Spike Brewing 12.5 Conical Fermenter Giveaway!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > I want to brew electric and not kill myself: please help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 12-12-2012, 07:54 PM   #1
inhousebrew
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: minneapolis, minnesota
Posts: 1,424
Liked 121 Times on 110 Posts
Likes Given: 36

Default I want to brew electric and not kill myself: please help

If you all have been reading the electrical forum section recently you have probably noticed me asking a bunch of really simple questions. Well, it's because I don't really know much about electronics but living here in MN the concept of electric brewing has really appealed to me after this last snowfall and freeze. After scouring this forum I know way more than I did two weeks ago and have started to think seriously about this. I'm getting the 2352 PID and a 4" RTD sensor from auberins.com for Christmas so I need to figure out what to do with them.

This thread has really inspired me because I like the regulating of temp by recirculating the mash and the simplicity/space efficiency of BIAB. I'm also limited to my kitchen outlets so 120v and like doing 2.5-3 gallon batches. This thread here has also been of a great help for detailing some of the wiring basics so I feel more confident about doing something like this. So thanks to aubiecat, jbr03, P-J and many others.

I've attached a rudimentary drawing (I tried using some design software and it was too hard) of what I'm thinking about. It's pretty simple (I think) and should work (I believe). I have some basic run of the mill light switches laying around and was thinking of incorporating them for the element and the pump because they are rated high enough to handle them.

Will this work? Do I need to ground the light switches: I know there's a screw for that? Other thoughts, questions, critiques? Of course, I'll have a buddy who is an electrician check everything before I fire it up but I'd like to do as much as I can to learn.

img_1327.jpg  
__________________

I hate Walder Frey...

inhousebrew is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-12-2012, 08:35 PM   #2
inhousebrew
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: minneapolis, minnesota
Posts: 1,424
Liked 121 Times on 110 Posts
Likes Given: 36

Default

I stand corrected, those are 15A light switches I have.
Also, the more I think about it I think I might toss in a alarm buzzer and switch. Maybe...

__________________

I hate Walder Frey...

inhousebrew is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-12-2012, 08:52 PM   #3
jCOSbrew
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 610
Liked 37 Times on 33 Posts
Likes Given: 7

Default

At the local HD or lowes you will find a higher current 20-30 amp light switch. Use this type for the element and consider putting it at the 110v input to the SSR instead of the output.

I would add a 110v indicator light for Element ON and Pump ON. Maybe add a fuse for the pump power.

I am using a low power Topsflow solar pump (<1amp @ 110V). If you are using a higher power pump make sure the element + pump power does not exceed the circuit rating.

Make sure you are using a 20 amp GFCI outlet.

__________________
jCOSbrew is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-13-2012, 08:45 PM   #4
inhousebrew
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: minneapolis, minnesota
Posts: 1,424
Liked 121 Times on 110 Posts
Likes Given: 36

Default

Alright, so move the switch from going out of the SSR to the element to the hot wire going into the SSR. The pump is a pretty small one so I'm not too worried about that.

__________________

I hate Walder Frey...

inhousebrew is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-13-2012, 08:55 PM   #5
jCOSbrew
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 610
Liked 37 Times on 33 Posts
Likes Given: 7

Default

Also make sure your power circuit is a 20 amp GFCI.

__________________
jCOSbrew is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-14-2012, 07:39 PM   #6
inhousebrew
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: minneapolis, minnesota
Posts: 1,424
Liked 121 Times on 110 Posts
Likes Given: 36

Default

Well the first step is complete and the pump is wired up and working. Only a 12VDC power supply so not too worried about it sucking up a bunch of power. I caught this pump for ~$60 but it has gone up in price since then.

http://www.ussolarpumps.com/onlinestore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_22&produc ts_id=32

__________________

I hate Walder Frey...

inhousebrew is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-21-2012, 02:39 AM   #7
inhousebrew
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: minneapolis, minnesota
Posts: 1,424
Liked 121 Times on 110 Posts
Likes Given: 36

Default

So I'm slowly moving forward with all of this. Have some parts coming and a kettle picked out that I should be able to basically get for free via Midwest Supplies Rewards program. I was messing around on my fancy Microsoft Paint application and came up with this diagram. Anyone see any issues.

electrical-outline-without-buzzer.jpg  
__________________

I hate Walder Frey...

inhousebrew is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-21-2012, 03:22 AM   #8
stlbeer
Senior Member
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
stlbeer's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Fenton, MO
Posts: 876
Liked 32 Times on 31 Posts
Likes Given: 82

Default

Make sure your internal wiring has the capacity to handle the amps.

__________________
My RIMS eBrewery build
stlbeer is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-21-2012, 04:27 AM   #9
inhousebrew
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: minneapolis, minnesota
Posts: 1,424
Liked 121 Times on 110 Posts
Likes Given: 36

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by stlbeer View Post
Make sure your internal wiring has the capacity to handle the amps.
12 gauge wire for the hot lines to the switches? The pid doesn't require as much power so I can use a higher gauge wire? What about the neutral and ground wires? What gauge should those be?
__________________

I hate Walder Frey...

inhousebrew is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-21-2012, 12:50 PM   #10
stlbeer
Senior Member
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
stlbeer's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Fenton, MO
Posts: 876
Liked 32 Times on 31 Posts
Likes Given: 82

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by inhousebrew View Post
12 gauge wire for the hot lines to the switches? The pid doesn't require as much power so I can use a higher gauge wire? What about the neutral and ground wires? What gauge should those be?
12 gauge for any circuit carrying load for your element (hot, neutral, and ground).

16 gauge for powering the PID, though that's overkill.

16 or 20 gauge for the PID control circuits.
__________________
My RIMS eBrewery build
stlbeer is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Winter kills brew day, did it kill yeast? mushin General Beer Discussion 3 11-02-2011 01:01 PM
electric brew with no electric LKHA General Beer Discussion 6 04-11-2011 12:09 AM
For Sale - WTB - Electric Brew Rig MSKBeerfan For Sale 16 12-30-2010 06:28 PM
If curiosity doesn't kill my cat... it'll kill me. pkincaid General Beer Discussion 14 10-28-2010 10:41 PM
Another Brew....I hope I didn't kill it! talleymonster General Techniques 6 07-29-2007 05:00 PM