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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Keg to ekeggle conversion pics
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Old 08-04-2011, 01:39 AM   #21
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OK, that explains it. The 2352 is an inch deeper than the 2362 for some reason...

Thanks!

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Old 08-04-2011, 05:12 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by rsmith2786 View Post
I've got a Dynasty 300DX, but i'm a totaly noob to TIG. My first attempt welding to my keg didn't turn out super pretty. How do you prep the keg and locknut? Also, could you outline your welding settings (amps, filler, etc.). It would be VERY much appreciated!!!
OK, I also have a Dynasty, so you will be able to replicate my settings exactly (not saying they're perfect, but they should be a good starting point). Also, everything Mike said is spot on. The only thing that I can add is to learn how to breathe while welding. I used to hold my breath because it would make my arms and hands steadier, but near the end of a weld I would move faster and shake because I was basically running out of air. lol. If you learn how to relax and breathe slowly you will be much better off!

For welding the nut to the keg:
Main amps: 62
Pulses per second: 62
Peak time: 80%
Background amps: 56
2% lanthanated 3/32" tungsten
1/16" 308L rod
~15 CFH argon

Everything to be welded, including the welding rod, gets hit with scotch brite to remove oxidation and clean the surface. Then I wipe everything down with acetone (the acetone may not be necessary, but I like to make sure it's totally clean). Use new scotch brite that has never been used on carbon steel as it may contaminate the SS and cause rust later. Making sure that all of the gaps are tight will make welding easier and result a better looking weld. You should also back purge when welding thin stuff such as kegs to prevent ugly oxidation on the back side of the weld.

Are you following Miller's recommendations for sharpening the tungsten?
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Old 08-04-2011, 05:19 AM   #23
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I have thought about triclover also, but wanted to do a larger triclover and a countersunk element to really get the base of the element into the wort
FYI approximately the first 1" of the actual element doesn't get heated.
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Old 08-04-2011, 11:21 PM   #24
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More pics. The sight glass is mostly done. All that's left is to trim the tops of the the polycarbonate and stainless tubes after I decide how long to make them. The polycarbonate tube is 1/8" x 3/8" and fits into a compression fitting. The nut of the compression fitting has been turned down so the stainless tube can slip over it. Right now there's a Delrin ferrule in there, but I also have two 3/8" x 1/2" high temp. silicone o-rings to try out. The ball valve has also been installed.





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Old 08-05-2011, 09:11 PM   #25
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seriously? all that amazing custom work and you aren't using camlocks? you're fired.
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Old 08-05-2011, 09:18 PM   #26
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seriously? all that amazing custom work and you aren't using camlocks? you're fired.
Hell, this build deserves triclovers.
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Old 08-06-2011, 02:04 PM   #27
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I bet money he will migrate to that someday... when he searches for KLG stainless on ebay, and gets the full spreadsheet of what kevin has available...

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Old 08-07-2011, 04:31 PM   #28
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seriously? all that amazing custom work and you aren't using camlocks? you're fired.
I have no idea where that barbed fitting came from! Someone obviously slipped it in there before I took the pic.

So the hop stopper is done. We're hop heads, so I thought a big hop stopper would make life easier when it comes to pumping and chilling. After much research (and finding out what was available at the time from McMaster), we decided on this screen:

Mesh Size 28 x 28
General Opening Size Medium
Square/Rectangle Size .026"
Wire Diameter .010"
Percentage of Open Area 51.8

The pickup tube is 1/2" OD stainless with some 1/8" x 3/8" slots in the end. I really hope this thing works because I don't want to have to take it apart to modify it.

After it proves itself (hopefully!), it will definitely get tri clamped to ease removal for cleaning. I imagine that it won't be easy to clean while in the keg. I'd also like to make some other type of clamp to replace the hose clamp because the screws on them usually seem to rust.











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Old 08-07-2011, 04:37 PM   #29
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jizzed my pants

-=Jason=-

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Old 08-07-2011, 05:59 PM   #30
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Can you explain a little more about how you made the hop screen?

How you handled the edges and how you attached both halves together?

Thanks!

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