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Old 08-03-2011, 02:52 AM   #11
orangehero
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Why didn't you just make the element removable with a triclamp?

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Old 08-03-2011, 01:32 PM   #12
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Why didn't you just make the element removable with a triclamp?
I thought long and hard about making it removable with a tri clamp, but in the end I just did not think that it would be necessary. I hope to never even need to remove the element. Cleaning in place should take care of it. In the event that I do need to scrub the element, I'll just reach in and do it. If I really need to take it out, it takes about 10 seconds to remove it with a socket or an adjustable wrench.

If I do decide that a tri clamp removable element is necessary in the future, all I have to do is buy one more TC end cap. I'll either put a 1" threaded hole in or weld another 1" NPS lock nut to it. That will get clamped to the end cap that's currently welded to the keg. Then, I'll cut the flange off of one of the existing ferrules and weld it to the new end cap to seal the element connections.
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Old 08-03-2011, 02:49 PM   #13
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Nice Work, Kevin! Is that a Bridgeport or Index in the back of the first pic? I keep running through my head about counterbalancing and motorizing your circle cutter, maybe a gearmotor to keep cutter speed right... maybe a jig to hold it in a decent size lathe and put the cutter on the chuck... I just want to see one long shaving when making that hole... worth the effort for one or two? no... cool? yes!

I like your back-gassing setup, you can see the back.. I use a tuna can with a 6" carriage bolt through it, on the front I have a washer with a hole in it for a small metal tube with the argon tube attached to it, the washer I hold in place with a spring and a wingnut... bending the tuna can allows it to get pretty close fit to the keg wall.. I want a clear one that does not melt...

I have thought about triclover also, but wanted to do a larger triclover and a countersunk element to really get the base of the element into the wort... and Triclover lets you block it off for other uses such as gas, huge mash drain if you use it as a MLT, etc.. yours is very sano, I like it a lot!

-mike

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Old 08-03-2011, 03:15 PM   #14
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Trying to pass an x-ray inspection?!

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Old 08-03-2011, 03:26 PM   #15
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I've got a Dynasty 300DX, but i'm a totaly noob to TIG. My first attempt welding to my keg didn't turn out super pretty. How do you prep the keg and locknut? Also, could you outline your welding settings (amps, filler, etc.). It would be VERY much appreciated!!!

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Old 08-03-2011, 03:43 PM   #16
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50-60A should be enough to do a sankey keg... 30 for a corney.. you can use more, but you want to be in the last 1/3 or the foot pedal, last 1/4-1/5 if you can.. gives much more precision.. the warmer the work, the less current required...

filler rod should not be so small you use it all up(0.050"), nor bigger than your puddle(0.125)... 1/16th I think is what i use... maybe 3/32".

I am pretty sure that anyone that TIG's here will agree for advice for a TIG noob.

1 - take a welding class at the local community college
2 - practice, practice, practice, TIG is like good penmanship
3 - take the 10 minutes to sturdy the work piece and a way to steady your arm to get comfortable relaxed movement from your torch

-mike

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Old 08-03-2011, 11:13 PM   #17
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Thanks, Mike! That is a Bridgeport back there. I wanted so bad to stand the keg up on its table and cut the top off with a giant fly cutter, but the keg is too tall! I knew I should have bought that riser for the mill...

If you seriously want to make a motorized cutter for kegs, there is one snag you might hit- the top of the keg is flexy. The rigidity to hold the cutter firmly against the keg just isn't there. I bet it would chatter like a bit**. I felt the flexing and chattering when I cut mine. If you could somehow sturdy up the cutter by using the rolled lip at the top of the keg you would probably be in business. Build a roller bearing into the design and have it ride on the underside of that lip. Make the cutter depth adjustable so you can adjust the pressure at the cutter. You will still probably have an issue with the cutter grabbing and getting stuck when it breaks through, though. How about a similar device, but instead of using a lathe bit, use a vertically mounted electric motor spinning an 1/8" end mill? There wouldn't be a breakthrough problem with that. You would have to slow the motor down with a VFD or gears. Rigidity would still be very important in this setup, but my gut tells me that it would not have to be quite as rigid as the other design.

My back purge setup is nothing fancy. That clear shroud is a cheap feta cheese container from the grocery store... lol... trimmed to fit the contour of the keg. It held up just fine to the heat, probably because I let the keg cool after welding each flat of the hex. When I was all done, the tape was still stuck to the keg and the container was not melted at all. I was pretty surprised! I had an extra argon regulator laying around that I use for back purging. I T'd off the argon cylinder so I could use two regulators at once. The black hose is what came with the regulator. It goes through an X cut into the cheese container with some clear packing tape to seal it up. Like I said, nothing fancy!

Quote:
Triclover lets you block it off for other uses
I actually never even thought that I'm be able to block my element hole until I read that. All I'll have to do is clamp an end cap to the end cap that's welded to my keg. Cool!
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:44 PM   #18
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Thanks for the compliments!
Nice brew system, Poolshark. I love the inverted keg. What pid are you using? I have the same spa panel, but there is no way that I could mount my Auber in it as it's 4" deep. Do you have any pics of the inside?
I have the Auber pid. It fits with about 3/8" clearance behind it. I don't have pics of the inside yet but once my 3 wire RTD connector shows up I will take it apart and take pics.
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:48 PM   #19
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Really? What model is it? The buttons look slightly different than mine. Looking forward to the pics!

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Old 08-03-2011, 11:53 PM   #20
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Really? What model is it? The buttons look slightly different than mine. Looking forward to the pics!
I have the 2362.
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