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Old 01-14-2014, 02:16 PM   #31
Paulillo
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Originally Posted by kzimmer0817 View Post
Paulillo,
I have a few questions about your diagram since it appears to answer a question I have had regarding my own build - although mine will not be exactly like yours.

1. Which PID are you using? You mentioned 220V PID. I will be doing a 220V build, and the PID I'm considering is powered by one of the 110V legs. I understand why you can't do that without a neutral.
The PID is a REX C700. It can be powered by 220, 110 and even 24v. Not the best PID for this application but will work. Check some pictures on page 2 of this thread.

I can't use the neutral because my outlet only delivers 220 (110 + 110) and Ground on 20A.

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Originally Posted by kzimmer0817 View Post
2. I assume that the 2 vertical wires attached to the top of your PID (lefthand pair) are providing the 220V power to your PID.

3. Regarding the 2nd pair of wires that "appears" to be attached to your PID: is this simply an illusion? Does this pair go "around" your PID (you just couldn't draw it that way) in order to supply power to your 220VAC/12VDC transformer?
The lefthand wires are connected to the PID and the righthand are connected to the pump. In my previous lay out the 220v that connects to the pump was not shown and i received a few questions on how it is powered, so i draw them.
All power inputs are designed like "darker squares" (resembling connectors) in the components.
This design also is a visual guidance for me to assemble my box, were the PID, lights and switches will be attached on the door and the contator, SSr and transformer will be on the bottom of the box. Sorry if it looks a bit confused.

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Originally Posted by kzimmer0817 View Post
4. Which dimmer is attached to the other hot line? In my build, this would be a SSVR (looks like a SSR except it includes a potentiometer that allows it to control the amount of power going to the element).

I understand that this "dimmer" will allow you to adjust your boil when you're in either MANUAL mode or AUTO mode much like High Gravity's EBC-SV controller.
This "dimmer" is a SCR voltage regulator and you`re wright, this allows me to adjust the heating amount of my element in all the variants in the brew day (boiling, heath keeping, slow warming, etc).
It`s like this:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000W...154827239.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by kzimmer0817 View Post
5. Really, your 3-way DC switch (Auto/Off/Manual) is the solution that I was agonizing over in my build (which did not include a transformer).

In your AUTO mode, the SSR receives its DC signal from the PID. You're still able to control the power with your dimmer.

In your AUTO mode, the DC signal circuit from the PID to the SSR is interrupted, and your SSR receives a constant ON signal from the transformer.
Am I understanding this correctly?
Thank you for posting this,
Keith
Just a small correction:
In your MANUAL mode, the DC signal circuit from the PID to the SSR is interrupted, and your SSR receives a constant ON signal from the transformer.

The element power can be controlled in any situation (auto or manual).
The PID has RELAYS as outputs, so it can trigger the dc signal AUTO mode, and in MANUAL mode the dc signal is constant. In OFF mode, no signal is released.
For your guidance, the 3-way switch is wired like this:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachme...-off-auto3.jpg

I hope that this can help you.
Thanks
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Old 01-14-2014, 02:29 PM   #32
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Thank you, Paulillo, for your response. I was having trouble figuring out your correction in my question, then I realized that I had typed "AUTO" twice. Of course, it was "MANUAL" mode that I meant in the 2nd instance.

I will have neutral available in my build, so mine will be different from yours, but your has answered a question or two for me that I will be able to adapt to mine. Thanks for posting.
Keith

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