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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > I hacked up a P-J diagram, not sure if it will work.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:18 PM   #11
wilfonzo
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I plan on making this unit portable so I can use it as a sous vide cooker at work or elsewhere. When it is working as a sous vide cooker, there wont be any need for the PID that is only for temp, so I might as well turn it off. I guess it isn't that big of deal, I'm going to have to think about this one a bit and crunch some numbers.
The second PID will be running a LP burner in the future for the HLT, but for now it will be manual.

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Old 11-27-2012, 10:14 PM   #12
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Ok, cleaned it up a bit and got rid of two PID power switches for one main. Not sure that I wired the main correctly

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Old 11-28-2012, 02:20 AM   #13
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You still don't need power to pins 1 and 14 on the right PID - that's for alarm signaling.

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Old 11-28-2012, 03:17 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadNewsBrewery
You still don't need power to pins 1 and 14 on the right PID - that's for alarm signaling.
What about the left PID is that correct? Based on your previous comments my understanding is that pin 13 should be power in and 1 and 14 should come out and go to the buzzer.

Does it matter where the alarm on/off switch is wired in? Should it be on the way to the buzzer from 1 and 14 or before the PID gets signal from pin 13?

Corey
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:20 AM   #15
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OK, I see. Fixed?

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Old 11-28-2012, 10:33 AM   #16
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I don't know enough about PIDs to know if it matters but P-J always draws his alarm buzzer hookup different. Check out some of his other drawings, like his one for my CP, to see what I mean.

For the lazy - http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/bad...20/index2.html

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Old 11-28-2012, 11:34 AM   #17
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I see what you are saying in the diagram PJ drew for you. It seems weird cutting the power line in (to 13) with the switch instead of the lines out to the buzzer (1 and 14). I wonder if there is a difference? Does cutting the line in totally reset the alarm settings vs just cutting the power on the way out to the buzzer just make it stop screeching.

Kevin, What's your intent with the BK alarm, will you have a temp probe to the BK?

I don't anticipate using my alarm too extensively, But what I would like for it to do is mainly 2 things. The RTD will be located on the ball valve on the outport of the MLT (like kals). From there I want it to first monitor the recirc temp and buzz if it gets out of range (should never happen with PID controlled HLT and herms coil but ya never know). Secondly i want to use it to buzz when mash is brought up to sparge temp and is ready to be drained to BK. I guess lastly when it does buzz I just want to be able to flip the 2-way switch to off to stop the madness.

Are both of these achievable with the 2352 PID and will this wiring set-up make it work? (Switch before going into pin 13, and then pins 1 and 14 going out to buzzer).

Thanks,

Corey

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Old 11-28-2012, 11:59 AM   #18
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I can't really answer your first question, but it seems to work for others on here so I'm running with the way P-J drew it on mine.

For me - I will have a temperature probe in the BK as I'm using a PID to control the BK element. I can use the alarm to let me know when I get near to my temperature so I can monitor for hot-break foaming etc.

I understand what you're looking for and unfortunately can't tell you if it would or would not work. Hopefully someone else chimes in for you.
-Kevin

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Old 11-28-2012, 03:09 PM   #19
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This is the original drawing I based it off of. I just moved the left pid over and wired it the same way P-J had it.

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Old 11-28-2012, 03:36 PM   #20
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Interesting. May be worth a message to P-J, or hopefully he chimes in as to which way is better, or if it even matters.

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