" lights.... probably in red.

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Old 04-25-2012, 12:51 AM   #63
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BTW I like that temp controller box, its nice and compact.

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Old 04-30-2012, 02:53 PM   #64
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Did some more work on the brewery this weekend:

Got most of the decals on the control panel, thanks to Bobby_M at Brewhardware for the sweet custom labels!


Got the RTD installed on the output of the heat exchanger, and ran an autotune session with about 10 gallons of water in the HLT and ~4 gallons in the MLT. (I’ll do another autotune on the next brew session I think).

Temperatures in the MLT had about a 3 to 4 degrees lag behind the water in the HLT during the initial heating, but they evened out pretty quickly once the set temp of 175 was hit. I recirculated in the HLT to keep constant agitation, while also recirculating the ‘mash’ with the output valve half open.




Also did some work on my logo, I’d appreciate some feedback on this if anyone has any suggestions. I’m relearning GIMP since its been awhile since I used any graphics program other than Picasa and Paint.


Other updates to the brewery:
- Installed stainless ½” NPT to ½” OD compression elbows in the BK and HLT in-port to use as a whirlpool/recirc agitators (thanks to my dad for bringing these fittings home from work, saved me about $50 bucks!)
- Took the pump out of the toolbox. I think I like having them mounted permanently under the brewstand better.
- Adjusted the BK’s diptube to pull more from the side of the kettle since I will now be whirlpooling. I just bent the copper tubing out towards the vessel wall with my hands/vise grips.

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Old 06-11-2012, 02:05 PM   #65
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I know you used this wiring diagram from P-J to wire up your box. I was wondering where the indicator lights are hooked up, since I'm not seeing them on here.




Thanks!

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Old 06-12-2012, 02:37 PM   #66
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Lets see if this works….first time trying to upload pics directly to HBT since I cant get on PB at work.

Indicator lights are easy, just connect one terminal to the ‘switched’ side of hot, and other to neutral. I used 110v lamps of course. Red is what I used for HLT, BK and PID indicators. You could also indicate when either pump is running, I have sketched that in green.

On a somewhat unrelated note, I’ve brewed 5 batches with this so far. On Sunday after my brewday was done I was going to clean the kettles with a hot oxyclean rinse through the entire system. I put about 5 gallons of water in the HLT and attempted to fire the element… no go. I was getting an “ORAL” error with blinking lights. I didn’t have time to fiddle with it, but I think I may have pulled a wire loose on the RTD. At least I hope that’s all it is, I’ll check it out tonight.

auberin-wiring1-a4-4500w-30c_indicators.jpg  
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Old 06-13-2012, 02:25 AM   #67
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Thanks!

Did you ever figure out what went wrong with the element?

Any chance you have a parts list of everything you needed to make this? This is the exact setup i'm shooting for. Also...what gauge wires are needed for all the internal connections. I haven't seen any of these details on any of the diagrams from P-J.

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Old 06-13-2012, 01:59 PM   #68
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I don’t have a detailed parts list, but I can try to help you along the way as much as possible. Do you have a build thread started or are you just planning now? This guy has a detailed list that I used as a start point for my build, it would be a good read:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/e-herms-build-4500w-elements-pics-310259/

Havent had time to figure out what’s up with the element, but I am almost certain that it is the RTD wire, since that error is common when the probe is not plugged in. I was moving my HERMS coil around all over the place after the brew day and I don’t remember unplugging the RTD probe. I need to get some better wire sheathing for it.

Interior wiring in the control panel is all either 8 awg or 14 awg. 8 awg for all feeds that see high current (main feeds from SPA panel, element outlets, SSR output), and 14 awg for all others.

I would suggest you start a thread if you haven’t already and post exactly what it is you want to do. It’s a good chance that P-J or someone else has a diagram already drawn up.

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Old 06-14-2012, 06:20 PM   #69
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On your HLT/BK switch, does it have a center setting that will cut power from both elements without turning off the PID? Not sure if this would be necessary or not, but might be useful. Are there switches that are made like that?

I'm not ready to build right now, but I'm looking to get all my plans together. I've been doing all grain for awhile now with a cooler mash tun...batch sparging and boiling on propane burner. I'm looking to go 2 kettles, one for hlt and one for bk, and probably use the cooler setup at first and eventually switch to a third kettle for the mlt.

Your setup looks like what I would be looking or, except i would like a second pid for the mash tun to keep track of the mash temp. How do you keep track of your mash temps?

What are your thoughts on having a switch to control power to the entire box? Would this be a useful feature to have?

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Old 06-14-2012, 07:30 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smoothlarryhughes View Post
On your HLT/BK switch, does it have a center setting that will cut power from both elements without turning off the PID? Not sure if this would be necessary or not, but might be useful. Are there switches that are made like that?
Yes, it is a DPDT – center position off switch. This ensure that I can have the PID on without firing either element, and only one can be fired at a time. Heres a link: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/NKK-Toggle-Switch-2TPC5

Quote:
Originally Posted by smoothlarryhughes View Post
I'm not ready to build right now, but I'm looking to get all my plans together. I've been doing all grain for awhile now with a cooler mash tun...batch sparging and boiling on propane burner. I'm looking to go 2 kettles, one for hlt and one for bk, and probably use the cooler setup at first and eventually switch to a third kettle for the mlt.
I’m pretty much at your second step, and am on the lookout for a third keggle that I can use as an MLT. The extra 5 gallons of capacity will be much appreciated!

Quote:
Originally Posted by smoothlarryhughes View Post
Your setup looks like what I would be looking or, except i would like a second pid for the mash tun to keep track of the mash temp. How do you keep track of your mash temps?
I use a HERMs coil in the HLT to recirculate the mash liquor through, with the RTD probe attached to the output of the coil with a 1/2” stainless tee fitting. My process starts by filling HLT almost completely full and get the whole thing up to strike temps. Mash in and let the MLT settle for about 10-20 minutes. While this is going on, add additional water to the HLT if needed and get that back up to desired mash temp (This is usually quick since desired temp is 150-155 usually, and I strike in at around 170 depending on grain quantity and temps). Once the HLT temp is stabilized, start the recirc through the HERMs coil (This is where having the cooler is an advantage because I don’t necessarily have to start the recirc right away, the cooler will hold temps well for at least 45 minutes). Towards the end of the rest, set the PID to mash out (165-170) temp and recirc for an additional 10-15 minutes or so. Then drain 1st runnnings, and sparge from HLT (water is already at 165-170). Switch the element over to the BK once the element is submerged with liquor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smoothlarryhughes View Post
What are your thoughts on having a switch to control power to the entire box? Would this be a useful feature to have?
IMHO, its unnecessary in my setup. I have a switch to the PID, which if turned off should kill the elements from firing (note there still may be hot wire running to the element the way that the SSRs work). If I need to completely kill the whole circuit I will either push the e-stop button, flip the switch at the SPA Panel (which is within arms reach of the brewstand), or unplug the whole thing. An extra power switch would just be an added expense in my opinion.
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