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 Home Brew Forums > Interlock Circuit for Brew Panel
02-09-2014, 05:55 AM   #31
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Vcc - pin 14
GND - pin 7

All four elements inside this IC are equal and both inputs at each element are equal as well. So you can chose any 3 elements.
For example input pins on left side of diagram from top to bottom 1,2 4,5 9,10. Corresponded outputs on right side (from top to bottom) - 3,6,8

I did check a datasheet for Mypin - it said SSR output is 24Volts. So I'd recommend to swap 1K and 4.7K resister. Ie use 4.7K instead 1K and 1K instead 4.7k.

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02-09-2014, 10:23 PM   #32
kenh
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by Brumateur Vcc - pin 14 GND - pin 7 All four elements inside this IC are equal and both inputs at each element are equal as well. So you can chose any 3 elements. For example input pins on left side of diagram from top to bottom 1,2 4,5 9,10. Corresponded outputs on right side (from top to bottom) - 3,6,8 I did check a datasheet for Mypin - it said SSR output is 24Volts. So I'd recommend to swap 1K and 4.7K resister. Ie use 4.7K instead 1K and 1K instead 4.7k.
Thanks, I figured out on-line which pin is power and which pin is ground. I also saw the on-line drawings of the inside of the IC but I did not know if some elements worked different or were better than others.

Since you don't have capacitors in your drawing do they wire in between the power and ground pins? The capacitors are two small disks with leads coming out close together from the edge.
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02-10-2014, 04:05 AM   #33
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Yes install one near the IC and connect it between Vcc and ground.
When you turn on your setup first time - use incandescent lampinstead of heater. This way you can easily verify how does it work without the risk of overloading.

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03-07-2014, 02:29 PM   #34
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I finally wired up the part, I followed Brumateur instructions, and it does not work. A friend of mine brought his meter over and did some measuring last night and said as far as he can tell it's wired right and I blew the part up! If the IC is that sensitive then I don't want it!

I emailed the guy at www.kegkits.com again last night. He responded this morning stating he's just using a relay with a 24V coil for the interlock. To me a relay seems like a better solution than a power supply and resistors and capacitors and blowing up another part. Does anyone have an idea how to do this with just a relay? Which relay would I use?

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03-12-2014, 09:30 AM   #35
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It's very sad to hear this news. To compensate your loss I can build.you an interlock circuit for free if you pay me just \$10 for shipping and handling.

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03-12-2014, 01:44 PM   #36
kenh
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by Brumateur It's very sad to hear this news. To compensate your loss I can build.you an interlock circuit for free if you pay me just \$10 for shipping and handling.
That's OK, my friend looked closer at my circuit and he says I reversed the resistors and put too much voltage on the IC. I was really PISSED when I posted the other day and now I'm just mad at myself for wiring it wrong. He said that if I will buy another IC on Friday he will help me wire it this weekend. He also said that he should be able to put the interlock circuit inside one of my PIDs which would be really cool!
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03-15-2014, 04:10 PM   #37
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My buddy came over last night. He made a quick drawing of how everything is hooked up then we took out the PID running my mash tun.

I watched while he worked - he took off the PID cover then he made some measurements with power connected through two alligator clips. Then he turned off power and wired everything up. The IC is kind of floating inside the PID close to the end with the screws and it's all taped up with electrical tape. Also he cut-off all the IC legs but the ones he needed and he cut those ones short.

After he was done with that one he had to pull the other PID out because he had to connect the two together with a wire. He also said last night that maybe I did not blow up the first part, maybe the internal voltage between the two PIDs blew up the part? Anyways he said that connecting the two together would make sure it did not happen again.

Now I have one black wire running from inside the hot liquor tank PID to inside the mash tun PID - that's the wire that connects them together. The red SSR wire from the hot liquor tank PID runs to inside the mash tun PID. A new red SSR wire runs from inside the mash tun PID to the + screw on my hot liquor tank SSR. He did not use the power supply or capacitors because he did not need them but he did use two resistors.

I started up the mash tun with enough water to keep the RIMS tube full and started up the hot liquor tank with enough water to cover the element and it works!!!!!

I bumped up the hot liquor tank temperature to 250 to make sure it would boil then I watched the PIDs and I watched the water in my hot liquor tank in the mirror I have mounted above the tank. Both PIDs stay on but when the red mash PID light comes on the hot liquor tank boil stops.

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03-15-2014, 04:13 PM   #38
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by kenh My buddy came over last night. He made a quick drawing of how everything is hooked up then we took out the PID running my mash tun. I watched while he worked - he took off the PID cover then he made some measurements with power connected through two alligator clips. Then he turned off power and wired everything up. The IC is kind of floating inside the PID close to the end with the screws and it's all taped up with electrical tape. Also he cut-off all the IC legs but the ones he needed and he cut those ones short. After he was done with that one he had to pull the other PID out because he had to connect the two together with a wire. He also said last night that maybe I did not blow up the first part, maybe the internal voltage between the two PIDs blew up the part? Anyways he said that connecting the two together would make sure it did not happen again. Now I have one black wire running from inside the hot liquor tank PID to inside the mash tun PID - that's the wire that connects them together. The red SSR wire from the hot liquor tank PID runs to inside the mash tun PID. A new red SSR wire runs from inside the mash tun PID to the + screw on my hot liquor tank SSR. He did not use the power supply or capacitors because he did not need them but he did use two resistors. I started up the mash tun with enough water to keep the RIMS tube full and started up the hot liquor tank with enough water to cover the element and it works!!!!! I bumped up the hot liquor tank temperature to 250 to make sure it would boil then I watched the PIDs and I watched the water in my hot liquor tank in the mirror I have mounted above the tank. Both PIDs stay on but when the red mash PID light comes on the hot liquor tank boil stops.
Also, I emailed the guys at www.kegkits.com & let them know that my interlock works without a relay!
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03-15-2014, 06:07 PM   #39
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Glad to hear that everything works as expected. Have your friend did any modification to schematic I suggested?

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03-15-2014, 06:28 PM   #40
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Quote:
 Originally Posted by Brumateur Glad to hear that everything works as expected. Have your friend did any modification to schematic I suggested?
I gave him a printout of your schematic and he studied it, but I really don't know. He's interested in brewing beer and he's supposed to come over next time I brew a batch. I'll ask him then.

Also he brought over his own solder and soldering iron. He told me that my solder is for plumbing work and should not be used on eletronic parts. The tip of his iron is tiny compared to my solderng gun. I can see why I was having trouble soldering to my first IC - I kept shorting the legs together.
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