Integrated HERMS coil
 

So I'm about to buy a SS HERMS coil for my upgrade. My dilemma is that I can't decide whether to mount the coil through the wall of the HLT, or build it like an immersion chiller where I can drop it down into the HLT from above.

Dropping it in would allow easier cleaning inside the HLT and would make it easier to use the HLT for other things if needed.

Building it through-wall would make it a "one-and-done" build with no hands on anything to do later. Limiting the HLT somewhat, but I can't really identify anything else I'd want to use the HLT for either.

I already have a CFC and plan on upgrading to a PC sometime after I complete the EHERMS system. I never plan to use the HERMS coil as a chiller.

What are the pros and cons to each method? Something I've not thought about? I need to choose one or the other so the kid whose car I repaired can buy it for me.

Oh, and I need to decide how long it should be for a 5 Gallon batch. I don't plan on ever going larger than that.

My last HERMS I mounted the coil. It was nice that it was all one unit. The cons, it added extra weight, and you had to drill two hole into your HLT plus the added costs of fittings. It really gets in the way. My 1bbl build will be a removable coil like an IC. Easy cleaning, less holes in the kettle. For a 5 gallon batch, you'd be good with 25ft 3/8th.

Mine is mounted. It seemed like a better idea than having to fiddle with something dangling in the kettle. I haven't really had to clean my hlt since all that goes in it is water. I have have run star San in the kettle to clean up the copper coil once or twice. I also pump it through the coil every so often. I have a 25ft 1/2" coil. It would be more than enough. If I was going to do it again I would get a stainless coil but at the time no one I could find would bend 1/2" cheaply. I think there is a new stainless vendor on the forum with good prices.

Yeah, I'm going to hit him up for my coil. Great prices!

A guy at work recommended mounting it through the "lid" that I made when cutting the opening. With thumbscrews, I can adjust the height if need be, and since it's built into the lid, I can cover the HLT and taking it out is as easy as lifting the lid off.

I'm kind of leaning towards doing it this way. No holes in the HLT in case I need to make changes later, and I can easily take the HERMS COIL out if I wanted to use it for a sous vide cooker or something.

Just bought a coil from Stainless Brewing. Sexy! The workmanship is very nice. The ends are round after bending. Zach was very patient as I changed my order no less than 5 times! I got 25' of 1/2" to put in a 10 gallon pot.

I would not hesitate for a second to order another. Next time I'd go smaller though. 12" diameter in a 16" pot is a tight fit to install. Of course I hope not to take it apart often. Oh mounted through side using weldless bulkhead from Brewers Hardware. SB bulkhead looks nice too but my holes were already drilled. Plus BH one is "full bore" or whatever meaning stainless tubing slides completely through it.

My hlt and kettle are the same size pot so I mounted my herms coil through the lid so it doubles as an IC as well as my herms coil. It really all depends on your system since everyone's system is different. One draw back to my approach though is that I can't simply put my IC in the boil with 15 minutes left because it has the lid. I have to sanitize mine with sanitizer. But it is nice to not have the coil permanently mounted because I like using my HLT to boil water and for other projects.

Well I think it would be ok to cover it after the full 60 minute boil. By then all o the precursors should be boiled out.

I was planning on mounting my HERMS/Chiller coil through the lid. It just seemed easier and more functional that way. Although I did see a build where the chiller coil was welded right inside the BK and I had to admit that may be more functional than re-routing boiled wort back through the HLT to chill. I plan on doing most of my brewing outdoors though so getting water to the chiller may be a bit of a challenge in December and January in Montana.

precursors (SMM, DMSO) are never gone entirely. boiling reduces the compounds that are readily detectable (DMS), but precursors to those compounds are always in the beer. even if you boil for several hours, if you were to seal it up and let the wort sit at elevated temperature for a long time more off flavors would form again. there are always going to be the necessary elements to create DMS present in the wort (elemental sulphur, carbon, hydrogen), and the heat energy is what drive its formation from other elements or compounds.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Dimethyl_sulfides

See? Learn something new every day.

I priced out a coil, and the prices of a 25F 3/8" coil is not even close to making up for the amount of work went into changing both struts, ball joints (drill and grind the old ones out), replace right side control arm, and dealing with the internet parts supplier. Not to mention the welding patch to the right side frame rail, which was close to rusting through completely.

Stainless Brewings prices are just too cheap! (Don't tell them!)