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-   -   Kal Clone Version X (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/kal-clone-version-x-288793/)

grupe 12-22-2011 02:58 PM

Kal Clone Version X
Here is the start of yet another thread on a clone of Kal’s amazing setup. First off I would like to say that Kal did an amazing job. We can debate his choice of materials all day long, but that really isn’t the point. He did it one way and it turned out amazing. We are going to do it a slightly different way due to our limited monetary resources and we expect to produce something amazing as well.
We knew we wanted to build a tree type setup to reduce the foot print of the set. We also wanted it on wheels so that we could move it around as need. I started off by welding up a frame out of metal that was given to me when purchasing some other stuff off CL. Here is a picture of what it looked like when I was getting started.


Here is a picture of the stand it its somewhat final layout. I did end up moving the BV up about 4 inches so that we didn’t have to worry about priming the wort pump.


We are using copper for our HERMS coil. We found that bending the tube around a 10 inch OD stove pipe made the job very easy. We had the entire 50’ wrapped up nicely in about 10 minutes.


At this point we have received a few of our parts orders. I will update the thread with details on them shortly.

kal 12-23-2011 06:30 PM


I'm curious to see my setup done vertically! ;)


grupe 12-23-2011 07:00 PM


I am glad to see you are going to keep an eye on this one. So no one has replicated your work vertically? That seems surprising. BTW: You got any ideas where to find the GFCI cord you have in your manual. Either I am searching wrong or the world has run out of them.

kal 12-23-2011 07:37 PM


Originally Posted by grupe (Post 3596723)
So no one has replicated your work vertically? That seems surprising.

They may have but I'm not aware of it. I don't find it surprising however: As far as I can tell there are only 2 reasons to go vertical (multi-tier) on brewing setups instead of single tier:

1. To save money as you can build a simpler setup and gravity feed instead of having to use 1 or 2 pumps.
2. To save space.

If you have the space and don't mind having to buy 2 pumps then a single tier setup has many advantages as it is much easier to use as everything is easier to access and safer (no step ladder needed).


BTW: You got any ideas where to find the GFCI cord you have in your manual. Either I am searching wrong or the world has run out of them
I do not - sorry!


grupe 12-28-2011 03:25 PM

12-27-2011 progress
We have been working on the control box over the last few days. I would highly suggest buying the punch tools that Kal suggests or at least spending the money to buy good step bits. We are using the $15 ones from Harbor Freight and they are making this a very long and painful process. One thing that in found that helps a lot is drilling one step on the bits and then grinding the lip down on the inside and outside of the box. I have a drill press and that is making the job a lot easier, but it is too small to reach the two middle holes hence the picture of the cover clamped to the work bench. I also made the decision to move the lights and switches for the pumps to the left of the panel. That gives me some room in case I want to add something else in the future (like two flow meters).


The bottom of the box is done. We didn’t follow Kal’s design here and will show pictures of the final install after we clean and paint the box.


We took the mounting board out of the control box so we could drill the mount holes with the drill press. Since we were unable to find the cord that Kal references in his build, we went a different route. What we ended up doing is buying a spa panel, take the guts out of it and mounting the GFCI to the mounting board. I had thought about just putting a GFCI in my garage sub panel, but the GFCIs where more expensive than the spa panel. I had also thought about mounting the spa panel next to my sub panel in my garage, but I kind of want to keep this thing portable so the best design I could come up with. We are building in the safety safe start interlock so we ended up getting four relays which are mounted along the bottom. Below the relays is the shunt for the AMP display.


Over the weekend we got the stuff to build the CFC. I texted my buddy that can solder and he said come on over. About 30 minutes later we ended up with a CFC. I still need to weld in one more cross member as I want it semi securely connected to the main frame.
Some notes:
1. We wound the copper around a paint can. I would highly suggest building the ends and getting the vinyl tube on top of the copper before trying to build a nice looking coil.
2. I decided to mount the CVC below the mash tank for two reasons. The first was we didn’t want I right above the boil vessel where hot steam would be hitting it. The second reason is that we will hardly need any hose to get from the BV to the pump to the CVC. This of course means less wasted beer being left behind in the lines.


The remaining parts for the weldless fitting are scheduled to show up today. I still have about a hundred things to do, but we are getting closer. I would really like to finish working on the control box tonight, but I guess we will see what the wife has scheduled for me.

509inc 12-28-2011 03:53 PM

Clear hose for the CFC. Brilliant!

grupe 01-03-2012 04:32 PM

1-3-2012 update
We got the final parts from MoreBeer to finish the weldless fittings and Proflow to finish the quick connectors. Since we got the parts, it was time to install the HERMS coil. It was a little painful to say the least. Not sure if you can tell, but I put in a “U” loop to hold up the HERMS coil. Basically I took a piece of left over copper, bent it into a “U”, split the ends with a hack saw, slid the slits over the coil and bent them over. I also drill a few holes in the bottom of the “U” loop so that water could drain out of the loop when not in use. I am not sure how important this is, but it seemed like a good idea.


It was then time to check to make sure the HLT and MLT tanks would hold water. I left the valves open for the HERMS coil open to see if water was leaking into it as it should have ran out if it was leaking.


I finally finished the cover and got it painted. The install of the switches, PIDs, Lights, etc went fairly well. As you may notice, the volt meter, timer and alarm reset are missing. We have elected to purchase and install these later. We wouldn’t have purchased the amp meter either, but we needed a template to cut the holes and wanted to mount the shunt.


Not really part of the core build, but the Monster Mill showed up. With the help of my kids, we built the base and mounted it to the mill. Not sure if you can see in the picture, but we cut another piece to act as a lip so that mill would not easily slide off the bucket.


kal 01-03-2012 05:10 PM


Originally Posted by grupe (Post 3623156)
Not sure if you can tell, but I put in a “U” loop to hold up the HERMS coil.

This is interesting. Did you find that your copper coil doesn't hold itself up enough without this support? I'm surprised. My coil's stainless which is stiffer but I doubt it matters in terms of holding itself up. (I don't use or feel the need to use anything to hold up the HERMS coil - it's only attached at the kettle walls in 2 spots).


Lucky_Chicken 01-03-2012 05:32 PM

Nice looking build! I may have to borrow your idea for holding the coil up for use in my chiller on my BK.

grupe 01-03-2012 05:39 PM


Over engineering I guess. I am sure it would have been fine without the support for a very long time, but at the same time we are designing this to be portable if need be. Putting the setup in the back of the pickup and driving a few hours concerned me. At least in my mind right now, I am also sure I would have done the same thing if I would have used SS instead of copper. By no means do I think this should become the "standard" on mounting HERMS coils, but maybe it should be for rigs that are going to get moved.


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