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Old 04-10-2012, 01:22 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omockler
Those push in connectors look nice. Are you thinking about putting a cooling fan in your control box?
That's still up in the air, a fan will just take away more volume in an already cramped space.

I am thinking I may want to put the heatsink on outside of the box, for cooling reasons and also for added space inside.

But I already mounted the sink to the ssr with thermal compound. How much of a hassle is it to get that stuff off and then back on?
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:18 PM   #42
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It looks like you have the same ssr and heat sink that I have and that thing gets seriously hot when it is running full blast.
The stuff I used seems to stay pretty gooey so I don't think it would be too hard to pull the heat sink off the ssr but I'm not sure all thermal compounds are the same.

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Old 04-10-2012, 02:33 PM   #43
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It looks like you have the same ssr and heat sink that I have and that thing gets seriously hot when it is running full blast.
The stuff I used seems to stay pretty gooey so I don't think it would be too hard to pull the heat sink off the ssr but I'm not sure all thermal compounds are the same.
Yeah I didnt want to mess with it until I decided which way to go, but the more I think about it the more it makes sense to just put the heatsink on the outside. I’ll probably mount it on the back of the panel since I don’t have anything there (yet). I’m pretty sure that I will be mounting the control panel to a fixture in the brewery somehow so I don’t have to worry about moving it around too much.
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:58 PM   #44
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Junction box wired up. Used some electric tape wrapping (yea very professional) to keep the ground wire close to the other two to minimize snagging. Waterproof faceplate goes on front.


Here's what the BK looks like in place. Notice the junction box out of the way towards the back.


Here's my plumbing job of the non filtered bypass.
I would be VERY careful when using this for the first time. I assume that is a BK and you plan on boiling with it (212F). Those carlon boxes have a max operating temp if less than 180F. Personally I would replace it with a metal gang box.

During HLT use my metal gang box still gets hot enough to be uncomfortable to touch (and I have kitchen hands from years of chefdom working my way through college)
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:52 PM   #45
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I would be VERY careful when using this for the first time. I assume that is a BK and you plan on boiling with it (212F). Those carlon boxes have a max operating temp if less than 180F. Personally I would replace it with a metal gang box.

During HLT use my metal gang box still gets hot enough to be uncomfortable to touch (and I have kitchen hands from years of chefdom working my way through college)
Ouch, that’s not news I wanted to hear. Thanks for the info, I will definitely keep a close eye on it when I am test boiling.

I could swap the kettles and use what I originally planned on using as HLT for my BK if necessary. It’s the one that has the PVC endcap JB-Welded onto the back of the element. I assume the PVC would have a higher temp rating. Actually that might work better since the temp probe hole was drilled into the side of the keg wall before I received it. I was thinking that was a pretty inefficient place to monitor mash temps, and was going to plug it up and put my RTD in the output of the HEX instead. This way I could use the in-wall RTD as just a temp probe to measure pre-boil/chill temperatures.
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:13 PM   #46
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It may be totally fine, or just work for several months then denature, crack, etc. I do know I read a spec sheet calling out 173F for a max temp. and didn't want to see you, or anyone else get hurt.

A lot of guys are considering and starting to use plastic gang boxes/enclosures; the price point is not that different to warrant the safety risk IMO. Just my .02

I am not sure on the PVC rating, but I think it is higher.

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Old 04-11-2012, 12:22 PM   #47
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I am copying a discussion I had on another thread regarding the 40 amp breaker that I currently have installed in my main panel.

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P-J: I have a question regarding the stepped-down breaker protection within the control panel. If you or a mod feels this is off topic to this thread, please feel free to answer in my build thread (see sig link below).

If I have a 40 amp circuit, would I need to run all 8 gauge wire in the control panel (other than fused runs such as PID/Pumps/E-Stop) if I wanted to avoid putting in separate circuit protection?

And will I be okay if my connections (switches, terminal blocks, etc.) are not rated to 40 amps?

I feel like the answer to the second question is no, and that I should just put in separate protection for this reason as well as ease of wiring, but I just wanted to get your thoughts on 40 amp service since everyone is usually using either 30A or 50A.

What fuses/circuit breakers do you recommend for installing in the control panel? If this is too much of a pain, I may just replace the main breaker with a 30 amp one and be done with it. I didn’t want to limit the amperage since I got a good deal on 6 gauge (albeit aluminum) wiring from the breaker to the garage.
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kpr121

With a 30A 240V feed, the elements would normally be powered with a 30A circuit. I also illustrate seperate fusing for the low power 120V devices within the controller. For a 40A or 50A feed you must provide circuit protection within your controller. Fuses for 120V devices are A-Ok. IMHO, the 240V devices must be protected with circuit breakers so that both of the 240V lines are interupted together. It is not just about protecting the wire. It is also very much about protecting the devices involved and you.

Automation Direct is a source for 25A - 240V DIN breakers: Double_Pole - WMZS2B25
And 15A - 120V DIN breakers: Single_Pole - WMZS1B15
Here are the rails: Rails - DN-R35S1-2

Hope this makes sense.
So I think I am just going to replace the breaker in the box for a 30 amp, it’s a lot cheaper than breakers in the CP, plus I don’t think I have the room in there for it. 30 amp will be enough to run a single 5500W element plus two chugger pumps right?
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:27 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CidahMastah View Post
It may be totally fine, or just work for several months then denature, crack, etc. I do know I read a spec sheet calling out 173F for a max temp. and didn't want to see you, or anyone else get hurt.

A lot of guys are considering and starting to use plastic gang boxes/enclosures; the price point is not that different to warrant the safety risk IMO. Just my .02

I am not sure on the PVC rating, but I think it is higher.
Cidah:

Once again thanks for the input. I will do some trial boils in both with only water and see how hot the enclosure/PVC cap get. I used a PVC cap in my 110v 2000W eHLT and I don’t remember it ever getting hot to the touch, but it might be different with so much power. I’d like to not have to replace the whole thing, but if it is getting very hot I am going to be concerned and will probably swap it out for metal.

I should have just used metal in the first place now that I have this hindsight (heads up to anyone planning something like this!)
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Old 04-13-2012, 03:36 AM   #49
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Ugh wiring this up is proving to be a pain. Should have bought a bigger box.

Plus I just received my eBay temp readout and its twice as big as my pid! Wtf?! I don't know if I want that big display outshining the rest of my system. I may leave it out or put it in a separate enclosure.....

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Old 04-15-2012, 12:45 AM   #50
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Here's proof to how cramped its gonna be! Just need to wire up the estop and mount the 110 outlet for the pumps and I'll be done! Will have a couple people take a look at it before powering up.

I would definitely recommend a bigger enclosure than the one from auber for a control panel of this detail or greater.

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