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Old 09-30-2012, 03:36 AM   #1
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Default Kal build checklist for first power-up?

My electrician should be installing my panel/gfci/outlet for my control panel. Until now, it has never been plugged in or turned on.

Some things are obvious, like put water in the bk/hlt so I dont accidentally dry fire the elements.

Any other suggestions? My plan is to leave it closed (though one person suggested having the door open, to see/smell if anything starts burning).

This is what I had in mind:
1) Prep water as mentioned above. (all panel switches off)
2) Disconnect pump, temp, and element cables
3) Connect power cable
4) plug it into the outlet
5) turn the power switch
6) take note of the volt/amp meters
7) plug in the bk cable
8) use a thermometer to see if the element is heating
9) turn element select to bk
10) verify heating with thermometer
11) plug in hlt cord
12) step 8 but for hlt
13) element select switch to hlt
14) step 10 but for hlt
15) plug in thermometer cords
16) check temp readouts on pids
17) connect hose bk output to pump1 input and hose from pump1 output to bk input
18) open valve to prime pump
19) step 17 but with hlt and pump2
20) plug both pumps into control panel
21) turn on pump1 (wort pump) then off
22) turn on pump2 (water pump) then off
23) following kals plans, start setting up PIDs
24) test timer with buzzer
25) test element with target temp (hlt) from pid
26) test alarm with target temps in bk/hlt
27) pump or dump water into mlt and test thermometer

Anything I am forgetting to test before I plan my first e-brew?
Thanks!

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Old 09-30-2012, 04:34 AM   #2
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I wouldn't worry about checking to see if its heating, You'll know right away if it heating. You'll see heat waves coming off of the elements and don't be surprised if you hear low pitch humming, or slight vibrating from your kettle. Thats normal especially if you have the kettle on a hard surface.

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Old 09-30-2012, 05:03 PM   #3
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When I did my "spark" test, the only things I had plugged in was the rtd's. Switched the system on and started poking around with my multimeter. I made sure I didn't have any stray currents anywhere, all switches, and that the outputs (120 and 240) was getting power as it should. But main reason I did it that way was my kettles are not finished yet. I still need to figure put how I want to mount my elements.

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Old 09-30-2012, 07:37 PM   #4
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The fact that you even have a checklist like this infers to me that you were probably pretty thorough in your build. I know that first flip of the breaker feeling, but I'll bet your good.

Good luck!

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Old 10-01-2012, 12:08 AM   #5
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NewBrewB,

2) Disconnect pump, temp, and element cables
8) use a thermometer to see if the element is heating
15) plug in thermometer cords
Keep in mind that the PIDs will not function without a temp probe.
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:41 AM   #6
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I would say you have a pretty thorough list going. And x2 to pjs advice.

I'm not sure your brewing experience with all grain and the use of pumps with switches, false bottoms, sparging, recirculating, etc...at the risk of not sounding too arrogant, just go in with the mind set of a large learning curve and you will feel more comfortable. Kal does an amazing job of explaining a brew day, but just remember each system is slightly different. You will learn a tremendous amount each time you brew as to how your system reacts to different variables. Enjoy because you will love it.

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Old 10-01-2012, 06:05 AM   #7
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Thanks for the responses!

P-J, when you say the PIDs will not work without temp probes, do you mean that I cant use a heating element at all? I thought I would at least be able to use manual mode 100% to test (or do an extract batch) while finishing up the other parts of the system. It absolutely makes sense that I could not do any type of "learning" or targeted heating without the probe being connected but how about manual?

As for my AG experience, I have none. I built this system to make one jump from 8gal propane 5gal extract batches (some partial mash) to all grain. Looking forward to the learning curve but I may need pitons and a dynamic line to climb it.

As for the suggestion of poking around inside with a multimeter while it is powered up, I am not a big fan. Hoping I can use logic and a step by step approach to troubleshoot and locate the problem before disconnecting it to make any repairs. I was never too good at "operation" as a kid.

Thanks again all. I will let ya know how it goes.

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Old 10-01-2012, 10:18 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewBrewB View Post
Thanks for the responses!

P-J, when you say the PIDs will not work without temp probes, do you mean that I cant use a heating element at all? I thought I would at least be able to use manual mode 100% to test (or do an extract batch) while finishing up the other parts of the system. It absolutely makes sense that I could not do any type of "learning" or targeted heating without the probe being connected but how about manual?

...
The Auber Inbstruments PID SYL-2352 requires that a temp probe be connected for it to function. This includes manual mode. Just connect one and you can use it in manual mode.
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Old 11-05-2012, 02:45 AM   #9
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Realized I never closed the loop on this. I mostly followed my checklist. Unfortunately, the checklist didn't include the necessary step of programming the PIDs. After checking amd re-checking, I finalky realized the prob.

Only thing that doesnt work is the volt meter. One of my variable output devices that goes between the volt meter and the doorbell transformer didnt work. I have not gotten around to ordering a new one. $5 part with slow shipping from china. Ohwell

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