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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Joeybeer's Single Vessel 5500w Artsy Build
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Old 11-29-2011, 05:11 PM   #1
joeybeer
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Default Joeybeer's Single Vessel 5500w Artsy Build

I brew about 2 x 10gallon batches and 2 x 5 gallon batches per month and I'm planning on switching over my single vessel keggle, cooler mashtun all-grain propane setup to electric. I need to have some work done on the electric panel in the house, so I figure while the electrician's here - why not !

I'm doing a few things different than normal (as usual) and wanted to run some ideas past the far more knowledgeable people than me on this forum, so I figure I'll fire away with off the wall questions, eventually come to some sort of conclusion, and document the build with photos for people to search for in the future !

So here goes :

1) I want to design my control panel visually, with a little room for upgrades, then figure out how to wire it (I've been studying P-J's diagrams for a while now, and I'm not thinking of anything too off the wall, just a slight modification)

2) I have a stainless control box already, it's 14.75" x 7" and 6" deep, and instead of putting the switches through the door, I'd like to mount them in wood inset inside the door, leaving around 4" behind the face. Is that enough space for a SSR ?

3) Is the Auber PID really that small ?? 1/16din is only 1.89"x1.89", i thought it would be twice that size !

4) I'm considering mounting the element to a 1.5" triclover cap with metal work box, and welding a 1.5 triclover on the back of the keggle. I'm thinking that for simplicity (and $) sake, I would wire it straight into the control panel without a 30amp locking receptacle and plug. I'll just undo the triclamp after I powerdown and unplug the control panel, then store the CP and the element together. Has anyone else done that ??

Thanks so much for any help !

Here is a pic of my current plan (I want to include the HLT BK selector for a future upgrade)

The switches are all the usual stuff :
Estop - automationdirect.com GCX3139
Selectors (PID, Alarm, Fan, Pump) - Grainger 2VLN5
Kettle select lights - Grainger 1XWL6
Kettle select switch - Grainger 2TPF8 ?
Alarm Buzzer - Auber FLBuz






I've learned so much on this forum already !

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Old 11-29-2011, 05:20 PM   #2
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Just noticed how similar P-J's diagram is to my idea (minus the alarm and HLT BK lights)

http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/imag...30a-e-stop.jpg

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Old 11-29-2011, 06:27 PM   #3
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I think the depth of the PID will be a bigger concern. The SSR itself should be relatively thin but the heat sink will be a lot larger thats why most people put them outside the box.

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Old 11-29-2011, 06:46 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeybeer View Post
2) I have a stainless control box already, it's 14.75" x 7" and 6" deep, and instead of putting the switches through the door, I'd like to mount them in wood inset inside the door, leaving around 4" behind the face. Is that enough space for a SSR ?

3) Is the Auber PID really that small ?? 1/16din is only 1.89"x1.89", i thought it would be twice that size !

4) I'm considering mounting the element to a 1.5" triclover cap with metal work box, and welding a 1.5 triclover on the back of the keggle. I'm thinking that for simplicity (and $) sake, I would wire it straight into the control panel without a 30amp locking receptacle and plug. I'll just undo the triclamp after I powerdown and unplug the control panel, then store the CP and the element together. Has anyone else done that ??

Thanks so much for any help !
The SSR will fit, (it's about 3.5" tall, give or take, after mounting it on the heat sink). The PID will be a very tight fit though...it's just about bang on at 4". The PID really is 1.9"x1.9"...but that's big enough to get the job done.

As for #4, I haven't seen that, but it should work. I went a different route. I got a 4' 3 wire dryer cord, chopped it to about 1", and wired that to the element. I have an outlet mounted to the brew table in a $4 splashproof enclosure, (looks like this), and used the remaining 3 feet of dryer cord to go from the outlet to my control panel. The wire was $9, the outlet was $6. Total cost, $20, and half of that was just the cost of the cord. You won't find 10/3 wire for less than $2/ft, and mine was $2.25/ft including the plug....cheap, and it gives you the ability to disconnect the element from the control panel so you can bring it over to your sink and clean it.
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:00 PM   #5
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Great idea ShortyJacobs ! I'll add that to the list of things to think through ! BTW your kegerator is great !

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Old 11-29-2011, 08:42 PM   #6
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I'm a little confused by your wood inset idea. are you talking about cutting out part of the SS door and mounting a piece of wood?

That would mean you lose any water resistance. You could also have a hard time mounting the switches, since they are usually designed to be mounted to thinner material, usually thinner then 1/4". From a electricians POV, the code says any combustible material can not be part of an electrical enclosure.

Not deal breakers but some considerations.

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Old 11-29-2011, 10:16 PM   #7
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4) I'm considering mounting the element to a 1.5" triclover cap with metal work box, and welding a 1.5 triclover on the back of the keggle. I'm thinking that for simplicity (and $) sake, I would wire it straight into the control panel without a 30amp locking receptacle and plug. I'll just undo the triclamp after I powerdown and unplug the control panel, then store the CP and the element together. Has anyone else done that ??
Why not just get a 1.5" TC x 1" NPT adaptor?
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:17 PM   #8
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Lazybean - Thanks for the heads up ! Actually, I'm planning on putting the wood 1" deep inside the door. If that makes sense...

You'll open the sealed door with a latch, then swing it open to reveal the wood panel inside, it should be more waterproof than the normal exposed switches, but I see what you mean about the wood in the panel.. hopefully it'll be fine

Bowhuntah - That puppy is like $70 bucks !! I'm just going to drill out a $3 - 1.5" TC cap, then either use a weldless fitting, or get my welder friend to TIG on a 1" nut

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Old 11-29-2011, 11:22 PM   #9
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My next step is to drill out the holes for the fittings in the wood. I don't see any other glaring problems so far..

My next steps will be to double check the holes & layout, drill and finish the wood and graphics, then order the triclamp parts and send them off to the welder with my kettle. (I hope to brew one more batch before then)

I did notice that contactors are more pricey that I thought. Is anyone using a heavy duty switch without them ? How safe/scary is that ?

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Old 11-29-2011, 11:25 PM   #10
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Bowhuntah - That puppy is like $70 bucks !! I'm just going to drill out a $3 - 1.5" TC cap, then either use a weldless fitting, or get my welder friend to TIG on a 1" nut
$14 at Stpats.
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