Kegconnection Complete Starter Kit and More Giveaway!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > I need a single PID, single element diagram

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 04-14-2011, 01:32 PM   #11
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,231
Liked 244 Times on 196 Posts
Likes Given: 430

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jhollist View Post
...
Only thing missing on the schematics you posted, P-J is the wiring of the temp probe.

Do you have something like that worked up?
Temp probe wiring is really covered in the PID manual. With that said:

Setup for a RTD probe.



Setup for a type K probe.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jhollist View Post
I took some liberties with your diagram P/J in irfanview. Keep in mind that I am know very little about electrical, but I feel I know enough to merely delete stuff!

Would this be an acceptable set-up for a PID controlled BIAB setup?
That's fine. I see no problem in doing it that way.
__________________
P-J is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-14-2011, 01:53 PM   #12
shelly_belly
Easy Wind
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
 
shelly_belly's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Rabbittown, Bama
Posts: 1,456
Liked 113 Times on 90 Posts
Likes Given: 17

Default

What is the difference between the 2352 and the 2362 PIDs and which one is better? I am doing a 240V HLT and have 45A SSrs. Thanks

__________________
shelly_belly is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-14-2011, 02:14 PM   #13
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,231
Liked 244 Times on 196 Posts
Likes Given: 430

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shelly_belly View Post
What is the difference between the 2352 and the 2362 PIDs and which one is better? I am doing a 240V HLT and have 45A SSrs. Thanks
Either one will work. The difference? The SYL-2352 PID uses "fuzzy logic" for its temperature control which provides better accuracy. Take a look at the manuals for each one for a better understanding.
__________________
P-J is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-14-2011, 03:11 PM   #14
jhollist
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Wakefield, RI
Posts: 21
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Default

Another quick question (and sorry to Hi-jack GRHunter!):

What plugs are best?

I was thinking either NEMA L6-30, NEMA 10-30, or NEMA 14-40 without using the neutral (are any of these unacceptable?) from element to panel and then a standard 4 wire plug (ala The Electric Brewery) from panel (hardwired) to 240v 30am GFCI receptacle.

the NEMA 10-30 and 14-40 are likely the cheapest options. Are they kosher though.....

__________________

Last edited by jhollist; 04-14-2011 at 06:37 PM. Reason: updated plug from element
jhollist is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-14-2011, 06:46 PM   #15
Mindar76
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Wilmington, De
Posts: 9
Default

Thanks for posting guys! I'm looking to do the same thing, a 5500k element, 240v, 30A, single pump, single PID, with dual temp probes (one for BK/HLT, one for MT) which all seems workable from some of PJ's diagrams (thanks, btw! Your work is astounding.) My only alteration is I want a secondary display to continually show the temp in the MT. I'll be using my old IC as the HERM coil, submerged in the BK/HLT, which will be controlled by the PID. In my head it's a simple on/of, PID display, secondary display, button for the element, button for the pump, big ol' E-stop button. Simple, sleek, small. Any suggestions?

Edit:
I've been looking at that diagram you linked to, P-J, for a while now. What I can figure for the element is simply eliminate the dual switch for the element in favor of a single switch, and cut out one of the pumps. That would take care of everything except the secondary display and the e-stop. What would you do to rig those into the existing diagrams?

__________________

Last edited by Mindar76; 04-14-2011 at 06:51 PM.
Mindar76 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-15-2011, 02:09 AM   #16
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,231
Liked 244 Times on 196 Posts
Likes Given: 430

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mindar76 View Post
I'm looking to do a 5500k element, 240v, 30A, single pump, single PID, with dual temp probes (one for BK/HLT, one for MT)

My only alteration is I want a secondary display to continually show the temp in the MT. I'll be using my old IC as the HERM coil, submerged in the BK/HLT, which will be controlled by the PID. In my head it's a simple on/of, PID display, secondary display, button for the element, button for the pump, big ol' E-stop button. Simple, sleek, small. Any suggestions?

I've been looking at that diagram you linked to, P-J, for a while now. What I can figure for the element is simply eliminate the dual switch for the element in favor of a single switch, and cut out one of the pumps. That would take care of everything except the secondary display and the e-stop.
Is this what you are looking for?

Auberin-wiring1-a4-5500w-30d.jpg

BTW: That will all fit in the Auber Instruments Project Box. Place the SYL- 1512 under the cutout for the SYL-2352.

P-J
__________________
P-J is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-15-2011, 06:03 AM   #17
Mindar76
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Wilmington, De
Posts: 9
Default

You, sir. Are amazing.

__________________
Mindar76 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-15-2011, 12:30 PM   #18
jkarp
Beer Herder
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
jkarp's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Elizabeth, CO
Posts: 2,105
Liked 33 Times on 29 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by P-J View Post
The HLT is the place where you would want to control the temperature so it's where the probe would normally go. No need for one in the boil kettle.
Though note the temp probe must remain connected to the PID - even when running in manual output mode for the boil.
__________________

Many Bothans died to bring you this information.

jkarp is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-15-2011, 12:56 PM   #19
jkarp
Beer Herder
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
jkarp's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Elizabeth, CO
Posts: 2,105
Liked 33 Times on 29 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shelly_belly View Post
What is the difference between the 2352 and the 2362 PIDs and which one is better?
They have slightly different feature sets. You may want to read through the spec sheets and see which you like more.

2362 supports SSR and relay outputs, has a limit operating mode, and is closer to a "traditional" PID (though it does have a configurable AI).

2352 is SSR only, and has a more sophisticated AI. It also uses an entirely different value for P (not proportional band) so experienced PID users may find it a bit strange.

IMO, the 2352 is probably better for the "auto-tune and forget" crowd who don't want to learn (or mess with) PID operation. Folks more comfortable with PIDs will probably prefer the 2362 which is easier to tweak into a critically damped system (for mash temp control).
__________________

Many Bothans died to bring you this information.

jkarp is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-27-2012, 12:15 AM   #20
itrider
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Plainfield, IL
Posts: 26
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jhollist View Post
I took some liberties with your diagram P/J in irfanview. Keep in mind that I am know very little about electrical, but I feel I know enough to merely delete stuff!

Would this be an acceptable set-up for a PID controlled BIAB setup?

jhollist, Do you have a higher resolution copy of this image? This is much closer to the design I am leaning towards; however, I will be using a 120v setup with 2000w element.

Thanks.
__________________
itrider is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Can someone check my Diagram? magnj Electric Brewing 50 01-16-2012 01:00 PM
RIMS Diagram? BrewinBuckeye Electric Brewing 1 03-25-2011 08:17 PM
Need help with my electrical diagram!!! Gabrew Electric Brewing 208 03-05-2011 01:10 AM
Why only a single gfci main supply, but no individual circuit protection??? MonkeyWrench Electric Brewing 16 11-15-2010 03:56 AM
Wiring diagram advice frank551 Electric Brewing 6 10-19-2010 01:56 PM